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Boston as its novelists placed it, held because the names fiction used are evidence of the names people used.","text_extract":"nut \n\n\ntttfonal \n\n\na \n\n\n.it \n\n\nili>i  II \n\n\nHi     i!  t \n\n\nffi  ifcJT' \n\n\nHffiTHl&n \n\n\nt0ton  Car \n\n\nUam \n\n\nClass  _E13l \nBook JJ \n\n\nCopyrights \n\n\n\"J3^ \n\n\nCOPYRIGHT  DEPOSIT. \n\n\nFICTIONAL    RAMBLES    IN    AND \nABOUT    BOSTON \n\n\nFICTIONAL  RAMBLES \n\nin  &  about \n\nBy \n\njfranccs  Weston  Carrutf)  ft \n\nAuthor  of  \"Those  Dale  Girls\"  \"The \nWay  of  Belinda\"  etc. \n\n\nALDI \n\n\nNEW  YORK \nft£c£Iurc,  tftyiHiptf  an&  Companp \n\nMCMII \n\n\nRY  OF \n\nNOV.  10   1902 \n\nCLASS    (X'  XXc.  No. \n\nB. 2 \n\n\nCopyright,  1902,  by \nMcClure,  Phillips  &  Company \n\n\nPublished  October,  1902,  N \n\n\nCo  ttjosc  15o0tontan0 \n\n$0y  &unt0 \n\nCl)r0f  Hamblrs  in  S^fir  City \n\n2it  affectionately  ^IngrribfD \n\n\nCONTENTS \n\nPART  I.     IN   MODERN   BOSTON     P4rv \n\n1  AGE \n\ni  Beacon  Hill  and  Street       .     .       3 \n\n11  The  West  End 21 \n\nin  The    Charles    Street    Neigh- \nbourhood      49 \n\niv   In  and  About  the  Common    .     .     61 \n\nv  A  Ramble    Round    the  Public \n\nGarden 88 \n\nvi  The   Back  Bay 109 \n\nvii  The  South  End 144 \n\nPART  II.     IN   OLD   BOSTON \n\n1   About  the  Wharves     .     .     .     .157 \n\n11  The  Heart  of  the  Old   North \n\nEnd 176 \n\nin   In  and  Around  Dock  Square   .   204 \n\nix \n\n\nCONTENTS \n\niv  State  Street  and    the   King's  page \nChapel  Neighbourhood   .     .   220 \n\nv  When  Commercial  Boston  Was \n\nResidential 245 \n\nvi  In  Tremont  Street  and  Music \n\nHali 267 \n\nPART  III.     ABOUT  BOSTON \n\n1  Cambridge  and  Lexington     .     .   283 \n\n11  Harvard 3T3 \n\nin  Westward 339 \n\niv  Toward  the  Blue  Hills        .     .   346 \n\nv  Nahant  and  Nantasket    .     .     .   365 \n\n\nLIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS \n\nPAGE \n\nLongfellow's  Grave Frontispiece \n\nThe  gilded  dome  of  the  State  House 5 \n\nThe  Old  Beacon 8 \n\nThe  Athenreum ir \n\nAn  Ancestral  Home  in  Mrs.  Moulton's  \"Miss  Eyre'\"    ...  13 \n\nTablet  marking  site  of  Hancock  House 15 \n\nThe  home  of  Mildred  Wentworth 17 \n\nThe  semi-circular  windows  of  the  Somerset  Club. — -Crawfords \n\n''American  Politician  \"        19 \n\nBeacon  Steps. — Howetts's  \"A    Woman 's  Reason\"       ....  23 \n\nMount  Vernon  Place 27 \n\n41  Mount    Vernon    Street— the  home   of    Mrs.    Harrison    Gray \n\nOtis 28 \n\n48  Mount  Vernon  Street — the  home  of  the  Coreys  ....  29 \nThe  perfect  Gothic  arch  formed  by  the  trees  that  line  both  sides \n\nof  Mount  Vernon  Street. — Helen  Reed's  \"J/tss  Theodora  \"  31 \n\nNo.  59  Mount  Vernon  Street 35 \n\nA  row  of  old  houses  in  Mount  Vernon  Street 39 \n\n82  Mount  Vernon  Street — the  home  of  the  Randolphs    ...  41 \n\nHome  of  Rose  Jenness  in  \"Two  Bites  at  a  Cherry\"  ...  42 \nI.ouisburg  Square — former  homes  of    Louisa    Alcott  and   Mr. \n\nHowells        43 \n\n73  Pinckney  Street — the  home  of  the  Lacys       ......  46 \n\nAfrican  Methodist  Church,  68  Charles  Street    ...           .     .  50 \n\nThe  Church  of  the  Advent  and  Clergy  House,  Brimmer  Street.  51 \n\nCharles  Street 54 \n\nxi \n\n\nLIST       OF       ILLUSTRATIONS \n\nPAGE \n\nThe  Telescope  in  the  Mall 63 \n\nTicknor  Mansion.     Union  Club.     Park  Street  Church.     Mall  65 \n\nThe  Common ...  69 \n\nThe  Long  Path 73 \n\nThe  Pond  in  the  Hollow        77 \n\nCows  on  the  Common Si \n\nThe  Liberty  Tree 85 \n\nThe  Public  Garden 91 \n\nThe  Statue  of  Washington,  near  Commonwealth  Avenue      .      .  96 \n\nVenus  Fountain  in  the  Public  Garden 97 \n\nThe  Swan  Boats 99 \n\nThe  Arlington  Street  Church  from  under  the  Kilmarnock  wil- \nlow by  the  pond  in  the  Public  Garden     103 \n\n\\n  Apothecary's  Window,  Mentioned  in  James's  \"Bostonians\"  105 \n\nThe  Home  of  Mrs.  Mesh  in  Arlington  Street 107 \n\nHome  of  Mrs.  Adams  (\"Truth  Dexter\")  in  Beacon  Street  .     .  10S \n\nThe  Harvard  Bridge — part  of  the  Back  Bay Ill \n\n296  Beacon  Street  (The  Oval   Doorway),   the  home  of   \"  The \n\nAutocrat.\"     302,  the  home  of  Mr.  Howells 120 \n\nMarlborough  Street 122 \n\nMrs.  Rangeley's  house   on  Marlborough  Street. — Arlo  Bates s \n\n\"  The  Puritans\" 123 \n\nThe  Home  of  the  Maxwells  .     .           124 \n\nThe  Home  of  the  Chauncey  Wilsons 125 \n\nThe  Avenue  through  the  Park 126 \n\nThe  St.  Botolph  Club — No.   2  Newbury  Street 127 \n\n233  Clarendon  Street — the  home  of  the  late  Bishop  Brooks  128 \n\nTrinity  Church 129 \n\nInterior  Trinity  Church    . 133 \n\nThe  Library        137 \n\nThe  Museum 139 \n\nxii \n\n\nLIST       OF       ILLUSTRATIONS \n\nPAGE \n\nThe  latter-day  edition  of  the  historic  <  >ld   South  Church      .      .  141 \n\nConcord  Square 145 \n\n28    Rutland    Square — the    home    of     Mrs.     Louise     Chandler \n\nMoulton 152 \n\nThe  Shipping  at  the  foot  of  State  Street 159 \n\nThe  inspiration  of  a  bit  of  Hawthorne  allegory 164 \n\nThe  old  Salt   House,  where  Hawthorne  wrote  \"  The  Scarlet \n\nLetter\" ...  167 \n\nThe  Lieutenant-Governor's  elegant  mansion 178 \n\nFrankland's  house 182 \n\nThe  Home  of  Paul  Revere 1S3 \n\nSalutation  Alley 186 \n\nThe  Old   North  Church 189 \n\nHome  of  the  M'Murtaghs. — Stimsoris  \"Pirate  Gold\"    .     .      .  193 \n\nThe  house  on  Hull  Street,  where  Gage  is  said  to  have  planned \n\nthe  Battle  of  Bunker  Hill 194 \n\nCopp's  Hill  Burying  Ground 195 \n\nThe  spot  from  which  Lionel  Lincoln    watched  the  battle  of \n\nBunker  Hill 199 \n\nThe  House  of  John  Tileston  in  Bynner's  \"  Zachary  Phips\"     .  201 \n\nUnion  (Boston)  Stone 206 \n\nFaneuil  Hall 207 \n\nThe  old  Brasier  Inn 210 \n\nA  bookshop  in  Cornhill 211 \n\nThe  Old  State  House 221 \n\nThe  Old  Colony  Bank 226 \n\nBurying-ground  by  King  Charles'  Chapel 231 \n\nKings  Chapel .  235 \n\nInterior  of  King's  Chapel 239 \n\nGreenough's  Statue  of  Benjamin  Franklin — City  Hall      .     .     .  242 \n\nThe  Corner  Bookstore 243 \n\nxiii \n\n\nLIST       OF       ILLUSTRATIONS \n\nPAGE \n\nOld  South  Church 259 \n\nProvince  House        265 \n\nGrave  of  Benjamin  Woodbridge 270 \n\nEntrance  to  the  Music  Hall 275 \n\nMansion  at  Medford 2S7 \n\nChrist  Church  Graveyard 291 \n\nBirthplace  of  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes 295 \n\nWashington  Elm 298 \n\nThe  Longfellow  Mansion 299 \n\nElmwood 303 \n\nThe  Road  to  Concord 307 \n\nMonroe  Tavern — Lexington 308 \n\nLexington  Common 310 \n\nThe  Lexington  Minute  Man 311 \n\nThe  Johnston  Memorial  Gate  and  Harvard  Hall 317 \n\nThe  College  Yard 321 \n\nThe  Library        325 \n\nHolworthy 329 \n\nMemorial  Hall 335 \n\nCountry  Club,  Brookline .     .  342 \n\nThe  Upper  Charles  River 345 \n\nThe  Governor  Shirley  Mansion 351 \n\nJamaica  Pond 354 \n\nA  Roxbury  Garden 355 \n\nThe  Quincy-Butler  Mansion 359 \n\nThe  Stream. — Stimsoti 's  \" King  Noanett\" 363 \n\nThe  Cliff. — Stimsoti 's  \" Pirate  Gold\" 366 \n\nPulpit  Rock,  Nahant 369 \n\nNantasket  Beach 375 \n\n\nINTRODUCTORY \n\n\"  Come,  seek  the  air  ;  some  pictures  we  may  gain \nWhose  passing  shadows  shall  not  be  in  vain.\" \n\nHolmes. \n\nAWORLD  of  fascinating  romance  un- \nfolds itself  to  those  who  seek  to  iden- \ntify the  homes  and  haunts  of  the \ncharacters  in  Boston  fiction.  If,  as  the  great \ndramatist  has  told  us,  it  is  the  part  of  the  po- \net's genius  to  give  to  airy  nothings  a  local \nhabitation  and  a  name,  it  may  interest  the  ad- \nmirer and  follower  of  the  makers  of  fiction  to \ndevote  himself  to  searching  out  and  giving- \npermanence  to  persons  and  localities  which, \nthough  in  sober  fact  they  never  had  any  exist- \nence, yet  have  been  and  always  will  be  as  real \nas  any  historic  characters  of  the  past ;  forming \na  drama  of  life  such  as  is  woven  by  the  artist \n\n\nINTRODUCTORY \n\nin  colours  so  vivid  and  impressive  that  the  ac- \ntors become  a  part  of  ourselves — their  haunts \nand  habitations  to  be  individualized,  identified \nand  held  in  tender  remembrance. \n\nTo  the  traveler  the  Old  World  owes  its  at- \ntractiveness quite  as  much  to  the  creations  of \nShakespeare,  Scott,  Thackeray,  Dickens,  Bal- \nzac, Hugo  and  Dumas  as  to  the  princes,  states- \nmen and  soldiers  of  whose  births  and  deaths \nhistory  tells  us  with  so  much  pomp  and  preci- \nsion. It  was  said  by  an  admirer  of  Henry \nEsmond  that  the  charm  of  the  Potomac  River \nwas  not  in  the  military  associations  so  insepa- \nrably blended  with  it,  but  in  the  fact  that  on \nits  banks  Esmond  and  the  woman  who  had  so \npatiently  waited  for  his  wooing  had  established \nthemselves  ;  linking  the  noble  Virginia  stream \nwith  the  memories  of  the  Stuarts  and  Addison, \nwith  the  English  meadows  and  with  the  cam- \npaigns of  Marlborough.  Gibraltar's  towering \nmight  impressed  a  devotee  of  Marryat  not  as \nbeing  England's  gateway  fortress  of  the  Med- \niterranean, held  more  than  once  against  a  world \n\n\nINTRODUCTORY \n\nin  arms,  but  as  the  scene  of  the  exploits  of  Mr. \nMidshipman  Easy  and  the  discomfiture  of  the \nsurly  boatswain.  Every  year  a  throng  of  tour- \nists wander  through  the  land  of  Evangeline \nasking  persons  native  to  the  soil  to  point  out \nlocalities  whose  names,  as  a  rule,  mean  nothing \nto  them  who  are  questioned,  unless,  perchance, \nthey  may  have  read  Longfellow's  immortal \npoem.  Robinson  Crusoe's  island  has  been  ex- \nplored as  thoroughly  as  for  buried  treasure  — \nthe  seekers  looking  not  for  gold  or  iewels,  but \nto  identify  the  spring,  the  cave,  or  the  spot  on \nthe  sands  where  Robinson  was  startled  by  the \nsolitary  footprint. \n\nSo  Boston  has  been  the  scene  of  much  that \nwill  live  in  American  fiction  ;  but  it  ma)'  be \ndoubted  if  it  has  yet  fulfilled  all  that  may  be \nrequired  of  it  by  the  poet  or  novelist.  For \nmany  years  it  was  the  town  not  only  of  New \nEngland,  but  of  North  America,  leading  polit- \nically and  commercially  as  well  as  intellect- \nually, but  the  men  who  gave  it  world-wide \nfame    in    literature  were    not    writing  fiction. \n\n\nINTRODUCTORY \n\n\nPuritan  theology  stamps  the  first  Boston  lit- \nerature which,  gradually  showing  a  tendency \ntoward  broader  development,  took  the  form  of \nessays  and  poetry.  About  1830  Nathaniel  P. \nWillis,  Boston  bred  but  not  born,  was  the  fore- \nmost youne  American  writer.  \"  Longfellow \nwas  not  yet  conspicuous,\"  says  Holmes.  \"  Lo- \nwell was  a  schoolboy.  Emerson  was  unheard \nof.  Whittier  was  beginning  to  make  his  way \nagainst  the  writers  with  better  educational  ad- \nvantages whom  he  was  destined  to  outdo  and \noutlive.  ...  If  the  reader  wishes  to  see  the \nbubbles  of  reputation  that  were  floating,  some \nof  them  gay  with  prismatic  colours,  half  a  cen- \ntury ago,  he  will  find  in  the  pages  of  a  small \nvolume  entitled  Truth,  A  Gift  For  Scrib- \nblers, a  long  catalogue  of  celebrities  he  never \nheard  of.\" \n\nOf  all  the  brilliant  classic-literature-making \ngroup  which  later  centered  about  Emerson  and \nLongfellow,  only  Hawthorne  and  Holmes \nstrayed  into  the  realms  of  fiction.  James  Rus- \nsell Lowell,  perhaps,  should  be  included,  for  he \n\n\nINTRODUCTORY \n\npublished  a  novel  called  My  First  Client  which \nmet  with  a  dubious  fate  and  long  ago  disap- \npeared.     Those  were   the  days  when   \"  Liter- \nature in  Boston,\"  says  Mr.  Howells,   \"was  so \nrespectable  and  often  of  so  high  a  lineage  that \nto  be  a  poet  was  not  only  to  be  good  society, \nbut  almost  to  be  good  family.\"     As  poet  and \nessayist,  Holmes,  \"the  last  leaf  upon  the  tree,\" \nwrote  of  the  Boston  which  he  knew  and  loved \nwith  a  deeper  sense  of  kinship   and  affection \nthan     any    of    his     contemporaries.      But    the \nscenes  of  his  fiction  are   with    one    exception \naway  from  the  city  by  him  clubbed  \"  the  Hub.\" \nThis  exception  is   TJie  Guardian  Angel — one \nof  what  an  old    lady    called    his    \"medicated \nnovels,\"  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  author. \nIn  spite  of  all  that  novelists  have  had  to  say \nabout  Boston,  to  Mr.  Arlo  Bates  belono-s  the \n\no \n\ndistinction  of  having  presented  it  in  kaleido- \nscopic form.  The  many-sidedness  of  the  town \nand  the  marked  characteristics  of  its  people \nwhich  stamp  them  Bostonese  the  world  over \npervade   his    novels,    giving    them   an   intense \n\n\nINTRODUCTORY \n\nlocalism  which  is  never  provincialism.  He \nstrikes  the  true  key  in  presenting  it  on  its \nsesthetical,  ethical,  fashionable,  practical  and \nreligious  sides  —  the  evolution  of  modern \nBoston  emerging  from  pro-Puritanism.  This, \nin  a  more  or  less  degree,  is  the  Boston  we  find \nin  the  pages  of  such  fiction  as  Truth  Dexter, \nThe  Sentimentalists,  Margaret  Warrener,  The \nTurn  of  the  Road,  Miss  Brooks,  Ballantyne \nand  Her  Boston  Experiences.  Mr.  Howells,  a \ndominant  writer  of  Boston  fiction,  saturating \nhis  pages  with  its  business,  social  and  intel- \nlectual atmosphere,  personifies  varied  types, \nwhich,  photographic  as  they  are,  fail  to  present \ncertain  phases  of  the  genuine  Bostonese.  This \nmay  be  because  of  his  tendency  to  draw  \"  a \nBostonian,  not  the  Bostonian,\"  which  was  Dr. \nHolmes's  way  of  putting  it  in  referring  to  one \nof  his  characters.  The  Bostonians  was  chosen \nby  Henry  James  as  the  title  for  a  novel  in \nwhich  he  finds  ample  space  for  elaborate  and \nbrilliant  analysis  of  women  of  the  class  of \nOlive  Chancellor,  amoncr  whom  the  movement \n\n\nINTRODUCTORY \n\nfor  the  emancipation  of  their  sex  was  rampant ; \nother  and  equally  strenuous  types  appear  in \nthe  pages  of  his  New  England  Winter.  A \nbrilliant  literary  and  legal  light  of  Boston, \nJudge  Robert  Grant,  has  purposely  refrained, \nhe  says,  from  giving  his  novels  a  Boston  set- \nting, and  one  looks  in  vain  through  his  fiction \nfor  the  streets  and  monuments  of  his  native \ncity.  Politically,  Mr.  Crawford  with  An \nAmerican  Politician  and  Mr.  Wainwright \nwith  A  Child  of  the  Century  have  the  field \npretty  much  to  themselves.  Delightful  and \nthoroughly  genuine  are  the  Bostonians  of  Dr. \nEdward  Everett  Hale  and  Mrs.  Louise  Chand- \nler Moulton,  while  we  turn  to  Mrs.  Harrison \nGray  Otis's  The  Barclays  of  Boston  for  a  pic- \nture of  fashionable  life  in  the  Hub  in  the \nfifties.  Other  phases  of  this  and  an  earlier \nperiod  are  depicted  in  Mrs.  A.  D.  T.  Whitney's \nfiction  and  in  such  novels  as  Mr.  Stimson's \nPirate  Gold,  Miss  Cummins's  The  Lamplight- \ner, and  Mr.  Trowbridge's  Martin  Merrivale. \nThe   old  colonial   town,    rich    in    history    and \n\n\nINTRODUCTORY \n\ntraditions,  strongly  appealed  as  a  background \nfor  romance  to  Hawthorne,  Cooper,  Bynner \nand  Lydia  Child. \n\nWriters  of  Boston  fiction  have  as  a  rule \nmade  use  of  the  actual  street  nomenclature, \nwhich  greatly  aids  the  rambler  to  discover  in \nfact  or  conjure  up  in  imagination  real  or  ficti- \ntious haunts  and  habitations.  Much  of  this \nnomenclature  is  picturesque  and  interesting  as \nreminiscent  of  the  city's  history.  In  that  part \nof  the  town  known  as  the  North  End  the \ncrooked,  narrow,  winding  streets  such  as  Fleet, \nMoon,  Garden  Court,  Prince,  and  Hanover  are \nsuggestive  of  the  old  London  so  dear  to  the \nheart  of  the  early  colonists.  Every  Bostonian \nknows  that  Beacon  Hill  and  street  take  their \nname  from  the  old  beacon  erected  in  1634  on \nthe  summit  of  the  hill  ;  that  Tremont  Street \nis  from  Traemount  or  Tri-Mountain  which  the \nsettlement  was  first  called  ;  that  Shawmut  Av- \nenue gets  its  name  from  the  peninsula.  More \nmodern  is  the  broad  avenue  named  for  the  Com- \nmonwealth  and   running   across   it   the  street \n\n\nINTRODUCTORY \n\nnamed  for  the  State.  The  great  Copley  and  the \nlesser  Allston  are  suggestive  of  the  art  world; \nBlackstone,  Franklin,  and  Boylston  are  remem- \nbered while  now  and  then  the  name  of  a  na- \ntional hero  appears  on  the  lamp-posts,  as  in \nthe  recent  instance  of  Dewey  Square. \n\n\nIN    MODERN    BOSTON \n\n\nI.   BEACON    HILL  AND   STREET \n\nTR  U  E  to  the  traditions  of  the  Bostonese, \nall  the  fiction  writers  of  the  city  pay \ntheir  tribute  to  the  State  House  with \nits  splendid  gilded  dome,  which  stands  on  the \nsummit  of  Beacon  Hill. \n\nAround  the  green,  in  morning  light, \nThe  spired  and palaced  summits  blaze, \n\nAnd,  sunlike,  from  her  Beacon  height \nThe  dome-crowned  city  sfireads  her  rays. \n\n\"  High  in  the  air,  poised  in  the  right  place, \nover  everything  that  clustered  below,  the  most \nfelicitous  object  in  Boston  —  the  gilded  dome  of \nthe  State  House,\"  writes  Henry  James  in \nA  New  England  Winter.  Mrs.  Campbell's  Bal- \nlantyne,  in  her  novel  of  that  name,  returning \nto  Boston  from  the  west,  stretched  his  arms  to \n\n3 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nthe  Sfilded  dome,  as  if  he  would  embrace  it  and \nall  Boston  at  once.  And  the  Autocrat's  most \ncelebrated  saying  is,  \"  Boston  State  House  is \nthe  hub  of  the  solar  system.  You  couldn't  pry \nthat  out  of  a  Boston  man  if  you  had  the  tire  of \nall  creation  straightened  out  for  a  crowbar.\" \nAgain  and  again  he  lovingly  reverts  to  it. \n\"  Boston,\"  at  another  time  he  writes,  \"  has  glor- \nified her  State  House  and  herself  at  the  expense \nof  a  few  sheets  of  gold-leaf  laid  on  the  dome, \nwhich  shines  like  a  sun  in  the  eyes  of  her  citi- \nzens, and  like  a  star  in  those  of  the  approach- \ning traveller.\" \n\nOpposite  the  State  House  steps  the  fictional \nrambler  finds  the  impressive  Shaw  monument \nwhere  Mr.  Pier's  vacillating  hero  of  The  Senti- \nmentalists paused  to  ponder  on  the  contrast  of \nthe  fine  young  soldier's  life  with  his.  He  had \ncome  up  to  the  gray  marble  slab,  says  the \nauthor,  rising  from  the  ed<re  of  the  Common. \n\"  On  the  other  side  of  it  was  the  bas-relief  in \nbronze  of  Robert  Shaw,  leading  his  coloured \nmen.      Vernon  had  passed  the  memorial  with- \n\n4 \n\n\n\"  High  in  the  air,  poised  in  the  right  place,  over  everything  that \nclustered  below,  the  most  felicitous  object  in  Boston — the  gilded \ndome  of  the  State  House.\" — Henry  James's  \"  .V<t.'  England \nWinter\" \n\n\"lie  stretched  his  arms  to  the  gilded  dome  as  if  he  wouid  em- \nbrace it  and  all  Boston  at  once.\" — Helen  Campbell's  \"Ballantyne.\" \n\n\nI   \\       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nout  raising  his  eyes,  but  now  as  he  stood  at  a \ndistance,  with  only  a  glimpse  of  the  back  of  the \nmonument,  the  form  and  features  of  the  un- \nfaltering young  soldier  were  outlined  in  his \nmind,  with  the  thought,  '  And  he  was  not  as \nold  as  I  when  he  died.' ' \n\nOn  the  eastern  side  of  the  State  House  has \nbeen  erected  a  shaft  to  mark  the  site  of  the  old \nbeacon  which  first  threw  its  light  across  the  ad- \njacent waters. \n\nOne  stately  summit  from  its  s/iaft  shall  pour \nIts  deep  red  blaze  along  the  darkened  shore  ; \nEmblem  of  thought ,  that,  kindling  far  and  wide, \nIn  danger's  night  shall  be  a  nation's  guide, \n\nsings  the  poet  Holmes  in  A  Rhymed  Lesson. \nThe  stately  summit  was  frequently  climbed  by \nthe  redcoats  of  Cooper's  Lionel  Lincoln  for  a \nbetter  viewof  the  doings  of  the  town.  Here  the \nscene  of  the  novel  opens  in  April,  1775,  with  a \nlarge  group  of  spectators  spreading  from  its \nconical  summit  far  down  the  eastern  declivity, \nall  gazing  intently  on  a  distant  sail  making \ntoward  the  harbour.    Under  the  beacon,  beside \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nthe  tall  post  that  supported  the  grate,  Ralph, \n\n\n\"  One  stately  summit  from  its  shaft  shall  pour \nIts  deep  red  blaze  along  the  darkened  shore  ; \nEmblem  of  thought,  that,  kindling  far  and  wide. \nIn  danger's  night  shall  be  a  nation's  guide.\" — Holmes. \n\nechoed  by  Job,  reproached  Major  Lincoln  for \nhis  loyalty  to  the  King's  cause.  Down  its  steep \ndecline,  in  their  childhood,  Lincoln's  cousins, \nCecil  and  Acmes,  many  a  time  went  coasting-. \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nAt  the  northeast  corner  of  Beacon  Street, \nacross  from  the  State  House,  in  a  house  recentlv \ntorn  down,  lived  the  hero  of  a  Hawthorne  ro- \nmance entitled  My  Kins/nan,  Major  Molineux. \nThis  tale  is  woven  about  a  zealous  Boston  pa- \ntriot named  Molineux  who  died  in  1774,  and \na  rather  amusing  light  is  thrown  upon  Haw- \nthorne's story  of  him  by  a  contemporary  writer, \nwho*  says  :  \"It  is  a  curious  irony  of  fate  that \nMajor  Molineux  should  have  a  false  place  in \nliterature  at  the  hands  of  both  Longfellow  and \nHawthorne.  The  despite  done  to  his  memory \nby  the  former  is  less  serious  than  that  of  the \nlatter.  In  the  Tales  of  a  Wayside  Inn  in  the \nprelude,  the  poet  writes  of  the  famous  hostelry  : \n\nAnd  flashing  on  the  window  pane, \nEmblazoned  with  its  light  and  shade, \nThe  jovial  rhymes  that  still  remain, \nWrit  near  a  century  ago \nBy  the  great  Major  Molineux, \nW  hom  Hawthorne  has  /in mortal  made. \n\nIt  is  not  needed  to  know  the  character  and  po- \nsition of  the  'great  Major'  to  see  that  the \n'jovial  rhymes'  were  not  written  by  him  but  by \n\n*  Bates's  Writing  Masters  before  the  Revolution. \n\n9 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nhis  son,  who  signed  his  name  to  them  on  the \npane.     These  are  the  rhymes  : \n\nWhat  do  you  think \nHere  is  good  drink \nPerhaps  you  may  not  know  it. \nIf  not  in  haste \nDo  stop  and  taste \nYou  merry  folks  will  short'  it. \nBoston,  24th  June,  1774, \n\nWilliam  Molineaux,  Jr. \n\nNot  long  after  William  Junior  was  roughly \nhandled  in  an  altercation  with  some  of  the \nWelsh  troops.  The  sentiments  of  the  family \nwere  well  known  to  the  soldiers.  Longfellow \nsays  :  '  Whom  Hawthorne  has  immortal  made.' \nIf  the  reader  will  turn  to  A  Snow  Image  and \nOther  Twice  Told  Tales,  it  will  be  seen  that \nthe  kind  of  immortality  given  the  '  great  Major  ' \nby  Hawthorne  is  of  doubtful  value  ;  in  short, \nit  completely  reverses  his  character  and  sends \nhim  down  to  posterity  as  a  hated  Tory,  tarred \nand  feathered  by  outraged  neighbours.  At  the \nculmination  of  his  story  Hawthorne  writes, \n1  Right  before  Robin's  eyes  was  an  uncovered \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\ncart.     There  the  torches  blazed  brightest,  there \nthe  moon  shone  out  like  day,  and  there  in  tar \n\n\n\"  When  she  came  to  the  Athenaeum,  she  was \nso  tired  that  she  decided  to  take  refuge  beneath \nits  friendly  shelter.\" — Eliza  OrneWhiie's  \"Miss \nBrooks.\"  ' \n\n\nand  feather)-  dignity  sat  his  kinsman,   Major \nMolineux.'  \"    All  of  which  may  be  resented  by \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nthe  historian  ;  but  fiction   is  not  fact  and  the \ncharm  of  Hawthorne  lies  in  his  romancing. \n\nEast  of  the  site  of  the  Molineux  house  is  the \nHotel  Bellevue,  where  for  many  years  Louisa \nM.  Alcott  stayed  when  she  came  down  from \nConcord.  Opposite  it  stands  the  old  Ath- \nenaeum, soon  to  be  removed  to  the  Back  Bay, \nbut  on  its  present  site  a  landmark  and  distinc- \ntive Boston  institution.  This  aristocratic  li- \nbrary has  been  frequented  by  many  characters \nin  the  fiction  of  Boston.  Mrs.  Harrison  Gray \nOtis  tells  us  that  old  Mr.  Edgerton  daily  read \nthe  newspapers  there ;  Henry  James's  Mrs. \nDaintry  (A  New  England  Winter)  made,  re- \nmarkably free  use  of  it  ;  two  of  his  Bostonians, \nOlive  and  Verena,  in  pursuit  of  their  studies, \nhad  innumerable  big  books  from  it  ;  in  HitJi- \nerto,  Mrs.  Whitney's  Hope  Devine  was  a  little \nbit  shocked  at  standing  face  to  face  with \nsome  of  its  statuary,  particularly  the  Yenuses, \nand  had  been  half  afraid  of  the  Laocoon.  Ja- \nnet Brooks  (Miss  Brooks),  Mary's  younger \nsister,     took     shelter     in     its    vestibule    on    a \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nstorm)-    day,    and    to    her    infinite    relief    and \n\n\n\"  Nan  lived  in  an  ancestral  home  where  British  officers  had \ndanced  stately  minuets  when  Massachusetts  was  a  colony.\" — Mrs. \nLouise  Chandler  Moultoris  \"Miss  Eyre\" \n\npleasure  was   there  discovered  later  by  John \nGraham. \n\n13 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nIn  colonial  times  and  until  1863  there  stood \njust  west  of  the  State  House,  in  Beacon  Street, \nthe  Hancock  mansion,  than  which,  as  all  who \nrecall  it  will  testify,  there  was  never  a  more \nstately  or  picturesque  house.  It  was  sur- \nrounded by  a  beautiful  garden,  and  many  a \nBostonian  can  yet  sniff  the  delicious  fragrance \nof  the  lilacs  which  clustered  about  the  door \nand  over  the  wall,  perfuming  the  whole  neigh- \nbourhood in  the  spring.  Its  owner,  Hancock, \nits  traditions  and  associations  are  richly  histor- \nical, and  it  is  not  without  fictional  interest  as \nwell.  Hancock  appears  in  the  pages  of  Cham- \nbers's Cardigan,  where  the  hero  thus  describes \nhim  :  \"He  was  young,  handsome,  decidedly \nvain, though  quite  free  from  affectation  of  speech \nor  gesture.  .  .  .  He  wore  an  apple-green  coat, \nwhite  silk  stockings,  very  large  silver  buckles \non  his  pumps,  small-clothes  of  silver-net,  tied \nat  the  knees  with  pea-green  ribbons,  which  fell \nto  his  ankles,  and  much  expensive  lace  at  his \nthroat  and  cuffs.\" \n\nIt  is  probable  that  the  Hancock  House  was \n\n\nI  N \n\n\nAND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\n\nthe  one  Mrs.  Harrison  Gray  Otis  had  in  mind \nin  picturing  Mr.  Edgerton's  home  in  The  Bar- \n\n\n\"We  turn  away  from  the  old  mansion  so  easily  conjured  up  by \nthe  imagination  and  see  in  reality  on  a  low  iron  fence,  a  tablet  which \nmarks  the  site  upon  which  it  stood.\" \n\nclays  of  Boston.    Calling  it  the  Amory  mansion \nin  Miss  Eyre,  Mrs.  Louise  Chandler  Moulton \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nalso  uses  it  as  a  setting-  for  her  Nan  Amory, \nwho  \"  lived  in  an  ancestral  home  where  Brit- \nish officers  had  danced  stately  minuets  when \nMassachusetts  was  a  colony.\"  Nan  is  intro- \nduced to  us  in  the  thick  of  Theosophical  win- \nter. \"  It  always  is  the  something  winter  in \nthat  wonderful  city,\"  says  Mrs.  Moulton,  \"but \nperhaps  nothing  else  had  ever  taken  hold  of  it \nas  did  Theosophy.  If  you  went  out  to  drink \nfive-o'clock  tea  and  shake  hands  with  your \nneighbours,  you  found  the  company  broken  up \ninto  groups,  and  in  the  centre  of  each  one \nsome  eloquent  woman  discoursing  of  reincar- \nnation, and  Karma,  and  Devachan.\"  Reluct- \nantly we  turn  away  from  the  old  mansion,  so \neasily  conjured  up  by  the  imagination,  and  see \nin  reality  on  a  low  iron  fence  a  tablet  which \nmarks  the  site  upon  which  it  stood. \n\nA  few  steps  up  the  street,  in  a  house  now \noccupied  by  Dr.  Paul,  we  can  imagine  dear  lit- \ntle Mildred  Wentworth  (T.  B.  Aldrich's  A \nChristmas  Phantasy)  in  her  blue  room  over- \nlooking the  Common,  having  her  deliciously \n\n16 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nfantastic  day-dreams  in   the  midst  of  her  new \nChristmas  toys.    Farther  down  the  hill,  at  No. \n\n\n\"  In  her  blue  room  overlooking  the  Common \nwas  little  Mildred  Wentworth  in  the  midst  of  her \nChristmas  toys.\" — T.  B.  Aldrich's  \"Christmas \nFantasy.\" \n\n40,  is  the  stoop  where  Margaret  Allston  had \none  of  the  first  of  Her  Boston  Experiences, \nand  which  house,  she  says,  is  in  the  one  block \n\n17 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nin  that  locality  where  certain  families  honour- \nably continue  their  ancestral  line. \n\nIn  this  part  of  Beacon  Street  lived  May \nCalthorpe,  that  diverting  young-  woman  in \nMr.  Bates's  Love  In  a  Cloud.  \"  The  dwell- \ning was  rather  a  gloomy  nest  for  so  bright  a \nbird  as  May.  Respectability  of  the  most  aus- \ntere New  England  type  pervaded  the  big \ndrawing-room.  The  heavy  old  furniture  was \nas  ugly  as  original  sin,  and  the  pictures  might \nhave  ministered  to  the  Puritan  hatred  for  art. \nLittle  was  changed  from  the  days  when  May's \ngrandparents  had  furnished  their  abode  ac- \ncording to  the  most  approved  repulsiveness  of \ntheir  time.  Only  the  brightness  of  the  warm \nApril  sun  shining  in  at  the  windows,  and  a  big \nbunch  of  dark  red  roses  in  a  crystal  jug,  light- \nened the  formality  of  the  stately  apartment.\" \n\nIn  the  middle  of  this  block  is  the  vine-cov- \nered, ultra-exclusive  Somerset  Club,  where \nWarren  Hartwell  put  in  half  his  days  before \nhe  met  Margaret  Allston.  It  was  also  the \nrendezvous   of    Marion   Crawford's  American \n\n\n?  w \n\n\no \n\n!» \n\nR \n\nc \n\n— \n\nrt \n\n— \n\n<L> \n\n|H \n\n■< \n\n.Q \n\nc \n\n= \n\n-^ \n\no \n\nif) \n\nt— 1 \n\nw. \n\ntn \n\n<u \n\nrt \n\nin \n\nV \n\n- \n\n■s \n\n« \n\n„ \n\no \n\n*! \n\nE \n\n~ \n\n^ \n\no \n\nS \n\nt>£ \n\nO \n\ng \n\n_R \n\n.J \n\n^■£ \n\n\"^ \n\nbf \n\n•« \n\nQJ \n\nR  - \n\n•3 \n\nU \n\nC \n\n- \n\nR \n\n„ \n\nO \n\nrt \n\nR \nrt \n\n\"g \n\nifl \n\nO \n\nbjo \n\ng \n\ni„ \n\nV \n\nR \n\n^ \n\nO \n\ng \n\n~ \n\n\"<U \n\n■^ \n\n— \n\nR \n\nC \n\n^ \n\n5 \n\n.0 \n\n^ \n\n2 \n\nc \n\n_U; \n\nJ; \n\n**\" \n\n«1 \n\nM \n\n\"3 \n\ns \n\nX \n\nrt \n\ns \n\n0> \n\n■J3 \n\n.  ^ \n\n? \n\n^ \n\n< \n\n>. \n\n1- \n\n\\ \n\nS> \n\na \n\nc« \n\n0 \n\nJ \n\n3 \n\n: \n\n& \n\nu \n\n«J \n\nR \n\n| \n\n- \n\n-. \n\n•,/ \n\nrt \n\n:    c  c  -   js \n\n\nf    0 \n\n\nU \n\n\n19 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nPolitician  and  his  friends,  one  of  whom,  Van- \ncouver, was  particularly  fond  of  standing-  in \none  of  the  semi-circular  windows  and  watching \nthe  passers-by.  At  the  corner  below  is  the \nsmaller  Puritan  Club,  likewise  a  haunt  of \nWarren  Hartwell's  ;  and  of  Vernon  Kent,  one \nof  the  sentimentalists  in  Mr.  Pier's  novel  of \nthat  name.  The  atmosphere  of  this  locality \nis  sympathetically  expressed  by  the  heroine  of \nHer  Boston  Experiences,  who  says  she  \"  al- \nways peers  around  for  a  fleeting  glance  of \nPriscillas,  John  Aldens,  or  other  far-away  peo- \nple who  rightfully  belong  among  those  quaint \nold  houses,  still  breathing  out  history  and  ro- \nmance.\" \n\nII.    THE    WEST    END \n\nFOR  the  western  and  northern  slopes  of \nBeacon    Hill    many    novelists    have  a \nstrong  predilection,  notably  Mr.  How- \nells,  who,  particularly  on  the  northern   side  of \nthe  hill,  finds  in  the  homely  life  of  the  unfash- \nionable  residents  ample  material   for  the  por- \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ntrayal  of  certain  types  of  Bostonians  which  he \npresents  to  us  with  such  fidelity.  These  are \n\"those  old-fashioned  thoroughfares  at  the  West \nEnd  of  Boston  which  are  now  almost  wholly \nabandoned  to  boarding-houses  of  the  poorer \nclasses.  Yet  they  are  charming  streets,\"  and \nin  them  lived  the  Hallecks,  the  Hubbards  (A \nModern  Instance),  Lemuel  Barker  {The  Min- \nuter s  Charge),  Dr.  Olney,  Rhoda  Aldgate \nand  Mrs.  Meredith  (An  Imperative  Duty), \nand  many  other  of  Mr.  Howells's  fictitious  char- \nacters. Mrs.  A.  D.  T.  Whitney,  too,  is  partial \nto  this  locality  with  its  \"  streets  of  charming \nhouses  without  any  modern  improvements  over \nbehind  Beacon  Hill,  and  beyond  the  State \nHouse.  In  her  recent  story,  Miss  Theodora, \nHelen  Leah  Reed  gives  us  a  delightful  series \nof  pictures  of  the  old  West  End. \n\nNumber  9  Beacon  Steps  (Howells's  A  Wo- \nman's Reason)  is  given  as  the  residence  of \nJoshua  Harkness  and  his  daughter  Helen. \n\"  The  house  was  rather  old-fashioned,  and  it \nwas   not  furnished   in   the  latest  taste,  but   it \n\n\n\"BEACON    STEPS.\" — HOWELLS's    \"a    woman's    REASON.\" \n\n\"  Streets  of  charming  houses  over  behind  Beacon  Hill  and  beyond \nthe  state  House.\" — Mrs.  A.  /).   T.    Whitney's  '■'Hitherto\" \n\n\n-3 \n\n\nIN       AND       A  B  O  U  T       BOSTON \n\nmade  the  appeal  with  which  things  out  of  date \nor  passing-  out  of  date  touch  the  heart.\"  Bea- \ncon Steps  is  not  Beacon  Street,  says  Mr. \nHowells  in  the  novel,  \"  but  it  is  of  like  blame- \nless social  tradition.\" \n\nAs  an  actual  street  it  never  had  any  exist- \nence in  fact,  but  the  name  was  suggested  to \nMr.  Howells  by  a  short  flight  of  steps  which \nlead  down  from  the  State  House  to  Temple \nStreet,  and  though  no  definite  house  was  in- \ntended, this  was  the  locality  he  had  in  mind. \nIn  another  of  his  novels,  A  Modern  Instance, \nhis  Clover  Street  is  in  reality  Myrtle  Street, \nwhere,  a  few  doors  from  Joy  Street,  is  the  little \nhouse  rented  by  the  Bartley  Hubbards.  \"It \nseemed  absurdly  large  to  people  who  had  been \nliving  for  the  past  seven  months  in  one  room  ; \nand  the  view  of  the  Back  Bay  from  the  little \nbow-window  of  the  front  chamber  added  all  out- \ndoors to  their  superfluous  space.\"  To  the  east \nof  them,  at  63  Hancock  Street,  is  the  boarding- \nhouse  to  which  Janet  (  Eliza  Orne  White's  Miss \nBrooks)  came  in  search  of  young  Rheinhart. \n\n25 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nPassing  down  Derne  Street  and  through \nBowdoin  Street,  we  come  to  Bulfinch  Place, \non  the  right,  called  Canary  Place  by  Mr. \nHowells,  who  finds  lodgings  there  for  the \nBartley  Hubbards  shortly  after  they  came  to \nBoston.  Here,  too,  on  the  southern  side  of \nthe  street,  is  the  Hotel  Waterson,  described \nin  The  Minister  s  Charge  as  the  St.  Albans, \nwhere  Barker  worked  in  various  capacities  un- \ntil (in  the  novel)  the  hotel  burned.  North  of \nthis,  in  Bowdoin  Square,  is  the  Revere  House, \nin  and  around  which  transpires  much  of  An \nImperative  Duty.  The  Bartley  Hubbards  also \nstopped  at  this  hotel,  where  Bartley  entered \nhis  name  on  the  register  with  a  flourish.  Bril- \nliantly lighted  Bowdoin  Square  and  the  high- \npillared  portico  of  the  Revere  House  were  also \nwonderingly  observed  on  his  wanderings  by \nBarker's  The  Minister  s  Charge.  This  hotel \nwas  one  much  patronized  by  Mr.  and  Mrs. \nHowells  during  their  residence  in  Belmont \nwhen,  attending  social  functions  or  the  theatre \nin  Boston,   they  found   it  more  convenient  to \n\n26 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nspend   the  night  in   town.      \"  Some  colour  of \nmy  prime  impressions  has  tinged  the  fictitious \n\n\n\"  That  commodious  nook  which  is  known  as \nMount  Vernon  Place.\"' — Henry  James 's  \"A  New \nEngland  Winter.'\" \n\nexperiences  of  people  in  my  books,\"  Mr.  How- \nells  says  in  his  Literary  Friends  and  Ac- \nquaintances. \n\nIf  we  now  climb  \"those  up-hill  streets  that \nconverge  to  the  State  House,\"  and  stop  at  the \n\n27 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ntop  of  the  Hill,  we  come  directly  under  the \nshadow  of  the  dome,  to  \"  that  commodious \nnook  which  is  known  as  Mt.  Vernon  Place,\"  in \n\n\n41  MOUNT  VERNON   STREET — THE  HOME  OF  MRS. \nHARRISON  GRAY  OTIS \n\n\nwhich  resided  Henry  James's  Miss  Lucretia \nDaintry  (A  New  England  Winter) — delightful \nMiss  Lucretia,  \"who  wore  her  bonnet  as  scien- \ntifically poised  as  the  dome  of  the  State  House, \nand  had  in  an  eminent  degree  the  physiog- \nnomy, the  accent,  the  costume,  the  conscience, \nand  the  little  eyeglass  of  her  native  place.\" \n\n2S \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\n\n48  MOUNT  VERNON  STREET THE  HOME  OF  THE \n\nCOREYS \n\n\"  The  whole  place  wears  an  air  of  aristocratic \nseclusion.\" — Howells's  \"Rise  of  Silas  Laphafti\" \n\n\nNorth    of    this    \"nook\"  is    Mount  Vernon \nStreet,  in  which  lived   an   astonishing-  number \n\n29 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nof  fictitious  persons,  whose  literary  creators \ngive  it  a  preference  over  Beacon  Street  as  an \naristocratic  residential  thoroughfare.  A  fine \nold  house,  Number  41,  at  the  corner  of  Joy \nStreet,  was  the  home  of  Miss  MehitableOuincy, \nwhom  we  meet  in  Mrs.  Louise  Chandler  Moul- \nton's  Miss  Eyre.  This  house  has  interest  in \nfact  as  well  as  fiction,  for  here  lived  that  bril- \nliant woman,  novelist  and  social  leader,  Mrs. \nHarrison  Gray  Otis,  who  wrote  The  Barclays \nof  Boston  there. \n\nA  few  doors  down  on  the  same  side  of  the \nstreet  is  Number  48,  the  home  of  the  Coreys \n(Howells's  The  Rise  of  Silas  Laphani).  This \nhouse  is  now  a  small  hotel  called  the  Curtis,  but \nwas  formerly  the  home  of  one  of  Mr.  Howells's \nfriends,  and  its  entrance  and  part  of  the  inter- \nior remain  as  when  he  knew  and  described  it. \nTo  many,  Bromfield  Corey  is  by  far  the  most \ndelightful  of  Mr.  Howells's  creations,  and  it  is \nwith  pleasure  that  we  meet  him  in  more  than \none  of  the  author's  books.  No  one  forgets \nthat  memorable  dinner  given  for  the  Laphams \n\n30 \n\n\nI? \n\n\n&.=< \n\n\nv \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nby  the  Coreys,  in  the  reading  of  which  we  can \nscarcely  be  made  to  believe  that  we  are  not \nactually  attending  it,  so  strong  is  Mr.  How- \nells's  realistic  touch.  Familiar  with  the  dining \nroom  we  are  keenly  interested  in  the  rest  of \nthe  house,  and  delighted  when  we  are  permit- \nted by  the  author  to  wander  into  Mr.  Corey's \nsanctum,  the  library,  where  Lemuel  Barker \n(The  Ministers  Charge)  \"found  himself \ndropped  in  the  midst  of  a  luxury  stranger  than \nthe  things  they  read  of  in  those  innumerable \nnovels.  The  dull,  rich  colours  on  the  walls, \nthe  heavily  rugged  floors  and  dark  wooded \nleathern  seats  of  the  library  where  he  read  to \nthe  old  man  ;  the  beautiful  forms  of  the  famous \nbronzes,  and  the  Italian  saints  and  martyrs  in \ntheir  baroque  or  Gothic  frames  of  dim  gold;  the \nlow  shelves  with  their  ranks  of  luxurious  bind- \nings, and  all  the  seriously  elegant  keeping \nof  the  place  flattered  him  out  of  his  strange- \nness.\" Corey,  at  this  time,  it  will  be  remem- \nbered, was  alone  at  home  while  his  family  were \nat  the  shore,  because  he  \"  would  rather  be  blind \n\n33 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nin  Boston  than  telescopic  at  Beverly  or  any \nother  summer  resort.\" \n\nLooking  down  from  the  Coreys,  we  get  a \nmost  beautiful  view  of  \"  the  perfect  Gothic \narch  formed  by  the  trees  that  line  both  sides \nof  Mount  Vernon  Street\"  (Helen  Reed's  Miss \nTheodora).  At  Number  59,  at  the  top  of  the \nhill,  we  find  the  home  of  the  poet  and  novelist, \nThomas  Bailey  Aldrich.  His  near  neighbour \nis  the  imaginary  Mrs.  Buskirk  (Pier's  The \nSentimentalists),  who  lives  in  one  of  this  \"  row \nof  stately  fine  old  houses,  with  little  plots  of \nlawn  in  front  and  high  iron  fences  ;  they  were \nof  four  high-ceilinged  stories  with  well-propor- \ntioned bay-windows  and  deep  vestibules,  in \nwhich  were  tall  jars  of  plants  and  palms.\"  In \nhis  Two  Bites  at  a  Cherry,  Mr.  Aldrich  speaks \nof  crisp  crocuses  blooming  in  these  little  front \nyards  in  the  spring. \n\nMr.  Arlo  Bates  rarely  has  an  actual  house  in \nmind  in  describing  residences,  but  so  real  to \nhim  are  the  homes  of  his  characters  that  he \nhas  fallen  into  the  way,  he  says,  of  inserting  an \n\n34 \n\n\n35 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nimaginary  house  in  the  desired  locality.  So, \nthough  the  action  rambler  may  not  literally \nnumber  them,  he  can  pretty  safely  conclude \nthat  in  this  block  of  Mount  Vernon  Street \nlived  Mrs.  Gore  {The  Puritans),  in  whose \ndrawing-room  occurred  the  Persian  reading \nwhen  \"  Persian  was  the  latest  ethical  caprice,\" \nand  one  of  the  forms  of  the  \"  ethical  jugglery, \nthe  spiritual  and  intellectual  gymnastics  such \nas  the  Bostonians  love.\"  Here  we  also  find \n\"  the  iron  gate  which,  between  stately  stone \nposts,  shuts  off  the  domain  of  the  Frostwinches \n{The  Puritans)  from  the  world,  and  marked \nwith  dignity  the  line  between  the  dwellers  on \nMount  Vernon  Street,  and  the  rest  of  the \nworld.\"  If  we  follow  Ashe  and  Mrs.  Fenton \ninto  the  drawine-room  of  this  house,  we  enter \n\"an  apartment  whose  very  walls  were  incrusted \nwith  conservative  traditions.  .  .  .  The  chief \ndecoration,  one  felt,  was  the  air  of  the  place's \nhaving  been  inhabited  by  generations  of  so- \ncially immaculate  Boston  ancestors.  There \nwas  a  savor  of  lineage  amounting  almost  to \n\n37 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ngodliness  in  the  dark,  self-contained  parlours  ; \nand  if  pedigree  were  not  in  this  dwelling  im- \nputed for  righteousness,  it  was  evidently  held \nin  becoming  reverence  as  the  first  of  virtues.\" \n\nIn  this  exclusive  neighbourhood  must  have \nlived  Peter  Calvin  {The  Philistines),  \"a \nwealthy  and  well-meaning  man  against  whom \nbut  two  grave  charges  could  be  made — that \nhe  supposed  the  growth  of  art  in  this  country \nto  depend  largely  upon  his  patronage,  and  that \nhe  could  never  be  persuaded  not  to  take  him- \nself seriously.  Mr.  Calvin  was  regarded  by \nPhilistine  circles  in  Boston  as  a  sort  of  re-in- \ncarnation of  Apollo,  clothed  upon  with  modern \nenlightenment,  and  properly  arrayed  in  re- \nspectable raiment.\" \n\nJudge  Rathmire,  whose  fortunes  were  so \nclosely  intermingled  with  The  Curse  of  the \nOld  South  Church,  is  described  in  that  novel \nas  living  in  splendid  style  in  Mount  Vernon \nStreet.  A  view  of  the  charming  block  of \nhouses  before  which  we  have  been  loitering \nwas  to  be  had  by  the  Rents  ( Pier's  The  Senti- \n\n33 \n\n\na    ^ \n\n\n39 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nmentalists),  who  lived   directly  opposite   in  a \nthin,    flat-fronted    house    by   which    Mr.    Pier \n\n\n82  MOUNT  VERNON  STREET — THE  HOME  OK \nTHE  RANDOLPHS \n\n\"He  had  almost  reached  their  house  when  he \nsaw  a  slender  girl  coming  down  the  steps.\" — \nMiss    Whites  \"Miss  Brooks.\" \n\nmeant  anyone  of  the  several  that  answers  to \nthis  description.  Helow  the  Kents  on  the  same \nside  of  the  street  at   Number  82,  is  the  house \n\n41 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nin   which    the   creator   of    the    happy-go-lucky \nRandolphs  (Miss   White's   Miss   Brooks)   im- \n\n\n\"  One  of  the  last  spells  of  the  past  was  lifted \nfor  him  when  he  saw  strange  faces  looking  out \nof  those  sun-purpled  window-panes.\" — 7'.  B. \nAldricli  s  \"  Two  Bites  at  a  Cherry\" \n\nagined  them  as  living.  Here  the  Brooks  girls \nstayed  with  their  sister  when  they  were  in  town, \nwhile  on  the  steps  of  this  house  Janet  had  that \nchance  encounter  with  fohn  which  so  changed \nthe  current  of  her  life. \n\n42 \n\n\n•     IT \n\n\n£ \n\nu \n\n•V \n\n« \n\n-r \n\n. \n\n- \n\n3  -2 \ncraq \ni.  ■ \n\n\n=     *S    O \n\n\n.2  c \n\n\n43 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nJohn  T.  Wheelwright,  to  whose  Child  of \nthe  Century  we  have  made  allusion,  lives  at \nNumber  99  Mount  Vernon  Street,  and  wander- \ning from  here  through  Willow  and  into  Chest- \nnut Street  we  find  a  few  steps  up  the  hill  a \nbeautiful  and  well-preserved  old  house  which \nanswers  to  the  description  of  the  home  of \nRose  Jenness  in  Aldrich's  Two  Bites  at  a \nCherry.  Whitelaw,  the  hero  of  this  story,  re- \nturning- to  Boston  after  fifteen  years'  absence, \nfound  \"  people  whom  nobody  knew  occupied \nthe  old  mansion.  One  of  the  last  spells  of  the \npast  was  lifted  for  him  when  he  saw  strange \nfaces  looking  out  of  those  sun-purpled  window- \npanes.\"  This  picturesque,  vine-covered  resi- \ndence was  at  one  time  the  home  of  Edwin \nBooth,  and  is  now  used  as  a  private  school  for \nboys. \n\nReturning  through  Willow  Street  and  cross- \ning Mount  Vernon  we  come  into  quaint  old \nLouisburg  Square,  where,  on  the  south  side  we \nfind  the  former  homes,  a  few  doors  apart,  of \nLouisa  M.  Alcott  and  Mr.  Howells.    At  Nuin- \n\n45 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nber   2    Silas    Lapham    and    his  associates   first \ncame   into   being-,   though    the    book  was  not \n\n\n73  PINCKNEY  STREET — THE   HOME  OE  THE  LACYS \n\ncompleted  until  after  the  novelist  had  moved \nto  Beacon  Street.  In  this  Square  John  (Mrs. \nCampbell's  Ballantyne)  found  charming  Mrs. \nLeBaron  living  ;   and  overlooking  the  Square, \n\n46 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nin  Pinckney  Street,  was  Marion's  former  home, \nwhere  years  later,  advised  by  Mrs.  LeBaron, \nBallantyne  found  lodgings  in  the  then  \"anti- \nmodern  street.\"  This  house  is  Number  J^, \ngiven  over  to  boarders  or  lodgers,  among \nwhom  one  might  have  discovered  Craighead \n(  Truth  Dexter)  before  he  married. \n\nThe  character  of  this  once  aristocratic  street \nis  in  these  days  very  similar  to  the  change  in \nother  parts  of  the  Hill.  This  is  remarked \nupon  by  Anna  Farquhar  [Her  Boston  Experi- \nences), who  says  that  this  is  the  section  reputed \nto  be  Bohemia.  \"  The  majority  of  the  old \nhomes  in  Pinckney  Street  are  converted  into \nlodging-houses,  although  a  few  professional \nfamilies  still  occupy  an  entire  house  apiece. \nThere  are  to  be  found  rooming  spinsters  of \nMayflower  descent,  generally  poor  connec- \ntions of  the  same  families  residing  in  Beacon \nStreet  not  far  away,  —  near  enough  to  mention \nfrequently  and  intimately;  musicians;  news- \npaper people  ;  painters  ;  incipient  authors  and \na    few   full-fledged :   teachers;  composers;   im- \n\n47 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\npecunious  youths  with  high  spirits  and  one \n'  dress  suit '  among  several ;  female  typewriters \nand  private  secretaries.  Here  is  the  freedom  of \nthe  Latin  Quarter,  with  but  a  small  amount  of \nits  license.  .  .  .  In  truth,  this  Boston  Bohemia \nstands  for  good  spirits  and  innocent  uncon- \nventionality,  and  is  several  times  more  virtuous \nthan  Boston  society,  no  matter  how  pretentious- \nly and  flamboyantly  the  little  country  tries  to \ndisprove  its  virtue.\" \n\nThis  is  the  atmosphere  of  that  recent  and \nbrilliant  Boston  novel,  Margaret  Warrener, \nthough  it  is  evident  that  the  author,  Miss  Alice \nBrown,  is  purposely  vague  in  locating  that  in- \nteresting colony  which  she  calls  Babine.  And \nin  Pinckney  Street,  we  are  sure,  was  the  cosy \nthird  floor  sitting-room  of  that  splendid  woman \nand  sculptor,  Helen  Greyson  (Arlo  Bates's \nThe  Pagans).  \"  The  apartment,\"  we  are  told \nin  the  opening  paragraph  of  the  novel,  \"  was \nevidently  that  of  a  woman,  as  numerous  details \nof  arrangement  and  articles  of  feminine  use \nsuggested  ;  and   quite  as  evidently  it  was  the \n\n4s \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nhome  of  a  person  of  taste  and  refinement,  and \nof  one,  too,  who  had  traveled.\" \n\nIII.  THE  CHARLES   STREET  NEIGH- \nBOURHOOD \n\n\nF \n\n\nROM  the  western  slope  of   Beacon   Hill, \nwhere,  as  Emerson  sing-s. \n\n\n\"Each  sired  leads  downward  to  the  sea, — \" \n\nwe  come  down  into  Charles  Street  and  a  local- \nit}'  closely  identified  with  the  fiction  of  Arlo \nBates,  Henry  James,  Howells  and  other  lesser \nliterary  lights.  At  the  period  of  which  Henry \nJames  writes  in  TheBostonians  Charles  Street \nwas  a  place  of  semi-fashionable  residences,  one \nof  which  is  described  by  the  novelist  as  the \nhome  of  Olive  Chancellor.  To-day,  like  the \nadjacent  streets,  it  is  largely  given  over  to \nboarding  and  lodging  houses,  so  that  it  is  nat- \nural in  many  novels  to  find  masculine  charac- \nters lodging-  there. \n\nTo  enter  it  from  Beacon  Street  we  find  a \nfew  doors  along  the  identical  little  Italian  fruit \nshop   where   Graham    first  saw   Mary    Brooks \n\n4<; \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\nAFRICAN   METHODIST  CHURCH \n68   CHARLES  STREET \n\n\n(Eliza  Orne  White's \nMiss  Brooks).  \"His \neyes  were  arrested  by \nthe  rich  colouring  of \nthe  red  apples  and \nyellow  oranges,  which \nshowed  off  to  especial \nadvantage  in  juxta- \nposition to  the  large \n\n\"  She    wished    densely    to    sur- \nblinclies        of        purple       round   herself   with    the    blackness \n\nfrom    which    she    had     sprung.\" — \nand       green        grapes,       Howetlss  \"An  Imperative  Duty\" \n\nand  the  dusky  red  bananas  that  hung  from \nthe  walls  in  great  clusters.  The  dim  g-aslio-ht \ngave  a  semi -obscurity  to  the  place,  so  that \nits  ugly  features  were  softened,  and  Graham \nthought  of  certain  Dutch  paintings  he  had \nseen  abroad.  Into  this  commonplace  back- \nground there  presently  stepped  a  figure  radi- \nant with  life  and  colour.  .  .  .  Suddenly  the \npoor  little  shop  was  transformed,  and  Graham \nthought  of  Una,  whose  face  'made  a  sunshine \nin  the  shady  place.'  \" \n\nHe    followed  her  from   the  shop  up   Mount \n5° \n\n\nIN   AND   ABOUT   BOSTON \n\n\nTHE  CHURCH  OF  THE  ADVENT \nAM)  CLERGY  HOUSE,  BRIM- \nMER STREET \n\n\nVernon  Street  to  her \nsister's  home,  it  will  be \nremembered,  but  we \ndetach  ourselves  from \nthem  at  the  corner  to \ntake  a  passing  glance \nat  the  African  Metho- \ndist Church,  a  rather \npicturesque  edifice  to \n\n\"The    church    was    appointed      which      Rhoda     (HoW- \nwith  a  richness  beautiful  to  see.\" \n—Arlo  Bates's  \"Puritans\"  e  1  1  S  '  S    J III  p  C  V  (I  t  IV  C \n\nDitty),  sick  with  the  sudden  knowledge  that \nshe  was  of  negro  blood,  was  led  to  a  meet- \ning by  an  old  coloured  woman.  \"  She  had  no \nmotive  in  being  where  she  was  except  to \nconfront  herself  as  fully  and  closely  with  the \ntrouble  in  her  soul  as  she  could  .  .  .  she \nwished  densely  to  surround  herself  with  the \nblackness  from  which  she  had  sprung,  and  to \nreconcile  herself  to  it  by  realizing  and  owning \nit  with  every  sense.\" \n\nWest  of  this  church,  clustering  at  the  water's \nedge,  is  the  exclusive  Brimmer  Street  quarter, \n\n51 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nwhich  tiny  section,  a  novelist  has  said,  covers \nmore  of  the  real  wit,  wisdom  and  worklliness \nthan  any  one  other  part  of  Boston.  Here,  in \none  of  the  whimsical  little  streets,  amid  some \nstrictly  Sabbatarian  and  conventional  families, \nand  the  quality  of  the  artistic  life,  lived  the \nLesters,  an  evening  at  whose  house  was  among \nMargaret  Allston's  Boston  Experiences.  Here, \ntoo,  we  find  the  Church  of  the  Advent,  with \nits  Clergy  House,  which,  under  the  thin  dis- \nguise of  the  Nativity,  plays  a  conspicuous \npart  in  Arlo  Bates's  novel,  The  Puritans. \nEvery  one  will  recall  the  dramatic  description \nof  the  midnight  service  at  the  Nativity.  \"  The \nmusic  on  this  occasion  was  most  elaborate, \nthe  very  French  millinery  of  sacred  music.  .  .  . \nThe  church,  moreover,  was  appointed  with \na  richness  beautiful  to  see.  The  vestments \nmight  have  moved  the  envy  of  high  Roman \nprelates,  and  the  altar  plate  shone  in  gold  and \nprecious  stones.\"  The  Father  Superior  of  the \nClergy  House,  in  which  lived  Maurice  Wynne \nand    Philip    Ashe,    of  the    novel,  was  Father \n\n52 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nFrontford,  whom  Mr.  Bates  stoutly  denies \nhaving  drawn  from  the  actual  incumbent. \nMr.  Bates  says  he  has  drawn  but  one  char- \nacter from  life,  and  that  was  Dr.  Ashton  of \nThe  Pagans,  whose  identity  was  unsuspected \nsave  by  the  prototype  and  his  fiancee.  But \nsuch  genius  has  this  author  for  depicting  the \nBostonese  as  he  really  is  that  there  is  no  one \nof  his  fictitious  characters  who  has  not  been \nfitted  by  the  public  to  some  prominent  person. \nThis  has  been  both  amusing  and  annoying  to \nMr.  Bates,  whose  tribulations  in  this  line  were \nundoubtedly  in  his  mind  when  he  wrote  Love  in \na  Cloud,  in  which  he  takes  occasion  to  remark \nthat  \"  If  the  scene  of  a  novel  be  laid  in  a  pro- \nvincial city,  its  characters  must  all  be  identified. \nThat  is  the  first  intellectual  duty  of  the  readers \nof  fiction.  To  look  at  a  novel  from  a  critical \npoint  of  view  is  no  longer  in  the  least  a  thing \nabout  which  any  reader  need  concern  himself; \nb  _:t  it  would  be  an  omission  unpardonably  stu- \npid were  he  to  remain  unacquainted  with  some \noriginal  under  the  disguise  of  every  character.\" \n\n53 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\nNear  the  Church  of  the  Advent,  in  Brimmer \nStreet,  stands  the  bachelor  apartment  where \nBellingham  lived  (The  Ministers  Charge), \nthe  delightful  interior  of  which  Mr.  Howells \npictures  for  us  most  charmingly  on  the \nmorning-   Barker  breakfasted  there. \n\nTo  turn  from  here \n\n\ninto  Charles  Street \nagain  we  come  upon \nthe  block  of  houses \nin  one  of  which  lived \nOlive  Chancellor \n(Henry  James's  The \nBostojiians).  After \nVerona  came  to  live \nwith  Olive,  this  was \nthe  only  spot  in \nCharles  Street  that  had  any  significance  for \nRansom,  the  Mississippian,  whom  we  first  meet \nin  Olive's  drawing-room  tete-a-tete  with  her \nsister,  Mrs.  Luna,  who  flippantly  explains  to \nhim  that  Olive  is  \"a  female  Jacobin  —  a  nihilist, \nconsorting  with  witches  and  wizards,  mediums \n\n54 \n\n\nCHARLES  STREET \n\n\" — he  heard  the  door  open \nwithin  the  deep  embrasure  in \nwhich,  in  Charles  Street,  the  main \nportals  are  set.\" — James's  \"The \nBostonians\" \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nand  spirit-rappers  and  roaring  radicals.\"  Olive \nhad  the  good  fortune  to  dwell  on  that  side \nof  Charles  Street  toward  which,  in  the  rear, \n\"the  afternoon  sun  slants  redly  .  .  .  over \na  brackish  expanse  of  anomalous  character \nwhich  is  too  bie  for  a  river  and  too  small  for \na  bay.\" \n\nThis  was  also  the  view  to  be  seen  from  Gra- \nham's chambers  (Miss  Brooks),  which  were \nhigh  in  a  house  across  the  way  and  farther \ndown,  at  Number  127.  These  lodgings,  as \ndescribed  by  Miss  Eliza  Orne  White,  were  the \nactual  rooms  of  her  friend,  Miss  Lucretia  Hale, \na  sister  of  Edward  Everett  Hale,  who  loved \nher  view  out  over  the  water,  but  commonly \nfound,  as  did  Graham,  that  her  friends  objected \nto  the  coal  sheds  in  the  foreground.  Mary, \nthe  heroine  of  Miss  Brooks,  when  she  came  to \nthe  tea  John  gave  in  his  chambers,  \"went  to \nthe  window,  from  which  a  pale  gray  strip  of \nCharles  River  could  be  seen  in  the  distance, \nwith  the  spires  and  houses  of  Cambridge  rising- \nabove  it,  and  looking  in  the  misty  atmosphere \n\n55 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nlike  a  blurred  charcoal  sketch.  Her  attention, \nhowever,  was  riveted  by  some  coal  sheds  that \nloomed  up  conspicuously  in  the  foreground. \n'  You  like  your  view  because  it  is  your  dispo- \nsition to  make  the  best  of  things,'  she  said. \n'  Instead  of  looking  facts  squarely  in  the  face \nyou  idealize  them.  If  I,  for  instance,  with  my \ndifferent  temperament,  were  in  your  place,  I \nshould  say  plainly,  '  Those  coal  sheds  are  hid- \neous ;  they  spoil  my  view.' '  Graham,  not \ndrawn  as  a  Bostonian,  but  one  of  the  most  de- \nlightful men  in  Boston  fiction,  is  a  composite \nsketch  from  two  western  relatives  of  the  au- \nthor—  one  middle-aged  and  the  other  a  young \nman  from  whose  combined  characteristics  she \nmodelled  her  hero. \n\nBefore  he  married  and  became  a  United \nStates  Senator,  John  Harrington  (Crawford's \nAn  American  Politician)  had  rooms  in  Charles \nStreet,  and  though  Miss  Eugenia  Brooks \nFrothinoham  is  va^ue  as  to  localitv,  it  is  safe \nto  surmise — since  it  is  the  usual  abiding-place \nof  Boston  bachelors  in  fiction — that  Dan  and \n\n5^> \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nGarrison  {The  Turn  of  the  Road)   had  their \napartment  there. \n\nAt  Number  164,  on  the  water  side  of  the \nstreet,  once  lived  the  Autocrat  whose  library \nwindows  overlooked  the  basin  of  the  Charles \n— a  view  from  which  he  drew  perpetual  inspi- \nration. He  found  the  water  craft  a  source  of \nendless  interest,  and  the  contemplation  of  them \ncaused  him  to  write  this  noble  tribute  to  wo- \nman :  \"  I  have  seen  a  tall  ship  glide  by  against \nthe  tide,  as  if  drawn  by  some  invisible  tow-line, \nwith  a  hundred  strong  arms  pulling  it.  Her \nsails  hung  unfilled,  her  streamers  were  droop- \ning ;  she  had  neither  side-wheel  nor  stern- \nwheel,  still  she  moved  on  stately,  as  if  with \nher  own  life.  But  I  knew  that  on  the  other \nside  of  the  ship,  hidden  beneath  the  great  hulk \nthat  swam  so  majestically,  there  was  a  little \ntoilincr  steam-tuQ-  with  heart  of  fire  and  arms \nof  iron,  that  was  hugfginef  it  close  and  dra°f- \nging  it  bravely  on  ;  and  I  knew  that  if  the \nlittle  steam-tug  untwined  her  arms  and  left  the \ntall   ship,  it  would  wallow  and   roll  about,  and \n\n57 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ndrift  hither  and  thither,  and  gfo  off  with  the \nrefluent  tide,  no  man  knows  whither.  And  so \nI  have  known  more  than  one  gfenius,  hisdi- \ndecked,  full-freighted,  wide-sailed,  gay-pen- \nnoned,  that,  but  for  the  bare,  toiling  arms  and \nbrave,  warm,  beating  heart  of  the  faithful  little \nwife  that  nestled  close  in  his  shadow,  and  clung \nto  him,  so  that  no  wind  or  wave  could  part \nthem,  and  dra^o-ed  him  on  against  all  the  tide \nof  circumstance,  would  soon  have  gone  down \nthe  stream  and  been  heard  of  no  more.\" \n\nNearby,  at  148,  we  find  an  interesting  liter- \nary centre  in  the  home  of  Mrs.  James  T.  Fields, \nwho  lingers  on  in  the  old  house  so  full  of  as- \nsociations.  Not  the  least  of  the  charms  of  this \nhouse,  the  front  of  which  presents  a  common- \nplace exterior  to  the  passer-by,  is  the  deep \ngarden  at  the  rear,  with  its  benches  and  trees \nand  shrubs  and  flowers,  and  always  at  its  edofe \nthat  bit  of  the  sea  known  to  the  Bostonese  as \n\"  the  river \"  or  \"  the  bay,\"  beloved  by  Mrs. \nFields  and  felt  in  many  of  the  stories  of  Sarah \nOrne  Jewett,  who  spends  much  time  with  her. \n\n5S \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       B  O  S  T  O  N \n\nQuaint  and  elaborately  designed  landscape \nscreens  are  to  be  found  in  most  of  the  win- \ndows of  the  Charles  Street  residences — a \nmark  as  distinctive  of  this  neighbourhood  as \nare  the  purple  window-panes  of  Beacon  Hill. \n\nBeautiful  gardens  were  not  uncommon  at \nthe  West  End  when  Mr.  Howells  first  knew \nBoston,  and  not  far  from  Mrs.  Fields,  in  lower \nPinckney  Street,  which  he  calls  Rumford,  he \npictures  in  A  Modern  Instance  a  charming  one. \n\"  Mrs.  Halleck  liked  better  than  mountain  or \nsea  the  hiorh-walled  crarden  that  stretched  back \nof  their  house  to  the  next  street.  .  .  .  They \nlaid  it  out  in  box-bordered  beds,  and  there  were \nclumps  of  hollyhocks,  sunflowers,  lilies  and \nphlox  in  different  corners  ;  grapes  covered  the \ntrellised  walls  ;  there  were  some  pear  trees  that \nbore  blossoms,  and  sometimes  ripened  their \nfruit  beside  the  walk.\"  It  was  Halleck.  it  will \nbe  remembered,  who  said  :  \"  I  don't  think \nthere  is  any  place  quite  so  well  worth  being \nborn  in  as  Boston.  It's  more  authentic  and \nindividual,  more   municipal   after  the   old   pat- \n\n59 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ntern,  than  any  other  modern  city.  Even  Bos- \nton provinciality  is  a  precious  testimony  to  the \nauthoritative  personality  of  the  city.\" \n\nAt  the  end  of  Charles  Street,  stretching \nnorthward  across  the  water,  is  the  bridge  where \nDan  {The  Turn  of  t lie  Road)  walked  alone  to \nfight  the  horror  of  his  approaching  blindness, \nand  there  had  a  chance  encounter  with  Kate \nRandolph,  for  whom  at  that  time,  he  found  it \ndifficult  to  conceal  his  contempt.  This  bridge \nis  the  one  of  which  Graham  [Miss  Brooks)  said \nthat  he  often  wished  he  could  make  his  poorer \nneighbours  feel  the  refreshment,  almost  the  in- \nspiration in  a  walk  across  it  just  at  sunset,  or \nin  the  twilight  when  the  lights  were  beginning \nto  come  out  one  by  one. \n\nIn  Mar  fin  Merrivale,  Mr.  Trowbridge  re- \nlates how  his  hero,  accompanied  by  Cheesy  and \nthe  others  in  their  tramp  to  Boston  crossed \nthe  bridge  to  enter  the  city  just  at  dusk. \nCheesy,  a  typical  country  boy,  gives  his  first \nimpressions  of  the  city  in  a  characteristic  com- \nment :    \"  I  had   no   ide'  it  was  settled  so   clust \n\n60 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nhere.\"  Over  the  bridge  for  many  years  ran \nthe  horse  cars  to  Cambridge,  —  a  line  patron- \nizedby  Basil  (  Tlic  Dostonians)  when  he  went  out \nthere  to  see  Verona  Tarrent — the  same  tedious \nroute  over  which  Mrs.  Tarrent  had  spent  hours \nin  \"jingling,  aching,  jostled  journeys\"  —  what \nBostonian  or  Cantabridgian  does  not  remem- \nber them  ?  —  \"  between  Charles  Street  and  her \nsuburban  cottage.\" \n\nThe  old  wooden  bridge  of  which  these \nnovelists  wrote  has  given  way  to  a  modern \nsteel  structure,  which  may  or  may  not  make  its \nappearance  in  the  Boston  fiction  of  the  future. \n\nIV.    IN  AND    ABOUT  THE  COMMON \n\nTO  the  fiction  rambler  the  Common,  that \ngreat   stretch   of   green   a    forest   of \nsplendid  trees  in  the  very  heart  of  the \ncity,   is  full   of  flitting  shadows  —  peopled  by \nold  friends  and  acquaintances,  whom,  in  imagin- \nation we  meet  at  every  turn. \n\nToiling  heavily  up  the  Park  Street  mall  late \non   a  hot  summer    day,  we  seem  to    see   Mr. \n\n61 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nJoshua  Harkness  (Howells's  A  Woman's \nReason),  struggling  to  get  home,  but  so  ill  that \nhe  drops  at  last  on  a  bench,  remaining  there \nuntil  an  obliging  policeman  finds  a  carriage  to \ntake  him  home.  At  the  head  of  this  mall  Bart- \nley  Hubbard  and  Marcia  (Howells's  A  Alodem \nInstance),  taking  their  first  stroll  here  one  win- \nter's day,  stopped  to  see  the  boys  coasting \nunder  the  care  of  the  police  between  two  long \nlines  of  spectators. \n\nIn  this  mall,  too,  on  one  of  the  near-by \nbenches  Martin  Merrivale,  in  the  novel  of  that \nname,  and  the  little  blind  Alice  sat  many  a  day \nwhile  he  described  the  beautiful  slopes  and \nreeal  trees  about  them.  \"  We  are  in  a  magmi- \nficent  rolling  park,\"  he  said  to  her,  \"  laid  out  in \navenues  and  paths,  with  long,  double  rows  of \nsuch  trees  as  I  have  described,  running  in  al- \nmost every  direction.  The  city  is  on  three \nsides,  but  on  the  west  there  is  a  river  that \ngleams  like  silver.  Beyond  that  are  blue  hills, \nall  asleep  under  the  hazy  sky.  On  che  hills \nthere  are  woods  and  houses,  and  on  the  river  a \n\n62 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nslow-moving    sail.      I   wish  you    could  see  all \nthis,  my  deal  child.\"    The  gentle  Alice,  though \n\n\n\"  Ever  since  I  had  a  ten-cent  look  at  the  tran- \nsit of  Venus  .  .  .  through  the  telescope  in  the \nMall,  the  earth  has  been  wholly  different  to  me \nfrom  what  it  used  to  be.\" — Holmes's  \"Over  the \nTea-  Cups .\" \n\na  fictitious  character,  was  suggested  to  Mr. \nTrowbridge  by  his  friendship  with  a  woman \nwho  was  an  interesting  psychologic  study,  she \n\n63 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nhaving  remarkable  prophetic  visions,  as  Alice \ndid. \n\nNo  doubt  Martin  and  Alice  in  their  walk \ndown  the  mall  often  encountered  near  the \nTremont  Street  entrance,  the  telescope  man \nwhom  Holmes  has  immortalized  :  \"  Ever  since \nI  had  a  ten  cent  look  at  the  transit  of  Venus \n.  .  .  through  the  telescope  in  the  mall,\"  he \nsays,  \"  the  earth  has  been  wholly  different  to  me \nfrom  what  it  used  to  be.\"  As  in  the  Autocrat's \ntime,  ever  cheerfully  ready  is  he  to-day  to  show \nthe  wonders  of  the  planet. \n\nAt  the  head  of  Park  Street,  across  from  this \nmall,  stood  until  within  a  few  years  the  beau- \ntiful Ticknor  mansion — during  George  Tick- \nnor's  time  a  rallying-point  for  literary  Boston, \nand  likewise  famed  as  being  the  house  where \nLafayette  stayed  during  his  visit  in  1824.  This \nis,  undoubtedly,  the  house  where  Margaret  and \nLaura  lived  in  Mrs.  Louise  Chandler  Moul- \nton's  A  Letter  and  What  Came  of  It. \n\nNext  door  down  the  sloping  street  is  the \nUnion  Club,  shown,  as  is  the  mansion  in  the  il- \n\n64 \n\n\nd  > \n\n\nG \n\n\nt>      .O \n\n\nZ      T3 \n\n\nO   to \n\nw  .5 \n=*  \"2 \n\nO  7n \n\n\"a  o \n\n\n5     ^        £  >- \n\n\n—    a!  ^ \n1-    o  .ft \n\n\n8     ^ \n\n:-s  ^: \n\nC \n\nc  •—   •-> \n\n3 \n\nMtn\"* \n\nO \n\nrt   aj    tj- \n\n£  ^ \n\na; \n\nu  r* \n\n«\"  £  ~S \n\ni-* \n\n£  \"*a  § \n\n•-  <  * \n\no \n\na;       _*. \n\n^3 \n\nb     \"  En \n\naj         v7 \n\nC  i \n\n.    a,      • \n\n65 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nlustration,  before  either  had  undergone  altera- \ntions. Sewell,  Mr.  John  T.  Wheelwright's  Child \nof  the  Century,  was  a  member  of  this  club,  and, \nit  will  be  remembered,  entertained  Strong  at \nbreakfast  there.  \"Sewell  was  a  beino-  brought \nto  manhood  under  the  segis  of  a  protective \ntariff  and  a  Puritan  ancestry,\"  says  his  creator. \n\"  His  whole  life  had  been  spent  on  that  part  of \nthe  earth's  surface  which  is  contained  in  a  cir- \ncle with  a  radius  of  five  miles,  and  with  the \ntarnished  gilt  dome  of  the  State  House  as  a \ncentre  ;  that  favoured  spot  of  earth  where  civic \npride  contends  for  the  mastery  over  human \nsouls,  with  hatred  of  taxes — for  the  true  Bos- \ntonian  never  denies  his  birthplace  save  to  the \ntax-collector.  Of  course,  he  had  at  intervals \nemerged,  incrusted  with  prejudices  as  with  an \narmour,  from  this  magic  ring,  in  short,  tangent \ntrips,  having  had  the  daring  to  penetrate  one \nwinter  to  the  mournful  live-oaks  and  gladsome \nskies  of  Florida,  to  dodge  the  treacherous  east \nwinds  ;  and  in  an  autumn  ramble  as  far  north \nas  the  Saguenay,  flowing  majestically  through \n\n67 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nthe  great  Canadian  forests  ;  but  the  centrip- \netal force  of  this  '  Hub  planet,'  so  to  speak, \nhad  always  a  much  stronger  effect  upon  him \nthan  the  centrifugal ;  and  like  those  red  woolen \nballs  fastened  to  a  rubber  string,  which  in  our \nboyhood  caused  us  glee,  he  sought  his  native \ntown  with  the  more  rapidity,  the  farther  away \nfrom  it  he  strayed.  Though  he  did  not  revel \nin  existence  there,  somehow  he  seemed  to  be- \nlong in  the  old  town.\" \n\nThis  is  a  photographic  picture  of  the  con- \nservative Boston  type.  Sewell,  however,  was \ncapable  of  doing  the  unexpected,  and  in  the \nopening  chapter  of  the  novel,  having  suddenly \ndecided  to  go  to  Europe,  we  learn  that  \"  he \ntacked  upon  his  office-door  the  legend  :  '  Back \nin  five  minutes,'  engrossed  in  his  neatest  legal \nhand-writing,  walked  up  to  his  rooms,  packed \nhis  valise,  hailed  a  coupe,  and  drove  to  the \nstation  without  a  word  of  good-bye  to  a  soul \nin  the  city,  after  thirty  years  of  residence.\"  It \nis  interestine  to  know  that  Mr.  Wheelwright \noriginally   intended    Sewell   to    be  a   kind    of \n\n68 \n\n\no   ^ \n\n\nE  *> \n\n\n—  CD \n\n\n-»-•  'f.    •Z \n\n\nc  o& \n\n\nt*  £ \n\n\n.£  «> \n\n\n<a \n\n\n«i  Sen* \n\n;     a, \no \n\n\n69 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nYankee  Pickwick  who  travelled  about  in \nsearch  of  adventure  ;  but  he  crot  involved  in \nthe  Mugwump  campaign  of  1884,  and  became \nruined  by  what  Mr.  Wheelwright  called,  in \nspeaking  of  him,  \"  the  fatal  contact  with  poli- \ntics.\" \n\nJust  below  the  club,  Roweny  (Mrs.  Keats \nBradford)  took  an  apartment  because  she  liked \nthe  odour  of  business  which  in  recent  years \nhas  crept  into  the  street.  At  the  corner,  fac- \ning in  Tremont  Street,  is  the  Park  Street \nChurch  which  Martin  (Trowbridge's  Martin \nMerrivale)  attended. \n\nOn  the  western  slope  of  the  Common  is  the \nbeautiful  Beacon  Street  Mall,  which  seemed  to \nLemuel  Barker  (Howells's  The  Minister  s \nCharge)  a  kind  of  grove,  so  attractive  and \nhome-like  to  the  country  lad  that  he  lingered \non  one  of  the  benches,  where  misfortunes  soon \nbefell  him.  Later  in  his  career  he  took  a \nmemorable  walk  through  this  mall  with  Made- \nline Swan.  Here,  too,  came  Bartley  Hubbard \nand    Marcia  (Howells's  A  Modern   Instance), \n\n71 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nwho,  so  far  from  knowing  that  they  must  not \nwalk  in  the  Common,  used  to  sit  down  on  a \nbench  there  in  the  pleasant  weather,  and  watch \nthe  opening  of  the  spring. \n\nTo  the  literary  rambler  the  Common  holds \nno  walk  so  full  of  interest  as  \"  the  long  path,\" \nrunning  down  from  opposite  Joy  Street  south- \nward across  the  whole  length  of  the  Common \nto  Boylston  Street,  which  the  Autocrat  and  the \nSchoolmistress  walked  together.  \"  I  felt  very \nweak  indeed  (though  of  a  tolerably  robust \nhabit),\"  says  the  Autocrat,  \"  as  we  came  op- \nposite the  head  of  this  path  on  that  morning. \nI  think  I  tried  to  speak  twice  without  making \nmyself  distinctly  audible.  At  last  I  got  out  the \nquestion,  —  Will  you  take  the  long  path  with \nme?  —  Certainly, — said  the  schoolmistress, — \nwith  much  pleasure.  —  Think, — I  said,  —  be- \nfore you  answer  :  if  you  take  the  long  path  with \nme  now,  I  shall  interpret  it  that  we  are  to  part \nno  more. —  The  schoolmistress  stepped  back \nwith  a  sudden  movement,  as  if  an  arrow  had \nstruck    her.      One  of  the  long  granite  blocks \n\n72 \n\n\n:■$&& * \n\n\n*■•  win    -  'fh'il \n\n. ,  Mil]    ■  * \n\n\n.£     U  ^ \n\n•r   c   « \n\n£  ^   > \n\nr/T  ^  fe \n\ntres \nath \n'I \n\n.en    2,,. \n\nJ3  !=e2 \n\no  c  \"5 \n\no  o  w \n\n\"57> \n\nw.§  K \n\n4-.      U \n\n1)          >  E \n\n•5^  S^- \n\nj         3    3^^ \n\n<n   O  c/2  -m \n\n>->        ^ \n\n>-H                       •    << \n\ni      a  .-  .  « \n\nrt   h         ^ \n\n*3   D  -      -* \n\nfe  ■  |  «  ^ \n\n-     o  oV \n\nrv.   5L.fi    * \n\nh  me \nfore \npart \n\nocrat \n\nj_i    D           -v. \n\n<—         ^    J_ \n\nw-O   ^    2j \n\nS-1^ \n\n-&*>>-<  „  : \n\nc.    - \n\nO          yTjSj \n\n-H^i     Wl \n\n0J   -th    .Th         ■ \n\n-N  S   0 \n\nu  take \ne.'      ' \nnterpr \nwith  \\ \n\no  h      >*$ \n\nilly \neasi \nhall \npat \n\n£-&m&P \n\n-     X!      .^ \n\n73 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nused  as  seats  was  hard  by, — the  one  you  may \nstill  see  close  by  the  Gingko-tree.  —  Pray,  sit \ndown,  — I  said. —  No,  no,  she  answered,  softly, \n—  I  will  walk  the  long  pat '  h  with  you  !  \"  How \ndelightful  to  have  been  the  old  gentleman  who \nmet  them  about  the  middle  of  the  way  down, \nwalking;  arm  in  arm  !  The  granite  seat  has \nbeen  removed  from  the  mall,  but  the  gingko- \ntree  remains,  and  no  doubt  its  delicate  flutter- \ning leaves  are  still  whispering  love  secrets  to \nthe  neighbouring  tree-tops. \n\nFrom  the  Joy  Street  mall  across  the  hollow \nwhich  holds  the  Frog  Pond  is  the  most  charm- \ning view  on  the  Common,  we  are  told  by  Mr. \nArlo  Bates  in  The  Pagans,  one  of  the  charac- \nters of  which  novel,  Helen  Greyson,  frequent- \nly traversed  this  path  on  her  way  from  her \nhome  on  Beacon  Hill  to  her  studio.  The \nFrog  Pond  is  described  by  Mr.  Howells  in \nThe  Ministers  Charge  as  the  place  where, \nafter  a  wretched  night  on  one  of  the  near-by \nbenches,  Barker  washed  his  hands  and  face, \nwhile  other  people  were  asleep  all  round  him. \n\n75 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nAcross  the  green  in  the  Tremont  Street \nmall  used  to  sit  old  Mr.  James  Bowdoin  (Stim- \nson's  Pirate  Gold)  for  half  an  hour  before \nbreakfast  every  morning,  walking  over  from \nhis  home  in  Colonnade  Row  over  the  way. \nAnd  here,  no  doubt,  sat  the  hero  of  Looking \nBackward,  \"  finding  an  interest  merely  in \nwatching  the  throngs  that  passed,  such  as  one \nhas  in  studying  the  populace  of  a  foreign  city, \nso  strange  since  yesterday  had  my  fellow-citi- \nzens and  their  ways  become  to  me.\" \n\nThe  Common,  with  its  malls  and  well-regu- \nlated intersecting  paths,  is  not  now  quite  the \nsunny  meadow  and  pasture  for  cows  Cooper's \nLionel  Lincoln,  in  the  novel  of  that  name,  found \nit  when  first  he  came  to  Boston,  though  soon \nafter  his  arrival  the  bucolic  rusticity  of  the \nscene  was  broken  by  the  quartering  of  British \nsoldiers.  The  impish  Job  Pray,  whose  weird \nand  daring-  utterances  astonished  his  red-coat \nauditors,  told  Lionel  he  objected  to  the  sol- \ndiers because  they  starved  the  cows.  \"  Boston \ncows,\"  said  he,  \"  don't  love  grass  that   British \n\n76 \n\n\nO    -J \n\n\nJ!  I \n\nrt    4) \n\n\nD  c \n\n4_,  t/) \n\nc  c \n\n4-  [T< \n\n\n77 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nsoldiers  have  trampled  on.\"  Many  a  time \nin  those  anxious  days  Lionel,  listening  for \na  stir  of  soldiery  on  the  Common,  heard \nonly  the  \"faint  lowing  of  cattle  from  the \nmeadows.\" \n\nIn  The  Rebels  Lydia  M.  Childs  pictures  the \nCommon  invaded  by  the  British,  and  so,  too, \ndoes  Mr.  Chambers  in  his  colonial  novel,  Car- \ndigan. \"  I  had  never  before  seen  so  many  sol- \ndiers together,\"  says  the  hero,  \"  nor  such  a \nbrilliant  variety  of  uniforms.  The  townspeople, \ntoo,  lingered  to  watch  the  soldiers,  some  sul- \nlenly, some  indifferently,  some  in  open  enjoy- \nment. These  latter  were  doubtless  Tories,  for \nin  their  faces  one  could  not  mistake  the  expres- \nsion of  sneering  triumph.  Also  many  of  them \ntalked  to  the  soldiers,  which  earned  them  un- \nconcealed scowls  from  passing  citizens.\" \n\nOf  the  Common  thus  invaded  Holmes  con- \ntributes his  picture  : \n\nAnd  over  all  the  open  greeti, \n\nWhere  grazed  of  late  the  harmless  kine, \nThe  cannon's  deepening  ruts  are  seen, \n\nThe  war-horse  stamps,  the  bayonets  shine, \n\n79 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nThe  clouds  are  dark  with  crimson  rain \n\nAbove  the  murderous  hireling ' s  den, \nAnd  soon  their  whistling  showers  shall  stain \nThe  pipe-  clayed  belts  of  Gage's  men . \n\nWhat  would  seem  to  us  now  as  strange  a \nspectacle  as  the  cows  was  the  spinning  craze, \nwhich  led  the  belles  of  the  colony  to  bring \ntheir  wheels  to  the  Common.  This  odd  scene \nBynner  describes  in  Agnes  Surriage.  \"  Rows \nof  young  women  with  their  spinning  wheels \nwere  busy  at  work  in  the  open  air,\"  he  says, \n\"  while  elderly  men  and  matrons  went  up  and \ndown  the  hill  to  give  them  countenance  and \nkeep  at  a  distance  the  gaping  crowd.  '  Tis  the \nfashion,\"  Frankland  explained  to  Agnes.  \"  to \nencourage  industry  and  thrift  ;  these  are  the \ndaughters  of  our  most  substantial  citizens  come \nforth  here  to  give  an  example  to  the  meaner \nsort.'  \"  From  the  coquetry  of  the  pretty  minxes \nhe  suspected  they  enjoyed  the  admiration  of \nthe  swains  close  at  hand,  and  he  laughingly \nhurried  Agnes  away  lest  she  join  the  ranks. \n\nNear  the  Common  half-way  down  in  West \nStreet,  was  the  Latin   School  attended  by  the \n\nSo \n\n\n8i \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nhero  of  Wheelwright's  A  Child  of  the  Century, \nand  Philip  Sanderson  in  Mrs.  Otis's  The  Bar- \nclays of  Boston.  just  around  the  corner  in \nMason  Street  is  \"  the  Old  Elm,  that  subter- \nranean retreat  known  to  bachelors  and  busy \nhusbands,\"  where  the  elder  Craighead  (  Truth \nDexter)  heard  his  son  unpleasantly  discussed. \nTurning  from  here  through  an  alley  to \nWashington  Street,  and  walking  down  a  short \ndistance  to  the  corner  of  Washington  and  Es- \nsex Streets,  we  come  upon  the  exact  spot \nwhere  in  Revolutionary  days  stood  the  Lib- \nerty Tree.  Of  this  section  of  the  town  as  de- \nscribed in  the  novels  of  colonial  life  nothing \nactually  remains  ;  but  strolling  in  this  locality, \nimagination  sweeps  away  the  modern  business \nblocks  and  whirr  of  traffic,  to  conjure  up  a  pic- \nture of  these  stirring  days  when  the  Sons  of \nLiberty  flitted  about  this  neighbourhood,  then \nalmost  pastoral.  In  The  Rebels  we  are  told  by \nthe  novelist  that  there  was  shot  into  Governor \nHutchinson's  rooms  one  evening  an  arrow  to \nwhich    was   fastened   a  slip    of   paper   bearing \n\n33 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nthese  words  :  \"  Lieutenant  Governor,  Member \nof  the  Council,  Commander  of  the  Castle, \nJudge  of  the  Probate,  and  Chief  Justice  of  the \nSupreme  Court  !  You  are  hereby  commanded \nto  appear  under  the  Liberty  Tree  within  one \nhour,  to  plight  your  faith  that  you  will  use  no \nmore  influence  against  an  injured  and  exasper- \nated people.\"  Discussing  this,  the  Governor \nexplained  to  Somerville  that  the  Liberty  Tree \nwas  a  large  elm  opposite  Frog  Lane,  where \nthe  mob  dared  to  suspend  their  insulting  effi- \ngies. This  historic  tree  stood  beside  a  smaller \none  in  the  yard  of  a  dwelling,  where  it  re- \nmained until  the  British  cut  it  down  in  Au- \ngust, 1775.  The  rambler  who  finds  it  difficult \nto  picture  this  in  imagination  may  be  inter- \nested to  look  up  on  the  wall  of  the  business \nbuilding  in  Washington,  just  below  Essex \nStreet,  and  see  the  memorial  bas-relief  of  the \nLiberty  Tree,  which  has  been  placed  there. \n\nA  few  steps  north,  about  opposite  the  present \nHaywood  Place,  stood  in  Washington  (then \ncalled  Newbury)  Street  the  White  Horse  Tav- \n\n84 \n\n\nSs \n\n\n'■£.    «  f-1 \n\n\n1.2.      2 \n\n\n,— 1  -5- \n\n\n^3 \n\nO  q= \n\n■*-' \n\n4> \n\nT3 \n\nbj \n\n■o  b \n\no \n\n!5    0 \n\nS   S \n\na  n \n\nfa  c \n\nO    1- \n\n1) \n\nu    m \n\nTJ \n\nv \n\no \n\n43 \n\nu    iS \n\n-< \n\n\"^   3 \n\n%i \n\nT3 \n\n(- \n\n\"  > \n\nN, \n\no  -£; \n\n*^ \n\n3    rt \n\nO  X \n\n^•5 \n\n\"y \n\n85 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nern,  of  which  Miss  Child  writes  in  The  Rebels. \n\"Willing,\"  she  says,  \"to  ascertain  more  fully \nthe  state  of  public  feeling,  Captain  Somerville \nentered  the  White  Horse  Tavern,  and  carelessly \nglancing  over  the  London  Chronicle,  kept  a \nwatchful  eye  on  those  who  entered  and  de- \nparted.\" There  he  heard  his  uncle  —  Governor \nHutchinson — unfavourably  commented  on  a- \nmid  general  mutteringsof  discontent  by  a  group, \nin  the  centre  of  which  was  Samuel  Adams,  ex- \nhorting them  to  remember  that  nothing- was  to \nbe  gained  bv  violence;  evervthingf  bv  calm  and \ndignified  firmness.  Poor  young  Benjamin \nWoodbridge,over  whosegrave  the  Autocrat  and \nthe  Schoolmistress  mourned,  is  said  to  have  been \na  frequenter  of  this  tavern,  to  which  he  came  for \nhis  sword  before  that  duel  with  Phillips  on  the \nCommon,  which  caused  his  death.  It  is  of  scenes \nsimilar  to  those  we  find  graphically  described  in \nthe  semi-historical  novels  that  Emerson  wrote: \n\nThe  townsmen  braved  the  English  King, \n\nFound  friendship  in  the  French, \nAnd  Honour  joined  the  patriot  ring \n\nLow  on  their  wooden  bench. \n\n87 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nV.  A  RAMBLE  ROUND  THE   PUBLIC \nGARDEN \n\nIN  the  childhood  of  a  Bostonian  born  in  1 840, \nwhat  is  now  the  Public  Garden  was  in  pro- \ncess of  evolution  from  a  public  dump  and \ndesolate  ash-heap  into  something  resembling \nits  present  condition,  though  many  years  were \nto  elapse  before  it  became  the  thing  of  beauty \nit  is  to-day.  It  already  rejoiced  in  the  name  of \nGarden,  but  its  floral  inhabitants  were  few,  and  it \nwas  a  favourite  camping-ground  for  the  circus, \nand  the  menagerie,  together  with  such  side- \nshows as  followed  in  the  wake  of  the  clown  and \nthe  elephant.  It  supported  some  lofty  swings \nfor  the  amusement  of  the  young  and  with  these \nwas  a  fandango,  so  called,  —  a  tall  shaft  revolv- \ning vertically  with  seats  at  each  end  which \nwere  alternately  soared  into  the  air  and  then  al- \nmost touched  the  ground.  About  this  time  the \nGarden  received  its  sea-wall  of  granite,  which \nmade  its  western  boundary  ;  and  all  beyond \nwhat  is  now  the  eastern  edge  of  Arlington \nStreet  was  the  Back  Bay, where  boats  sailed  and \n\n88 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nwhere,  in  the  cold  winter,  men  and  boys  cut \nholes  in  the  ice,  and  erecting  a  canvas  screen \njust  large  enough  to  shelter  them  from  the \nsweep  of  the  wind,  stood  spearing  eels  with \nwhich  the  Bay  abounded. \n\nThe  beautiful  Public  Garden  as  it  is  to-day \nhas  been  made  use  of  scenically  by  practically \nevery  writer  of  Boston  fiction  —  \"  my  Garden,\" \nas  the  Autocrat  loved  to  call  it  with  that  sense \nof  proprietorship  so  strong  in  him  where  his \nbeloved  city  was  concerned. \n\nTo  enter  it  at  the  corner  of  Beacon  and \nCharles  Streets  is  to  come  at  once  upon  the \nBeacon  Street  path  which  Alice  and  Dan \n( H  owells's  April  Hopes )  paced  so  slowly  when, \ninstead  of  taking  his  Cambridge  car,  Dan  ling- \nered in  rapturous  enjoyment  of  her  society. \n\"  The  benches  on  either  side  were  filled  with \nnurse-maids  in  charge  of  baby-carriages,  and  of \nyoung  children  who  were  digging  in  the  sand \nwith  their  little  beach  shovels,  and  playing  their \ngames  back  and  forth  across  the  walk  unre- \nbuked  by  the  indulgent  policeman.    A  number \n\ns9 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nof  them  had  enclosed  a  square  in  the  middle \nof  the  path  with  four  of  the  benches,  which \nthey  made-believe  was  a  fort.  The  lovers  had \nto  walk  round  it  ;  and  the  children,  chasing  one \nanother,  dashed  into  them  headlong,  or,  back- \ning off  from  pursuit,  bumped  up  against  them. \nThey  did  not  seem  to  know  it,  but  walked  slowly \non  without  noticing  ;  they  were  not  aware  of  an \noccasional  benchful  of  rather  shabby  young \nfellows  who  stared  hard  at  the  stylish  girl  and \nwell-dressed  vouno;  man  talking  together  in \nsuch  intense  low  tones,  with  rapid  interchange \nof  radiant  glances.\"  Alice,  Mr.  Howells  tells \nus  later  on,  felt  out  of  the  social  frame  in  stroll- \ning here,  for  this  garden  path  \"  was  really  only \na  shade  better  than  the  Beacon  Street  Mall  of \nthe  Common.\" \n\nOther  young  people  whose  love  affairs  were \nmore  or  less  interwoven  with  the  garden  are \nfound  in  Mr.  Bates's  Love  In  a  Cloud.  Every- \nbody in  their  set  knew  perfectly  well,  says  the \nnovelist,  that  Jack  Xeligage  had  been  in  love \nwith  Alice  Endicott  from  the  days  when  they \n\n9o \n\n\n91 \n\n\ni  ■  :  i \n\n?_'-'.:       :  -=.  -  i  - '  7 \n\n\n:      -    :  \"--r~  :        :  :.ivt  \"    nr:e: \n\n• :  -     : : : -       ^      .  :  : :  r  :: \n\n:     .-     .7  \".v \nof  unusual  constar. \n\nMost  of  the  characters        Bos \n:.--r:r  ~ \nbut  few.  and  they  are  rare! \ni;     \".  ii7.-  :     -:    r.    .  ■  -    it-     7-      :: \n\n_ \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nelists  to  so  far  diverge  from  the  social  code  as \nto  sit  there.  Mrs.  Daintry  (Henry  James's  A \nXcw  England  Winter)  always  crossed  the \nGarden  in  going  from  her  home  on  the  \"  new \nland\"  to  Miss  Lucretia  Daintry's  on  \"the  hill,\" \nand  we  are  given  here  a  brief  glimpse  of  the \nwinter  aspect  of  the  garden  —  the  denuded \nbushes,  the  solid  pond,  and  the  plank-covered \nwalks,  the  exaggerated  bridge  and  the  patriotic \nstatues. \n\nMore  attractive  is  it  as  it  appeared  to  Craig- \nhead (  Truth  Dexter)  crossing  it  from  Arling- \nton Street  on  his  way  from  Mrs.  Adams's,  in \nBeacon  Street,  \"  when  the  flower-beds  were \nbrilliant  with  crocuses,  tulips  and  hyacinths. \nThe  smell  of  the  upturned  earth  was  pungent \nwith  life.  In  a  single  night  Spring's  bridal \ntunic  had  by  fairy  looms  been  woven.\"  These \nbright  patches  of  flowers  are  what  Dr.  Holmes \ncalled  \"  the  pretty-behaved  flower-beds  \"  which \nhe  did  not  admire  so  much  as  nature  in  a  more \nriotous  mood. \n\nMarion  Crawford,    in  An  American  Poiiti- \n\n94 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\ncian,  also  comments  on  the  carpet  of  bright \nflowers.  Harrington,  the  politician,  on  return- \ning to  Boston  in  the  late  spring,  found  the \ngarden  a  delight.  \"  The  breath  of  spring  has \nbeen  everywhere,  and  the  haze  of  the  hot  sum- \nmer is  ripening  the  buds  that  the  spring  has \nbrought  out.  .  .  .  There  is  a  smell  of  violets \nand  flowers  in  the  warm  air,  and  down  on  the \nlittle  pond  the  swan-shaped  boats  are  paddling \nabout  with  their  cargoes  of  merry  children  and \ncalico  nursery  maids,  while  the  Irish  boys  look \non  from  the  banks  and  throw  pebbles  when  the \npolicemen  are  not  looking,  wishing  they  had \nthe  spare  coin  necessary  to  embark  for  a  ten \nminutes  voyage  on  the  mimic  sea.\" \n\nVirginia  Kent  (Pier's  The  Sentimentalists), \na  westerner,  be  it  understood,  is  one  of  the \nfictitious  persons  who  took  great  pleasure  in \nstrolling1  about  and  sitting  in  the  Garden.  Near \nthe  Commonwealth  Avenue  gate  it  is  pleasant \nto  sit  down  on  a  bench  for  a  moment  where  she \nlingered  \"  to  watch  the  gardeners  who  were \ntaking  the  stocks  out  of  a  flower-bed  and  lay- \n\n95 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLEs \n\n\ning  them  in  a  wheel- \nbarrow, then  mould- \ning and  smoothing \nthe  earth.  .  .  .  She \ncontrasted  thesegood \nworkmen  with  the \nmen  sitting  about  on  d \nbene;.  a  ding \n\nnewspapers,  and  won- \ndered what  occupa- \ntion they  could  ha \nit  seemed  to  her  a \nwitless  sort  of  life.  It \ndid  not  occur  to  her  that  most  of  them  wen; \n\nling  the  >apers  in  search  of  occupation. \n\nhington  bestrode  his  fretful  and  apparently \n\nharness-hampered  steed  on  one  side  of  her;  in \n\nthe  centre  of  a  fountain  on  the  other  side  stood \n\n.all,  all  but  nude  woman,  with  the  extreme \nof  bashfulness  that   a  mere    frag- \nment of  clothing  permits  one  to  assume.     And \nr  through  the  sculptor's  cynical  design, \nor   >  on   of  his  want  of  skill,  the  expres- \n\n-/• \n\n\n.-.monweal' \n\nnue.    .    .    .    Washington    tx \n\nful  and  apparently  K \n\n/f  her.\" \n\n—  /'/  i \n\n\nI N       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\n\nsion  seemed  to  be  of \nan  emotion  distinctly \n\nperfunctory  and  af- \nfected. .  .  .  From  the \npond  near  by  came \nthe  frequent  tapping \nof  a  gong-  as  the \nswan-boats,  with  gay \nawnings,  made  their \nleisurely  circuits  and \ndischarged  the  tour- \nist-. Virginia \nthought  the  Garden \nrather  pretty  and  just  absurd  enough  to  be  in- \nteresting—  she  halt  expected  to  see  a  banana \ntree  grafted  onto  a  beech  —  just  to  be  decora- \ntively  unique,  and  the  gardeners,  she  said,  had \ncontrived  to  make  the  statues  seem  designed  for \ncentres  and  reliefs  to  their  flower  schemes. \nShe  thought  there  couldn't  be  too  many  statues \n—  \"the  good  ones  are  beautiful  and  the  bad \nones  are  quaint.  They're  different  from  bad \npoetry  or  bad  pictures.\" \n\n97 \n\n\n\"  Hartley,  who  was  already  be- \nginning to  get  up  a  taste  for  art. \nboldly  stopped  and  praised  the \nVenus.\" — Hi  ■  \"A     .' \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nWestward  from  the  bench  where  Virginia \nwas  sitting  is  the  Ether  Monument  mentioned \nin  Truth  Dexter,  while  the  Washington  and \nVenus  statues  in  close  proximity  to  her  are \nmany  times  alluded  to  in  Mr.  Howells's  fiction, \nnotably  in  The  Minister  s  Charge,  where  we \nlearn  that  Barker,  for  the  first  time  in  the  Gar- \nden, observed  the  ima^e  of  Washington  on \nhorseback  and  a  naked  woman  in  a  granite \nbasin,  which  he  thought  ought  not  to  be  al- \nlowed there —  the  Venus  shocked  his  inexperi- \nence. Bartley  Hubbard  (A  Modern  Inst  a  nee), \nhowever,  who  was  already  beginning  to  get  up \na  taste  for  art,  boldly  stopped  and  praised  the \nVenus.  He  and  Marcia  during  their  first \nmonths  in  Boston  frequently  resorted  to  the \nGarden,  where  they  admired  the  bridge  and \nthe  rockwork  and  the  statues. \n\nFord  ( The  Undiscovered  Country),  who \nstrolled  here  when  the  whole  precinct  rested  in \npatrician  insensibility  to  the  plebeian  hour  of \nseven,  surprised  the  marble  Venus  without  her \nshower    on,   but   he   never   sat  by  the  statue, \n\n\nJ3.Q      «5 \n\n\n■m \n\n\n~  •£  •« \n\n\nSLS»  i \n\ns \n\n\n<u \n\n\n.  « \n\n\n£   be \n\n\n99 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\npreferring-  a  bench  under  the  Kilmarnock  wil- \nlows by  the  pond.  These  beautiful  willows \nare  described  in  The  Sentimentalists,  and  un- \nder one  of  them  we  find  Hartwell,  the  hero  of \nHer  Boston  Experiences,  alone  on  a  bench  — \ndriven  to  so  shocking:  a  disregard  of  the  con- \nventionalities  by  desperation.  \"  I  had  no \nidea,\"  exclaims  the  heroine,  discovering  him \nthere,  \"a  Bostonian  with  connections  would \ndo  anything-  so  plebeian  as  to  sit  in  the  Public \nGarden  on  a  bench.\"  She  and  one  or  two  of \nher  friends  were  venturesome  enough  to  sit \nthere  occasionally,  but  they  were  not  Bosto- \nnians. \n\nBounding  the  Garden  on  the  east  is  Charles \nStreet,  and  returning  to  this  thoroughfare  we \nget  into  step  with  Graham  (  Elisa  Orne  White's \nMiss  Brooks),  who,  walking  there  with  Janet \nunexpectedly,  in  a  desperate  mood  tells  her \nthat  he  loves  her.  Great  is  his  amazement \nwhen  she  replies  :  \"  I  have  cared  for  you  a \nlong  time.  When  I  am  with  you  I  am  happy, \nit  does  not  matter  where  we  are  ;  and  when   I \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nam  away  from  you,  it  is  the  feeling  that  you \nare  in  the  world  too,  belonoqnof  to  me  in  a \ncertain  sense,  because  you  are  my  friend,  that \nmakes  the  best  part  of  all  my  days.\"  This  is \none  of  the  few  events  in  Boston  fiction  which \noccurs  out-of-doors,  city  life,  naturally,  not \nlending  itself  to  much  action  in  the  open  be- \nyond the  casual  meeting  of  characters  as  they \ntraverse  the  streets. \n\nAt  the  corner  of  Charles  and  Boylston \nStreets  is  the  apothecary's  window  before \nwhich  dear  old  Miss  Birdseye  (  The  Bostonians), \nwho  was  always  round  the  streets,  stood  with \nBasil  Ransom,  the  Mississippian,  waiting  for \nher  South  End  car —  she,  the  while,  protesting \nvigourously  against  the  idea  that  a  gentleman \nfrom  the  South  should  pretend  to  teach  an  old \nabolitionist  the  mysteries  of  Boston. \n\nThis  corner  and  the  Providence  station  near \nby  are  identified  with  the  delightful,  fond-of- \nentertainments  Susan  and  her  original  escort \n(Susans  Escort)  whom  the  humour  of  Dr. \nHale  has  made  for  us.      Susan,  finding  it  un- \n\n\niu3 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\npleasant  to  go  about  alone  at  night  in  Boston, \nconceived  the  idea  of  making  herself  an  escort \nafter  this  fashion  :    \"  She  bought  a  cheap  and \n\n\n\"...  They  stood  in  the  sun,  with  their  backs \nagainst  an  apothecary's  window.\" — James's  \"  The \n\nBostoiiians.\" \n\n\nlight  gossamer  overcoat,  a  travelling  cap,  a \ndozen  toy  masks  and  a  pair  of  badly  worn \ncheck  pantaloons.  She  also  bought  rattan \nenough,  and  the  wire  of  hoop-skirts,  for  her \npurpose.   She  sewed  to  the  bottom  of  the  pan- \n\n105 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ntaloons  two  arctics.  From  the  rattan,  with  an \nold  umbrella  slide,  she  made  a  backbone  and \ntwo  available  legs  to  support  the  mackintosh, \nand  on  the  top  of  the  backbone  she  could  ad- \njust either  of  the  masks  which  she  preferred \nwith  the  travelling  cap.  The  whole  thing \nwould  shut  together  like  a  travelling  easel. \nThe  mask  would  go  into  her  leather  bag, \nwhich,  like  others  of  her  sex,  she  carried  every- \nwhere. The  rest  could  then  be  slid  into  a \nlong  umbrella  case.''  Her  adventures  with \nthis  dummy  are  inimitably  told  in  the  story,  in \nwhich  we  are  assured  that  in  the  halcyon  days  of \n\"the  escort's\"  first  success  Susan  enjoyed  her \nwinter  of  entertainments  as  she  had  never  en- \njoyed a  winter  before.  For,  if  you  choose,  in \nBoston,  says  Dr.  Hale,  \"there  is  nothing  you \nmay  not  see  and  hear  and  know  and  under- \nstand in  the  heavens  above,  or  the  earth  be- \nneath, or  the  waters  that  are  supposed  to  be \nunder  the  earth.\"  The  clever  Susan,  who \nlived  in  the  suburbs  on  the  Providence  road, \nalways  on  arriving  at  the  station  stepped  out \n\n106 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nto  that  sheltered  lee  where  you  wait  for  Cam- \nbridge Street  cars  and  opened  up  her  new \nfriend  to   his  own  proportions.      It   is  simple \n\n\nThe  home  of  Mrs,  Mesh  in  Arlington  Street. \n— James's  \"A  N\"ew  England  Winter.\" \n\nenough  to  identify   this  starting-point  of  hers \noutside  of  the  now  abandoned  station. \n\nCraighead  [Truth  Dexter),  returning  from \nAlabama,  came  in  to  Boston  at  the  Providence \nStation  which  loomed  positively  palatial  to  the \n\n107 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\nreturning  traveller.  The  vista  of  the  Public \nGarden  through  the  narrow  framing  of  Church \nStreet,  the  objurgations  of  rival  cab-drivers, \nthe  long  line  of  electric  cars  crawling  about  the \ncorner  of  Charles  like  a  migration  of  saturnian \n\nants,  and  the  tireless \ncurrent  of  uncon- \ncerned humanity \npouring  through  the \nchannel  of  Boylston, \n—  all  combined  to \nthrill  him  with  a  re- \nturning- sense  of  vital- \nity  and  power.  Truth \nalso  £Ot  her  first  im- \npressions  of  the  city \nhere.  Ford  and  Phil- \nlips (Howells's  The \nUnd  red    Country)    lodged    in   Bovlston \n\nStreet  which  runs  beside  the  Garden  on  the \nsouth.  At  the  corner  of  Bovlston  and  Arling- \nton  Streets,  facing  the  Garden,  is  the  Arlington \nStreet  church  referred  to  in  the  same  novel. \n\n\n\"  Mrs.  Adams  lived  in  that  s \n\nart  of  Beacon  Street  which \nfashionable  residents  are  abandon- \n:ashionable  dressma\"-. \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nBeyond  this,  farther  down  the  street,  we  pass \nthe  residence  of  Mrs.  Mesh  (James's  A  New \nEngland  Winter),  with  whom  Rachel  Torrance \nspent  the  winter  and  where  that  most  tiresome \nof  prigs  Florimond  Daintry,  was  frequently \nto  be  found.  Just  around  the  corner,  east- \nward, is  the  residence  described  as  Mrs. \nAdams's  {Truth  Dexter)  \"in  that  sunniest  part \nof  Beacon  Street  which  fashionable  residents \nare  abandoning  to  fashionable  dressmakers, \nsuffering  it  to  connect,  as  it  were,  by  the \nhandle  of  a  dumb-bell,  the  two  aristocratic \nbulks  of  the  Milldam  and  Beacon  Hill.\" \n\nVI.  THE   BACK   BAY \n\nTHE  new  land,  commonly  known  as  the \nBack  Bay,  was  made  in  the  early \nfifties,  when  the  process  of  filling  in \nthe  bay  began,  and  plans  were  drawn  on  which \nwere  laid  out  the  streets  with  names  which \nseem  to  have  been  borrowed  from  the  British \npeerage.  Thirty  years  more  or  less  were  con- \nsumed in  filling  in  the  bay,  with  the  result  that \n\n109 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nit  became  the  Court  End  of  the  city,  fulfilling \nthe  prophecy  of  its  projectors.  But  those  were \nyears  of  dust,  of  rattling  gravel  trains,  of  a  be- \nwilderment of  annoyances  which  drove  more \nthan  one  of  the  steady-going  citizens  into  rural \nretirement,  and  some,  it  is  to  be  feared,  into \nthe  quiet  of  the  grave. \n\nThis  made  land  forms  a  scenic  background \nin  fiction  for  a  dominant  phase  of  modern  Bos- \nton—  neither  literary,  nor  sesthetical,  nor  of  a \ndistinctive  atmosphere,  but  fashionable  and \nup-to-date  on  a  metropolitan  model.  Regard- \ning with  higfh  disfavour  this  section  of  the \ntown,  Mrs.  A.  D.  T.  Whitney  years  ago  wrote \nof  it  (Hitherto):  \"The  Back  Bay  has  been \nfilled  up,  and  a  section  of  Paris  dumped  down \ninto  it.\"  Here  we  find  the  \"  water  side  of \nBeacon  Street\"  and  the  \"sunny  side  of  Com- \nmonwealth Avenue,\"  which,  as  Mr.  Howells \nsays,  mean  so  much  more  than  the  words  say. \nCuriously  enough,  while  the  less  desirable  side \nof  Beacon  Street  is  fashionable, the  same  cannot \nbe  said  of  the  avenue,  where  only  the  \"  sunny \n\n\n^  U     t-, \n\n\nQ \nas \n\no \n\n§5; \n\n< \n\nrt \n\n1- \n\n°   * \n\n> \n\n01 \n\n~52 \n\n< \n\nu \n\n.C^ \n\nX \n\nin \n\nw \n\n3 \nO \n\n\"43   <-> \n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nside,\"  fashionably  speaking\",  is  \"  possible,\"  and \nno  novelist,  intent  upon  picturing  smart  society \nin  the  Hub,  fails  to  be  cognizant  of  these  dis- \ntinctions. \n\nOf  these  two  residential  streets,  Beacon, \nthough  less  beautiful,  is  more  aristocratic. \nFrivolous,  worldly  Beacon  Street,  Mrs.  Farrin- \nder  (James's  The  Bostonians)  called  it,  to  the \nannoyance  of  Olive,  who  hated  to  hear  it  talked \nabout  as  if  it  were  such  a  remarkable  place, \nand  to  live  there  were  a  proof  of  worldly  glory. \nIn  A  New  England  1  Tinier  the  same  novelist \ntells  us  that  Florimond  greatly  admired  this \n(then)  new  street  on  the  artificial  bosom  of  the \nBack  Bay.  \"  The  long  straight  street  lay  air- \ning its  newness  in  the  frosty  day,  and  all  its \nindividual  facades,  with  their  neat,  sharp  or- \nnaments, seemed  to  have  been  scoured,  with  a \nkind  of  friction,  by  the  hard,  salutary  light. \nTheir  brilliant  browns  and  drabs,  their  rosy \nsurfaces  of  brick,  made  a  variety  of  fresh,  vio- \nlent tones,  such  as  Florimond  like  to  memorize, \nand  the  large  clear  windows  of  their  curved \n\n113 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nfronts  faced  each  other  across  the  street,  like \ncandid,  inevitable  eyes.  There  was  something \nalmost  terrible  in  the  windows  ;  Florimond  had \nforgotten  how  vast  and  clean  they  were,  and \nnow,  in  their  sculptured  frames,  the  New  Eng- \nland air  seemed,  like  a  zealous  housewife,  to \npolish  and  preserve  them. \n\nNot  far  from  Arlington  Street  in  Beacon \nwas,  we  imagine,  the  home  of  Mrs.  Sam  Wynd- \nham  (Crawford's  A7i  American  Politician). \nShe  was  a  woman,  the  novelist  says,  who  did \nher  duty  in  the  social  state  in  which  she  was \ncalled  in  Boston,  reserving  the  ricrht  to  do \nmany  things  according  to  her  mood  while  fol- \nlowing most  of  the  established  Beacon  Street \ncustoms.  Beacon  Street  receives  Monday  af- \nternoons, and  all  Boston  came  to  Mrs.  Wynd- \nham's  receptions,  \"  excepting  all  the  other \nladies  who  live  in  Beacon  Street,  and  that  is  a \nvery  considerable  portion  of  Boston,  as  every \nschoolboy  knows.\"  We  are  at  once  told  the \nage  of  Mrs.  Wyndham,  for  \"  it  is  as  easy  for  a \nBostonian  to  conceal  a  question  of  age  as  for  a \n\n114 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\ncrowned  head.  In  a  place  where  one-half  of \nsociety  calls  the  other  half  cousin,  and  went  to \nschool  with  it,  everyone  knows  and  accurately \nremembers  just  how  old  everybody  else  is.\" \nThis  matter  of  cousinship  on  the  Hub  is  also \ncommented  on  by  Mr.  Arlo  Bates  in  Love  In \na  Cloud :  \"  May,  as  it  is  the  moral  duty  of \nevery  self-respecting  Bostonian  to  be,  was  re- \nlated to  everybody  who  was  socially  anybody.\" \nIt  has  been  repeatedly  said  that  Marion \nCrawford  drew  Mrs.  Sam  Wyndham  from  a  cer- \ntain world-renowned  social  leader,  whose  beau- \ntiful home  until  recently  was  on  \"the  water \nside  \"  not  far  from  Arlington  Street,  and  he  is \nnot  the  only  novelist  thus  accused,  for  this  same \nbrilliant  woman  is  at  once  proclaimed  the  pro- \ntotype of  any  feminine  character  of  marked  in- \ndividuality and  social  prominence  who  appears \nin  the  pages  of  Boston  fiction.  Of  course, \nknowingly  says  the  public,  she  is  the  original \nof  Mrs.  Sam  Wyndham,  and  of  Mrs.  Chauncey \nWilson  (Bates's  The  Puritans),  and  did  not \nMiss   Anna   Farquhar   exactly  picture  her  as \n\n115 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nMrs.  Bobby  Short  {Her  Boston  Experiences), \nwho  always  sailed  in  late  to  receptions  with  a \nstring  of  men  in  tow  \"  like  a  graceful  ship  in \nfull  sail  with  several  tuofs  steaming  in  her  wake.\" \nThis  determination  on  the  part  of  the  public \nto  see  in  purely  fictitious  women  an  actual  one \nis  a  little  hard  on  the  supposed  \"  model,\"  and \nthose  novelists  whose  characters  are  the  crea- \ntures of  their  brain. \n\nTo  return  to  the  house  of  Mrs.  Sam  Wynd- \nham,  Crawford  makes  a  most  amusing  comment \nrelative  to  its  number.  \"  It  is  a  peculiarity  of \nBoston  to  put  the  number  of  the  houses  on  the \nback  instead  of  the  front,  so  that  the  only  cer- \ntain course  to  follow  in  searching  for  a  friend \nis  to  reach  the  rear  of  his  house,  by  a  circuit- \nous route  through  side  streets  and  back  alleys, \nand  then,  having  fixed  the  exact  position  of  his \nresidence  by  astronomical  observation,  to  re- \nturn to  the  front  and  enquire  for  him.  It  is \ntrue  that  even  then  one  is  frequently  mistaken, \nbut  there  is  nothino-  else  to  be  done.\" \n\nEvidently  Mrs.  Sam  Wyndham  did  not,  like \n\n116 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nMrs.  Daintry  (James's  A  New  England  Win- \nter), follow  the  old  Boston  custom  of  ornament- \ning her  door  with  a  large  silver  plate,  the \nexhibition  of  which  Mrs.  Daintry  preferred  to \nthe  more  distinguished  modern  fashion  of  sup- \npressing the  domiciliary  label.  The  Autocrat \nmakes  mention  of  these  Beacon  Street  door \nplates,  which  in  his  day  were  a  matter  of \ncourse. \n\nIn  the  neighbourhood  of  Mrs.  Sam  Wynd- \nham  lived  Miss  Schenectady,  at  whose  house \nwe  first  meet  John  Harrington,  who  is  the \nAmerican  politician  which  gives  the  novel  its \ntitle.  This  Harrington,  says  his  creator,  was \na  constant  source  of  interest,  and  not  infre- \nquently of  terror,  to  the  good  town  of  Boston. \n\"  True,  he  was  a  Bostonian  himself,  a  chip  of \nthe  old  block,  whose  progenitors  had  lived  in \nSalem,  and  whose  very  name  breathed  Pilgrim \nmemories.  He  even  had  a  tea-pot  that  had \ncome  over  in  the  Mayflower.  This  was  greatly \nvenerated,  and  whenever  John  Harrington  said \nanything  more  than  usually  modern  his  friends \n\n117 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nbrandished  the  tea-pot,  morally  speaking,  in \nhis  defense,  and  put  it  in  the  clouds  as  a  kind \nof  rainbow —  a  promise  that  Puritan  blood \ncould  not  go  wrong.  Nevertheless,  Harring- \nton continued  to  startle  his  fellow-townsmen \nby  his  writings  and  sayings,  so  that  many  of \nthe  grave  sort  shook  their  heads  and  swore \nthat  he  sympathized  with  the  Irish  and  be- \nlieved in  Chinese  labor.\" \n\nBeacon  Street  was  the  locality  in  which  lived \nBayard's  uncle,  Mr.  Hermon  Worcester  (Miss \nPhelps's  A  Singular  Life),  though  the  author \nsays  she  had,  and  never  does  have,  for  the \nhomes  of  her  characters  any  particular  houses \nin  mind.  Bayard,  she  has  told  us  in  her  Chap- \nter From  a.  Life,  is  her  dearest  hero. \n\nThe  house  of  most  interest  as  we  stroll  down \nthe  water  side  of  Beacon  Street  is  No.  296, \nonce  the  home  of  the  Autocrat  and  now  of \nhis  son  Judge  Holmes.  Mr.  Howells,  for  three \nyears  his  near  neighbour,opens  the  door  for  us \nin  a  charming  fashion  {Literary  Friends  and \nAcquaintance),  and    having    conducted  us  to \n\n118 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nthe  library,  shows  us  the  view  from  the  win- \ndow as  the  Autocrat  saw  and  loved  it.  \"  He \nsaid  that  you  could  count  fourteen  towns  and \nvillages  in  the  compass  of  that  view,  with  the \nthree  conspicuous  monuments  accenting  the \ndifferent  attractions  of  it  :  the  tower  of  Me- \nmorial Hall  at  Harvard  ;  the  obelisk  on  Bun- \nker Bill  ;  and  in  the  centre  of  the  picture  that \nbulk  of  Tufts  College  which  he  said  he  ex- \npected to  greet  his  eyes  the  first  thing  when \nhe  opened  them  in  the  other  world.  But  the \nprospect,  though  generally  the  same,  had  cer- \ntain precious  differences  for  each  of  us,  which \nI  have  no  doubt  he  valued  himself  as  much \nupon  as  I  did.  I  have  a  notion  that  he  fan- \ncied these  were  to  be  enjoyed  best  in  his \nlibrary  through  two  oval  panes  let  into  the  bay \nthere  apart  from  the  windows,  for  he  was  apt \nto  make  you  come  and  look  out  of  them  if  you \ngot  to  talking  of  the  view  before  you  left. \n\nIn  this  pleasant  study  he  lived  among  the \nbooks,  which  seemed  to  multiply  from  case  to \ncase  and  shelf  to  shelf,  and  climb  from  floor  to \n\n119 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nceiling.      Everything   was  in  exquisite  order, \nand  the  desk  where   he  wrote  was  as  scrupu- \n\n\n- \n\n\n296  BEACON  STREET  (THE   OVAL  DOORWAY),   THE \n\nHOME  OF  \"  THE  AUTOCRAT  \" \n\n302,   THE  HOME  OF  MR.   HOWEl  I  - \n\n\"When  you  come  to  the  Back  Bar,  give  me  the \nwater  side  of  Beacon  Street.\" — ffowells's  \"The  Rise \nof  Silas  Lap  ham.\" \n\nlously  neat  as  if  the  sloven  disarray  of  most \nauthors'  desks  were  impossible  to  him.  He \nhad  a  number  of  ingrenious  little  contrivances \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nfor  helping  his  work,  which  he  liked  to  show \nyou  ;  for  a  time  a  revolving  bookcase  at  the \ncorner  of  his  desk  seemed  to  be  his  pet  ;  and \nafter  that  came  his  fountain  pen,  which  he  used \nwith  due  observance  of  its  fountain  principle, \nthough  he  was  tolerant  of  me  when  I  said  I \nalways  dipped  mine  in  the  inkstand  ;  it  was  a \nmerit  in  his  eyes  to  use  a  fountain  pen  in  any- \nwise. After  you  had  gone  over  these  objects \nwith  him,  and  perhaps  taken  a  peep  at  some- \nthing he  was  examining  through  his  micro- \nscope, he  sat  down  at  one  corner  of  his  hearth, \nand  invited  you  to  an  easy  chair  at  the  other.\" \n\nAt  No.  302,  just  below  the  Autocrats,  is  the \nhouse  occupied  by  Mr.  Howells,  in  the  library \nof  which  he  wrote  much  of  his  later  Boston \nfiction.  He  had  this  block  in  mind  in  describ- \ning the  home  of  Miss  Kingsbury  (A  Woman's \nReason),  and  also  the  site  of  the  ill-fated  man- \nsion of  Col.  Lapham  {The  Rise  of  Silas  Lap- \nham).  \"  When  you  come  to  the  Back  Bay,\" \nsaid  the  Colonel  to  young  Corey  while  showing \nhim  over  the  house,  \"give  me  the  water  side \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nof  Beacon  Street.  .  .  .  The  Bay  spreads  its \nglassy  sheet  before  them,  empty  but  for  a  few- \nsmall  boats  and  a  large  schooner,  with  her  sails \nclose-furled  and  dripping  like  snow  from  her \nspars,  which  a  tug  was  rapidly  towing  toward \n\n\n\"  Marlborough,  a  straight,  long  street  with \nhouses  just  alike.\" — ffowells's  \"  The  Minister's \nCharged \n\n\nCambridge.  The  carpentry  of  that  city,  em- \nbanked and  embowered  in  foliage,  shared  the \npicturesqueness  of  Charlestown  in  the  dis- \ntance.\" \n\nParallel  to  and  one  block  south  of  Beacon \nStreet  is  Marlborough,  \"  a  straight,  long  street, \nwith  houses  just  alike  on  both  sides  and  bits \nof  grass  before  them,\"  called  by  Mr.  Howells. \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nBolingbrook  in  describing  it  as  the  street  in \nwhich  lived  the  Rev.  Mr.  Sewell,  whom  the \nnovelist  has  intimately  involved  in  the  affairs \nof  Silas  Lapham  and  in  The  Minister  s  Charge. \n\n\n\" — theyneared  Mrs.  Rangeley's  house  on  Marl- \nborough Street.\" — Arlo  Bates's  \"  The  Puri- \ntans.\" \n\n\nHalf  a  block  away  lived  Miss  Vane,  of  the  lat- \nter novel,  and  somewhere  in  this  street  lived \nMrs.  Rangeley  (Bates's  The  Puritans),  where \nso  much  that  was  eventful  happened  to  Mau- \nrice Wynne. \n\nAt  No.  459  Marlborough  Street  is  the  town \nhouse  of  Mr.  J.  F.  Stimson,  the   novelist  and \n\n123 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\ny-^                     i \n\ntWfll \n\np^H \n\ni \ni \n\nThe  home  of  the  Maxwells  on \nthe  \"  sunny  side \"  of  Common- \nwealth Avenue.  —  Eliza  Orne \nWhite  s  \"Miss  Brooks\" \n\n\nauthor  of  Pirate \nGold,  the  characters \nof  which  are  old \nfriends,  many  of \nwhose  haunts  and \nhomes  we  have  dis- \ncovered in  our  ram- \nbles. \n\nCommonwealth \nAvenue,  or  in  the \nvernacular,  \"the  Ave- \nnue,\" with  its  beauti- \nful park  through  the  centre,  is  next  in  impor- \ntance to  Beacon  Street  in  the  pages  of  Boston \nfiction.  We  know  that  the  Maxwells  (Miss \nBrooks)  lived  there,  as  did  the  Rowans  and  Dr. \nMcDowell  (The  Sentimentalists*)  ;  so,  too,  did \nthe  Chauncey  Wilsons  (The  Puritans),  Mrs. \nWiley  {Truth  Dexte?-),  we  suspect,  and  the \ninconsequent  Grangers  (Her  Boston  Experi- \nences) were  quite  content  with  it  when  they \nmight  have  lived  in  Beacon  Street  ! \n\nAll  these  persons  being  fashionables,  lived \n124 \n\n\nBOSTON \n\non  \"  the  sunny  side  \" \n—  the  Maxwells  be- \ntween Arlington  and \nBerkeley  Streets,  in \na  beautiful  vine-cov- \nered house,  while  be- \nlow them  is  the  gray \nstone  dwelling  of  the \nRowans  —  the  girl, \n'  u  /u  W.,J     but  not  her  brother, \n\nThe  home  of  the  Chauncey  \\\\  ll- \n\nsons— at  the  corner  of    Common-  Qne  Qr    t]le  most   pro- \nwealth  Avenue  and  Hereford  Street.  l \n\n—Arlo  Bates's  \"  The  Puritans.\"  nOUHCed  of  TkcScilti- \n\nmentalists.  Indeed,  her  temperament  is  re- \nsponsible for  the  fact  that  the  title  of  Mr.  Pier's \nnovel  is  plural  rather  than  singular.  It  was \norio-inallv  his  intention  to  build  this  story \nmainly  around  his  hero,  Vernon  Kent,  but \nFrances  Rowan  developed  such  an  excess  of \nsentimentality,  and  Mrs.  Kent  became  so  in- \nsistent that  a  change  of  title  was  necessary. \nIn  Mrs.  Kent  we  have  a  case  of  a  character \ndominating  her  creator.  She  was  intended \nto  play   a    clever    second   to  her  son,  instead \n\n125 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\nof  which  she  showed  a  decided  preference \nfor  the  centre  of  the  stage,  which  she  kept \nwith  such  persistence  that  Mr.  Pier  was \nforced  to  let  her  take  things  into  her  own \nhands,  as  a  result  of  which  she  is  one  of  the \n\n\n■%-;,  rW \n\n\nW&\"* \n\n\n■k^ktimii \n\n\nmost  interesting  women \nto-day  in  Boston  fiction. \nAt  the  corner  of  the \nAvenue  and  Hereford \nStreet  we  find  the  im- \nposing house  described \nby  Mr.  Bates  in  The< \nPuritans  as  the  home  of \nthe  Chauncey  Wilsons. \n\nTHK    AVENUE    THROUGH    THE  ^Jfl    ll\\Q    pTOpeT    SlCie    OI \n\nthe  Avenue  with  a  regal \n\n\"  Mrs.  Daintry  was  very  fond \n\nof  this  beautiful   prospect.\"—  front  of  marble  and  with \n\nJames's  \"A  New  England  win- \nter:' balconies    of     wrought \n\niron  before  the  wide  windows  above,  one  of  es- \npecially elaborate  workmanship  having  once \nadorned  the  front  of  the  palace  of  the  Tuileries. \nPillars  of  verd  antique  stood  on  either  side  of  the \ndoorway,  as  if  it  were  the  portal  of  a  temple.\" \n«  126 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nTurninof  now  to  stroll  down  the  Avenue \nthrough  the  park,  we  come  upon  the  much  dis- \ncussed and  much  despised  statues  of  states- \nmen—  one  for  every  block,  to  which  Virginia \n\n\nTHE    ST.   BOTOLPH    CLUB NO.   2    NEWBURY \n\n\nKent  calls  Ballington's  attention.  Mr.  Bates's \ncharacters  in  The  Philistines  were  greatly  agi- \ntated over  plans  for  a  new  statue,  about  which \nthey  had  conflicting  and  most  violent  opinions, \nwhich  leads  the  author  to  say:  \"The  inner \nhistory  of  the  effigies  which  in  Boston  do  duty \nas  statues  would  be  most  interesting  reading, \n\n127 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBL)    - \n\namusing  or  depressing  as  ged  to \n\ntake  it.      To  know  what  causes  led  to  the  pro- \n\n\ni  — \n\n- \n\n.  ■    -    — \n\n\nduction  and  then  to  the  erection  of  these  mon- \nstrosities could  hardly  fail  to  be  instructive, \nalthough    the    knowledge    might    be    rather \n\n:;• \n\n\nz   I \n\n\n•-   L \n\n~Z  — \n\n\n-   > \n■-    - \n\n\n-  -  J:- \n\n-  Z.    x \n\n\n<- \n\n\n£  2  -« \n\n\n-~ \n\n\n129 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\ndreary.\"  The  Autocrat,  too,  enters  his  protest \nwhen  he  tells  us  that  he  and  his  fellow-citizens \nhave  had  their  sensibilities  greatly  worked \nupon,  their  patriotism  chilled  and  their  local \npride  outraged  by  the  monstrosities  which  had \nbeen  allowed  to  deform  their  beautiful  public \ngrounds. \n\nFrom  the  avenue  turning  into  Berkeley  and \nthence  into  Newbury  Street,  we  find  at  Num- \nber 2  the  St.  Botolph  Club,  where  Watson \nand  Willis  (Aldrich's  Goliath)  used  to  play  bil- \nliards, and  members  of  which  were  Craighead \nand  Norton  (  TrutJi  Dexter).  But  it  becomes \nbetter  known  to  us  through  the  pages  of  Mr. \nBates's  fiction,  notably  The  Pagans  —  who \nwere  all  members  —  and  The  Philistines,  in \nboth  of  which  novels  it  figures  under  the  dis- \nguise of  the  St.  Filipe  Club  —  \"which  for \nmore  than  a  quarter  of  a  century  had  main- \ntained the  reputation  of  leading  in  matters  of \nart  and  literature.\" \n\nFarther  down  in  the  same  street  lived  Mrs. \nDaintry  (James's   A   New  England   Winter), \n\n131 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nand  around  the  corner  from  her  in  Clarendon \nStreet,  her  daughter  Joanna  and  her  six  chil- \ndren ;  but  Clarendon  Street  is  of  greater  fic- \ntional interest  than  this,  for  at  the  corner  of \nNewbury  we  come  upon  the  home  of  the  Rev. \nMr.  Strathmore  [The  Puritans),  a  house \nknown  through  the  country  as  the  home  of  the \ngreat  Bishop  Brooks.  If  it  was  not  Mr. \nBates's  intention  to  draw  Mr.  Strathmore \nfrom  the  celebrated  bishop,  he  has,  neverthe- \nless, unconsciously  done  it  with  so  sympathetic \na  touch  that  it  is  impossible  not  to  recall  him \nin  every  line.  \"Strathmore  was  of  commanding \npresence  ...  a  man  who  appealed  strongly  to \nthe  common  heart,  both  by  his  sympathy  and \nby  flexibility  of  character  and  temperament, \nwhich  made  it  impossible  for  him  to  be  repel- \nlently  stern  or  austere.  He  preached  high \nideals  ...  he  demanded  high  purpose  and  high \nlife,  noble  aims  and  unfailing  charity  ...  he  was \nlooked  up  to  by  the  general  public  as  a  great \nspiritual  leader,  and  loved  with  an  affection \nexceedingly  rare  in  this  unpriestly  age.\" \n\n132 \n\n\n\"  The  lovely  day  became  a  still  lovelier  day  within,  enriched  by \nthe  dyes  of  the  stained  windows  through  which  it  streamed.\" — \nHowells 's  \"April  Hopes.\" \n\n\n133 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nAdjacent  to  this  low  vine-covered  house  is \nthe  Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology \nwhere  Susan  ( E.  E.  Hale's  Susans  Escort) \nattended  lectures  and  from  which  were  gradu- \nated the  young  men  in  Miss  Reed's  Miss \nTheodora.  From  the  corner  where  we  are \nstanding  stretches  out  to  the  right  of  us \nCopley  Square,  which,  with  its  beautiful  Trinity \nChurch,  Art  Museum,  Public  Library  and  New \nOld  South  Church,  combine,  says  Margaret \nAlston,  to  form  the  most  interesting  Square \narchitecturally  in  America.  Trinity,  with  its \ngreat  domed  interior,  harmonious  tones,  and \npeaceful  sanctity,  called  to  her  mind  the  char- \nacter of  the  man  who  had  unconsciously  built \nthe  glory  of  this  edifice. \n\nHere  the  consecration  of  Mr.  Strathmore \n{The  Puritans)  took  place  on  a  \"beautiful \nJune  day,  and  was  as  imposing  a  function  in \nits  line  as  Boston  had  ever  seen.  Trinity  was \ncrowded  to  over-flowing,  and  if  the  ceremonv \nwas  less  imposing  than  would  have  been  the \ninduction  of  a  Catholic  bishop,  it  was  impres- \nts \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nsive  and  dignified.  The  sunlight  filtering \nthrough  the  windows  of  stained  glass  splashed \nfantastic  colours  over  the  long  surpliced  train \nwhich  wound  through  the  aisles  down  to  the \nchancel,  singing  processionals  of  joyous  hope  ; \nthe  air  was  full  of  the  sense  of  solemn  meaning  ; \nthe  organ  pealed  ;  the  noble  words  of  the  fine \nold  ritual  spoke  to  the  hearts  of  the  hearers, \nand  carried  their  message  of  a  faith  which  took \nhold  upon  the  unseen.  Above  all  the  circum- \nstance, the  form,  the  conventions,  the  creeds, \nrose  the  spirit  of  the  worshipers,  uplifted  by \nthe  thrilling  realization  of  the  outpouring  of \nthe  soul  of  humanity  before  the  unknown \nEternal.\" \n\nMiss  Theodora's  Earnest  attended  service \nhere  Sunday  afternoons  content  to  stand  for \nan  hour  in  the  crowded  aisle  to  hear  the  up- \nlifting word  of  the  great  preacher,  while \nHowells  gives  us  a  picture  of  its  interior \nwhen  his  hero  and  heroine  of  April  Hopes \nare  finally  married  there. \n\nThese    two    young    people,   earlier    in    the \n,  136 \n\n\nC3 \n\n8 \n\n... \n\nV \n\n> \n\n~ \n\n^ \n\nz \n\nE \n\n<o \n\n: \n\n°q \n\n■■■ \n\n*» \n\nin \n\n•s. \n\n^ \n\no  So \n\n\n.S  « \n\n—  o \n\n\nj=  .a \n-    £ \n\n\n137 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nnovel  had  a  chance  encounter  at  the  Museum \nof  Fine  Arts  near  by,  a  place  also  identified \nwith  the  Bartley  Hubbards  (A  Modern  In- \nstance), who,  sometimes,  going  there  in  their \nearly  Boston   days,   \"  found   a  pleasure  in  the \n\n\n\"  How  strange  that  we  should  meet  at  the \nMuseum.\" — Howells\" s  \"April  Hopes.\" \n\n\nworst  things  which  the  best  never  afterward \neave  them.\"  The  conventional  Edith  Cald- \nwell  is  persuaded  by  her  fiance,  Fenton, — \nthat  Pagan  of  The  Pagans,  to  sit  awhile  in  the \npicture  gallery  of  the  Art  Museum  while  he \nassures  her  they  are  in  no  danger  of  being \nseen   doing    anything    so   unconventional,    for \n\n139 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nthe  Museum  \"is  the  most  solitary  place  in  the \ncity. \n\nThe  new  Public  Library,  the  crowning \npossession  of  Boston,  plays  a  conspicuous \npart  in  Her  Boston  Experiences,  for  there  in \nBates  Hall  occurred  the  incident  on  which  the \nromance  of  the  story  is  built.  Truth  Dexter, \nin  her  bewildering  attempt  to  digest  Boston \ncame  frequently  to  the  Library  where,  we  are \ntold,  Sargent's  celebrated  decorations  affected \nher  strangely.  \"  I  don't  ever  expect  to  know \nwhat  it  all  means,\"  she  said  earnestly.  \"  Per- \nhaps that's  why  I  never  get  tired  of  studying  it. \nAll  that  chaotic  mystery  of  wings  and  lions, \nand  shadowy  creatures  makes  you  try  to  re- \nmember something  that  must  have  been  a<Jes \nand  ages  ago,  and  just  when  your  heart \naches  so  that  it  seems  about  to  burst  and \nspill  out  the  secret,  then  the  old  prophets \nstep  out  from  their  places,  and  tell  you  that \nthere  is  no  use  trying.  I  can't  keep  away \nfrom  it.\" \n\nStudious  Mr.  Jenks  (Sawyer's  A  Local \n140 \n\n\n\" — the  latter-day  edition  of  the  historic  Old  South  Church. \nMargaret  Alls  ton's  \"Her  Boston  Experiences.\" \n\n\n141 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nHabitation)  generally  put  in  his  Sundays  at \nthe  Library,  which  this  fictitious  individual \ncould  only  do  to-day  sub  rosa,  for  the  novel \nof  which  he  forms  a  part  has  been  debarred \nfrom  its  shelves. \n\nAcross  from  the  Library  is  the  \"  latter-day \nedition  of  the  historic  Old  South  Church, \nwhose  congregation,  after  several  removals, \nhas  settled  in  New  Boston,  a  long  distance \nfrom  the  original  site  of  the  church.\"  A \nblock  farther  on  at  the  corner  of  Dartmouth \nand  Newbury  streets  we  find  the  Art  Club \nwhere  the  heroine  of  Her  Boston  Experi- \nences was  taken  to  an  annual  exhibition  which \n\"  seemed  to  be  but  a  social  gathering  decor- \nated by  the  pictures  on  the  walls.\" \n\nReturning  past  the  church  and  down  Boyl- \nston  street  a  block  to  Exeter,  we  come  upon \nthe  new  hotel,  which  we  imagine  is  the  house \ndescribed  as  The  Hanover  where  Craighead \nbrought  his  bride  {Truth  Dexter)  and  en- \ndeavored to  initiate  her  into  the  mysteries  of \nmodern  apartment  house  life. \n\n143 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nVII.  THE  SOUTH   END \n\nWITH  the  exception  of  Mr.  Howells, \nand  more  recently  Walter  Leon \nSawyer,  few  novelists  have  found \ninspiration  in  that — from  the  Back  Bay  point \nof  view — \"impossible\"  section  of  the  town \nknown  as  the  South  End.  Mr.  Bates  felt  the \noutskirts  of  it  to  be  a  suitable  abiding  place \nfor  the  equally  \"impossible\"  Mrs.  Amanda \nWelsh  Sampson  (The  Philistines),  who \nlived  \"at  the  top  of  a  speaking  tube  in \none  of  those  apartment  hotels  which  stand \nupon  the  debatable  ground  between  the  select \nregion  of  the  Back  Bay  and  the  scorned  pre- \ncincts of  the  South  End.\"  This,  we  suspect, \nis  Huntington  Avenue,  a  street  of  Notting- \nham lace  curtains,  carefully  draped  back  to \nshow  the  Rogers  Groups  on  neat  marble \nstands.  In  this  street  also  lived  Mr.  David \nWillis  (Aldrich's  Goliali),  and  the  same  de- \nbatable ground  became  the  home,  after  Mrs. \nKent's  death  (The  Sentimentalists),  of  Ver- \nnon and   his   sister.      Mrs.  A.  D.   T.  Whitney \n\n144 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nin   her  novel  Hitherto  calls  the  South  End  a \npiece    of     New    York    patched     on,    while    a \n\n\n< \n\n\nCONCORD    SQUARE \n\n\"  He  had  not  built,  but  had  bought  very \ncheap  of  a  terrified  gentleman  of  good  extrac- \ntion, who  discovered  too  late  that  the  South  End \nwas  not  the  thing.  \" — Howell?  s  ''The  Rise  oj \nSilas  Lapham.\" \n\n\"  The  bit  of  Virginia  creeper  planted  under \nthe  window  hung  shrivelled  upon  its  trellis.\" — \n\"Their   Wedding  Journey.\" \n\nyounger  novelist,  in  referring  to  this  locality, \nsays  it  was  laid  out  after  the  manner  of  New \nYork  in  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  turn  the \ntide  of  fashion  away  from  Beacon  Street. \n\n145 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nBut  because  it  was  unfashionable,  it  exactly \nsuited  Colonel  Lapham  {The  Rise  of  Silas \nLapham)  in  the  socially  unambitious  stage  of \nhis  career.  \"  He  had  not  built,  but  had \nbought  very  cheap  of  a  terrified  gentleman \nof  good  extraction,  who  discovered  too  late \nthat  the  South  End  was  not  the  thing,  and \nwho  in  the  eaeerness  of  his  flight  to  the  Back \nBay  threw  in  his  carpets  and  shades  for  al- \nmost nothing.\"  This  locality  in  the  novel \nMr.  Howells  calls  Nankeen  Square,  but  the \nactual  place  he  had  in  mind  is  Concord \nSquare,  where  the  trees  in  the  pretty  oval \nmake  as  charming  an  autumnal  display  as  in \nthe  days  when  Penelope  Lapham  admired \nthem.  Here  also  is  the  home  of  the  Marches \n{Their  Wedding  Journey)  with  its  bit  of \nVirginia  creeper  still  growing  over  the  win- \ndow as  the  novelist  describes. \n\nHarrison     Avenue,    \"a    queer,    melancholy \n\nstreet,  which,  without  having  yet  accomplished \n\nits  destiny  as  a  business  thoroughfare,  is  no \n\nloneer  the  home  of  decorous  ease,\"  was  where \n\n,  146 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nthe  Pythoness  lived  with  her  father  Dr.  Boyn- \nton  (Howell's  An  Undiscovered  Country). \nThis  avenue  is  called  by  Mr.  Howells  Pleas- \nant in  The  Minister  s  Charge. \n\nMr.  Henry  James  also  had  it  in  mind  in \ndescribing  the  home  of  Miss  Birdseye  {The \nBostonians)  who  lived  in  a  row  of  red  houses \nwith  protuberant  fronts,  approached  by  ladders \nof  stone.  Her  mansion  \"  had  a  salient  front, \nan  enormous  and  very  high  number — 756 — \npainted  in  gilt  on  the  glass  light  above  the \ndoor,  a  tin  sign  bearing  the  name  of  a \ndoctress  suspended  from  one  of  the  windows \nof  the  basement  and  a  peculiar  look  of  be- \ning both  new  and  faded — a  kind  of  modern \nfatigue,  like  certain  articles  of  commerce \nwhich  are  sold  at  a  reduction  as  shop-worn.\" \nHere  Basil  was  taken  by  Olive  to  that  extra- \nordinary meeting  made  memorable  to  him \nby  the  presence  of  Verena  Tarrent.  While \nMiss  Birdseye — \"the  whole  moral  history \nof  Boston  was  reflected  in  her  displaced \nspectacles  \" — was  herself    a  revelation  to  the \n\n147 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nsouthern  man  plunged  so  unexpectedly  into \nOlive's  set. \n\nWe  are  given  to  understand  that  as  a \ntypical  Bostonian  Olive  Chancellor  could  not \nfail  to  belong  to  a  \"set.\"  She  had  a  pref- \nerence for  what  she  called  real  people  and  there \nwere  several  whose  reality  she  had  tested  by \narts  known  to  herself.  This  little  society  was \nrather  suburban  than  miscellaneous  ;  it  was \nprolific  in  ladies  who  trotted  about  early  and \nlate,  with  books  from  the  Athenaeum  nursed \nbehind  their  muffs,  or  little  nosegays  of  ex- \nquisite flowers  that  they  were  carrying  as  pres- \nents to  each  other — they  were  always  appar- \nently straining  a  little,  as  if  they  might  be  too \nlate  for  something.\" \n\nNear  Harrison  Avenue  is  upper  Washington \nStreet  the  scene  of  A  Local  Habitation.  \"Now \nthat  it  has  ceased  to  be  a  region  of  homes,  all \none  can  say  of  that  portion  of  Washington \nStreet  which  lies  between  Waltham  and  North- \nampton streets  is  that  it  will — sometime — be \na  part  of  the  business  section.  In  the  course \n/  148 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nof  transition  it  has  already  passed  that  initial \nstage  in  which  every  other  basement  an- \nnounces '  Table  Board.'  It  is  now  the  field  on \nwhich  is  continually  re-enacted  the  Tragedy  of \nthe  Small  Shop.  .  .  .  It  seemed  to  Carter  that \nwith  the  exception  of  the  saloon,  which  was \nquite  at  home,  all  the  shops  wore  a  certain  air \nof  discouraged  effort.  Evidently  the  people \nwho  lived  near  them  were  studious  of  bargains \n— which  they  sought  elsewhere.\" \n\nIn  this  novel  Mr.  Sawyer  has  given  us  a \nsympathetic  study  of  a  South  End  lodg- \ning house  —  a  form  of  realism  in  which \nMr.  Howells  is  pre-eminent.  \"  I  can  conceive,\" \nthe  author  makes  one  of  the  lodgers  say,  \"  that \na  novelist  might  study  the  hearts  and  lives  of \nthese  South-Enders,  and  then  display  them  to \nthe  shame  of  more  fortunate  folk.  He  could \ntell  of  the  faithful  toil,  the  unremitting  self-de- \nnial, by  which  so  many  families  are  held \ntogether  in  homes  that  are  really  homes,  though \nthey  stand  mid-way  the  pawnshop  and  the \npoorhouse.    .   .   .    He  would  show  how  the  poor \n\n149 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nhelp  the  poorer,  how  men  maintain  their  hon- \nesty and  women  their  chastity  though  pressed \nby  bitter  temptation  ;  how  the  worst  tenement \nin  the  meanest  street  may  shelter  people  who \nare  thoughtful  and  generous  and  kind.\" \n\nMrs.  Keats  Bradford  in  Miss  Pool's  novel  of \nthat  name  once  stopped  in  a  quiet  hotel  in  the \nSouth  End  where  she  was  as  much  by  herself \nas  if  she  were  in  a  foreign  town.  This  was, \nperhaps,  the  Commonwealth  Hotel,  at  the  west \nend  of  Worcester  Square  —  a  square  in  which \nwe  linger  because  it  became  the  home  of  dear \nold  Jamie  McMurtagh  {Pirate  Gold)  when,  at \nthe  time  of  the  marriage  of  Mercedes  to  St. \nClair,  he  sold  the  house  in  Salem  Street.  The \nSt.  Clairs  lived  with  him  in  this  new  and  pleas- \nant place,  where  there  was  a  little  park  with \ntrees  in  front,  and  the  novelist  tells  us  that  it \ndelighted  the  unselfish  old  Jamie  to  let  St. \nClair  away  early  from  the  bank  and  to  remain \nhimself  alone  over  the  ledgers,  imagining  St. \nClair  hurrying  home,  and  the  greeting  kiss, \nand  the  walk  they  got  along  the  shells   of  the \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nbeach  before  supper,  with  the  setting  sun  slant- \ning to  them  over  the  wide  bay  from  the  Brook- \nline  hills. \n\nColumbus  Avenue,  one  of  the  most  promi- \nnent of  the  South  End  streets,  is  the  locality \nto  which  the  Kents  moved  from  Beacon  Hill \nand  is  graphically  described  by  Mr.  Pier  in \nThe  Sentimentalists.  \"In  this  region,\"  he  says, \n\"  the  streets  are  flat,  treeless  ashpalted  wastes, \nlined  with  brick  shells,  in  most  of  which  the \nvestibules  bear  a  perferation  of  electric  but- \ntons and  suggest  the  but  recently  abated  pres- \nence of  a  slovenly  scrub-woman.  The  window- \ncurtains  are  uniformly  of  frowsy  lace  ;  there \nare  at  intervals  little  bakeries  and  restaurants, \nall  of  which  have  lace  curtains.  .  .  .  The  dis- \ntrict is  peopled  largely  with  those  who  board  ; \nwith  students  in  schools  of  oratory  and  ex- \npression, music  students,  art  students,  seams- \ntresses and  shop-girls.  The  apartment-houses \nare  tenanted  by  different  classes  ;  by  hard- \nworking artisans  and  their  families,  by  quacks, \nby  persons  who    range   from   the  acme  of  the \n\n151 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ncommonplace  to  the  abominable  of  Bohemia, \nand  by  clerks  and  professional  men,  whose \nambition  has  faded,  year  by  year,  yet  who,  in \n\n\n28    RUTLAND    SQUARE THE    HOME    OF    MRS. \n\nLOUISE    CHANDLER    MOULTON \n\n\"London   was    in    the   air  at    this    house. \"— \nMargaret  Allstons  \"Her  Boston  Experiences. \n\n\ntheir  humble  surroundings,  rear  their  children \nwith  all  the  watchful  love  and  eager  hope  of \nthose  more  fortunate  brethren  whose  poor \nhacks  they  are.\" \n\n152 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nRunning  off  this  avenue,  another  novel- \nist tells  us  are  the  most  interesting  domestic \nsquares  in  Boston,  and  in  one  of  them,  in \nNumber  28  Rutland  Square,  we  find  the  home \nof  that  charming  poet  and  author,  Mrs.  Louise \nChandler  Moulton,  who,  we  are  informed  by \nthe  heroine  of  Her  Boston  Experiences,  never \nmakes  calls,  but  receives  in  salon  fashion  once \na  week.  London  was  in  the  air  at  this  house \nwhere  Margaret  Alston  spent  her  most  inter- \nesting half-hour,  sociallv,  in  Boston. \n\n\n153 \n\n\nIN   OLD  BOSTON \n\n\nTT \n\n\nI.  ABOUT  THE  WHARVES \n\nHE  fictional  rambler  who  strolls  down \namong'  the  wharves  at  the  lower  end \nof  the  old  part  of  the  city  will  find \nstretched  out  a  vista  of  romance  from  the \ndays  of  the  departure  and  return,  in  1 745  of \nthe  Louisburg  heroes  of  which  Bynner  writes \nin  Agnes  Surriage,  to  the  stirring  old  East \nIndia  days  in  the  first  half  of  the  last  century \nof  which  Mr.  Ho  wells  in  A  Woman's  Reason \nand  Mr.  Stimson  in  Pirate  Gold  tell  so  sym- \npathetically. \n\nAofnes  Surriaee  \"  the  maid  of  Marblehead  \" \nduring  her  first  months  in  Boston  loved  to \nfrequent  these  docks  where  the  bustling  fa- \nmiliar scene  brought  back  to  her  the  associa- \ntions  of  her   fisher  home  ;  and  there  she  fled, \n\n157 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nturning  as  if  by  natural  instinct  to  the  sea \nwhen  smarting  under  the  humiliation  of  Frank- \nland's  compromising  proposal.  Hers  was,  as \nHolmes  says, \n\n\"  The  old,  old  story— fair,  arid  young, \nAnd  fond, — and  not  too  wise, — \nThat  matrons  tell,  with  sharpened  tongue, \nTo  maids  with  downcast  eyes.\" \n\nand  so  closely  does  the  novel  follow  the  facts \nof  her  remarkable  and  actual  career  that  it  is \ndifficult  to  tell  where  truth  leaves  off  and  fiction \nbegins.  Bynner  gives  us  one  of  his  many \npictures  of  her  in  this  locality  on  Long  Wharf \nat  the  foot  of  State  Street. \n\nHere  where  commercial  trafic  jostles  the \nelbow  we  will  continue  our  rambles,  lingering \nto  conjure  up  in  imagination  that  memorable \nday  as  described  by  the  novelist  when  the  re- \nturn of  the  Louisburg  expedition  set  the  town \nagog. \n\nAofnes — having\"  harkened  to  the  voice  of \nthe  tempter — was  then  living  with  Frankland, \nthe  dashing  young  Collector,  but  had  not  per- \n\n158 \n\n\nI  remember  the  black  wharves  and  the  slips \n\nAnd  the  sea-tides  tossing  free  ; \nAnd  the  Spanish  sailors  with  bearded  lips, \nAnd  the  beauty  and  mystery  of  the  ships  ; \nAnd  the  magic  of  the  sea. \n\n— Longfellow's  \"Lost  Youth. \n\n\n*59 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nmitted  herself  to  appear  in  public  until  that \nday  when,  roused  by  the  excitement  of  the \noccasion  and  yielding  to  his  entreaties,  she \nconsented  to  drive  with  him  to  King,  now \nState  Street,  where  the  fine  equipage  took  its \nplace  in  the  great  throng  of  vehicles  on  the \nway  down  to  Long  Wharf  to  help  Warren \nand  Pepperel  ashore.  \"  Boston,\"  says  Bynner, \n\"  had  known  few  such  opportunities  for  a \npageant.  Nature,  too,  conspired  to  the  suc- \ncess of  the  occasion  by  making  that  first  of \nJune  a  radiant  day.  The  whole  populace \ncame  forth  to  celebrate  their  first  oreat  mili- \ntary  achievement,  now  renowned  throughout \nthe  world.\"  Poor  Agnes,  embarrassed  by  the \nstares  of  the  curious  took  no  pleasure  in  the \nexcitement,  but  the  Collector's  blood  was  fired \nand  they  remained  in  the  crowd  at  the  wharf \nuntil  the  heroes  had  landed  and  marched, \nfollowed  by  the  shouting  populace  to  the  Town \nHouse. \n\nThis  Long  Wharf  has  played  a  particularly \nconspicuous   part    in  Boston  fiction.      Histori- \n\n161 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ncally  it  was  the  scene  of  so  many  stirring \nevents  that  it  is  small  wonder  the  romancer \nhas  spun  his  delicate  web  about  it.  There \nCooper's  Lionel  Lincoln  landed  from  England \non  an  early  April  morning  in  1775,  and  a \ndreary  place  he  appears  to  have  found  it. \nThe  wharves  were  naked,  Cooper  tells  us. \n\"  A  few  neglected  and  dismantled  ships  were \nlying  at  different  points  ;  but  the  hum  of  busi- \nness, the  forests  of  masts,  and  the  rattling  of \nwheels  which  at  that  early  hour  should  have \ndistinguished  the  o-reat  mart  of  the  colonies, \nwere  wanting.  In  their  places  were  to  be \nheard  at  \"intervals,  the  sudden  burst  of  distant \nmartial  music,  the  riotous  merriment  of  the \nsoldiery  who  frequented  the  taverns  at  the \nwater's  edge,  or  the  sullen  challenges  of  the \nsentinels  from  the  vessels  of  war,  as  they  vexed \nthe  progress  of  the  few  boats  which  the  inhab- \nitants still  used  in  their  ordinary  pursuits.\" \n\nAt  thiswharf  a  year  later  were  the  boats  which \ncarried  many  of  the  British  troops  to  Breed's \nHill,    among  them    \"Wolfe's  own\"  of  which \n\n162 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nLionel  Lincoln  was  the  Major,  left  behind  on \nthat  memorable  day,  Cooper  explains,  because \nGage  saw  fit  to  fill  his  place  with  another  and, \nhe  said,  a  less  important  man.  A  brilliant \nscene  was  the  departure  of  the  over-confident \ntroops  whose  officers  thought  it  was  to  be \nmerely  an  affair  of  out-posts.  The  following \nyear  when  the  royal  army  was  rapidly  retiring, \nSir  Lionel  Lincoln,  baronet  by  the  recent \ndeath  of  his  father,  embarked  in  a  small  boat \nfrom  Lonor  Wharf  for  the  British  frigate \nwhich  carried  him  and  his  pretty  kinswoman, \nCecil  Dynevor,  whom  he  had  married,  back \nto  England  and  their  baronial  estates. \n\nAt  the  head  of  Long  Wharf  old  Deacon \nShem  Drowne,  who  is  not  a  fictitious  person, \nbut  has  been  immortalized  by  Hawthorne  in \nhis  Mosses  From  an  Old  Manse,  had  his  shop \njust  at  the  water's  edge.  This  was  when \nthe  water's  edge  meant  where  the  Custom \nHouse  is  now  standing.  Hawthorne  tells \nus  that  men  of  taste  about  the  wharf  were \nwont  to  show  their  love  for  the  arts  by  fre- \n\n163 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\nM  Mf \n\n\nTHE    INSPIRATION    OF    A    BIT    OF \nHAWTHORNE    ALLEGORY \n\n\nquent  visits  to  Drowne's \nworkshop  where  his \nwooden  images  excited \nnot  only  their  admira- \ntion but  that  of \nCopley,  the  artist, \nwho  was  an  occa- \nsional  visitor. \nHere  came  the  jo- \nvial Captain  Hun- \nnewell  to  order  for \nhis  Cynosure — \n\"the  sweetest  craft \nthat  ever  floated,\" \nsuch  a  figurehead \nas  old  Neptune \nnever  saw  in  his \nlife.  The  Captain \nhad  his  own  ideas \nabout  this  ima<re \nwhich  touched \nDrowne  with  such \ninspiration  that  he \n\n\n164 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nproduced  a  masterpiece  the  like  of  which \nthe  good  old  town  had  never  seen  carved \nfrom  an  oaken  log.  An  exquisite  female \nfigure  it  was,  endowed  with  such  natural- \nness that  on  first  seeing  it  persons  felt  im- \npelled to  remove  their  hats  and  pay  such  rev- \nerence as  was  due  to  the  richly  dressed  and \nbeautiful  young  lady  who  actually  seemed  to \nstand  in  a  corner  of  the  room  with  oaken  chips \nand  shavings  scattered  at  her  feet.  Haw- \nthorne further  gives  his  imagination  full  play \nin  picturing  Drowne  a  modern  Pygmalion  dis- \ncovered by  his  townsmen  kneeling  at  the  feet \nof  the  oaken  ladv  while  eazincr  with  a  lover's \npassionate  ardor  into  the  face  his  own  hands \nhad  created. \n\nThe  Cynosure  with  its  remarkable  figure \nhead  has  sailed  into  oblivion,  but  a  reduced \nlikeness  of  its  jovial  Captain  is  preserved  for \nus  in  the  Shem  Drowne  figure  of  Admiral \nVernon,  finished  shortly  after  the  Cynosure \nsailed.  This  imaee  never  took  its  rightful \nplace  on  the  prow  of  a  vessel  but  became  the \n\n165 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\npicturesque  sign  at  the  doorway  of  a  shop  at \nthe  head  of  Long  Wharf,  where  since  1770  it \nhas  stolidly  gazed  at  the  passer  by,  to  be  re- \nmoved within  a  few  months  to  a  window  in \nCentral  Street,  nearby. \n\nThe  quaint  little  man  holding  a  telescope \nand  quadrant  does  not  present  a  very  jovial \naspect,  but  he  is  stylishly  dressed  in  the  cos- \ntume of  the  period  as  Hawthorne  describes. \nThe  paint  is  somewhat  worn  from  his  gayly- \ncoloured  clothes,  but  he  presents  a  dignified  ap- \npearance and  commands  respect  from  the \npasser-by  as  the  inspiration  of  a  bit  of  Haw- \nthorne allegory.  It  is  easy  to  imagine  that  the \nromancer  liked  to  linger  about  the  old  shop  of \nwhich  the  Admiral  Vernon  sign  formed  a  part, \nfor,  situated  at  that  time  at  the  corner  of  State \nand  Broad  streets  in  a  block  recently  torn \ndown,  it  was  a  veritable  antiquity  with  its  quaint \nnautical  instrument  business  established  in \n1770  when  State  was  King  Street.  One  won- \nders if  Dickens  did  not  stroll  in  there  during \nhis  Boston  visit  and  find  in  the  image  a  sug- \n\n166 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\n\ngestion     for    the    little     figure    displayed    by \nWalter's  uncle  in  Domby  and  Son. \n\nSince  1720  there  has  been  standing  on  Long \nWharf  the  Salt  House,  of  literary  interest  as \nbeing  the  place  where  Hawthorne  wrote  the \nScarlet  Letter.  He  used \na  little  back  room  on \nthe  top  floor  which,  we \nare  told,  had  the  only \nwindow  in  the  upper \nstory  that  looked  out \non  T  wharf,  and  the \nceiling  was  so  low  that, \non  entering,  a  tall  man \nwith  a  high  hat  had  to \nstoop.  It  is  probable \nthat  the  romancer  did \nnot  find  this  fact  at  all \ndisturbing.  The  room  which  underwent  the \nusual  chancres  when  some  years  aeo  the  build- \ning  was  remodeled  is  now  occupied  by  pros- \nperous fish  merchants.  That  classic  shades \nhover  over  their  prosaic  offices  is  unsuspected \n\n167 \n\n\nIHE  OLD  SALT    HOUSE,  WHERE \n\nHAWTHORNE  WROTE  \"THE \n\nSCARLET    LETTER  \" \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nby  the  present  occupants,  one  of  the  oldest  of \nwhom  when  told  recently  that  Hawthorne  was \nidentified  with  the  place,  said  he  guessed  not, \nthere'd  been  no  such  person  in  the  business  in \nhis  time  and  he'd  known  the  Salt  House  in \nand  out  for  sixty  years  ! \n\nCaptain  Moore  Carew,  the  hero  of  F.  J. \nStimson's  King  Noanett,  in  search  of  work \ntries  the  counting  rooms  of  Long  Wharf  to  be \nrefused  by  one  prim  old  gentleman  after  an- \nother. And  from  the  same  wharf  in  search  of \nfurther  adventures  he  later  set  sail  for  the \nBarbadoes.  In  his  Two  Years  Before  the \nMast  Richard  Henry  Dana,  junior,  writes  sym- \npathetically of  approaching  the  wharves  on  his \nreturn  voyage  and  the  joy  of  hearing,  floating \nout  to  him  across  the  water,  the  bells  of  the \nOld  South. \n\nA  few  steps  south  of  Long  is  India  Wharf, \nduring  the  first  half  of  the  last  century  as \ncrowded  with  commercial  interest  as  were \nits  warehouses  with  the  spices  of  the \nEast.     A  counting  room  there  was  more  than \n\n168 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\na  badge  of  respectability,  it  marked  its  owner \nas  an  aristocrat.  At  the  head  of  India  Wharf, \ntwo  flights  up  in  an  old  granite  building,  was \nthe  counting  room  of  James  Bowdoin's  Sons \nwhich  is  the  scene  of  much  of  the  story  of \nPirate  Gold.  Mr.  Stimson  calls  it  India \nWharf  in  his  novel,  but  the  actual  counting \nroom  which  he  had  in  mind  was  that  of  Mr. \nJosiah  Bradlee,  a  famous  old  Boston  mer- \nchant, whose  warehouses  are  standing  to-day \non  Central  Wharf,  which  lies  next  to  India. \nA  style  of  office  now  extinct  was  Mr.  James \nBowdoin's  :  \"The  floor  of  the  room  was  bare. \nBetween  the  windows  on  one  side,  was  an \nopen  empty  stove ;  on  the  other  were  two \nhigh  desks,  with  stools.  An  eight-day  clock \nticked  comfortably  on  the  wall,  and  on  either \nside  of  it  were  two  pictures,  wood-cuts,  eked  out \nwith  rude  splashes  of  red  and  blue  by  some \nprimitive  process  of  lithography  ;  the  one \nrepresented  '  The  Take  of  a  Right  Whale \nin  Behring's  Sea  by  the  Good  Adventure \nBarque  out  of  New   Bedford  ;'  and  the  other \n\n169 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nthe  '  Landing  of  His  Majesty's  Troops  in \nBoston,  His  Majesty's  province  of  Massa- \nchusetts Bay  in  New  England,  1766.'  There \nwas  not  a  sea  on  earth,  probably  that  did  not \nbear  its  boundary  ship  sent  out  from  that \nsmall  office.  And  if  it  was  still  in  there,  it \nhad  a  cosmopolitan,  aromatic  smell  ;  for  every \nstrange  letter  or  foreign  sample  with  which \nthe  place  was  littered  bespoke  the  business  of \nthe  bright,  blue  world  outside.\" \n\nStrolling  into  the  old  granite  building  at \nthe  head  of  Central  Wharf  and  climbing  up \nthe  stairway  to-day,  one  expects  to  overtake \nthe  infuriated  Mr.  James  Bowdoin  going  up \nthrough  the  cloud  of  aromatic  dust,  which  his \nfun-loving  son,  literally  following  certain  pre- \nemptory  orders,  had  made  by  sweeping  stairs \nunswept  for  years.  It  is  interesting  to  know \nthat  the  delightful  eccentricities  of  the  lovable \nMr.  James  Bowdoin  existed  in  his  prototype, \nMr.  josiah  Bradlee,  who  is  well  remembered \nby  present-day  Bostonians. \n\nThe  romantic  side  of  the  trade  of  the  Orient \n170 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nis  graphically  described  in  A  Woman  s  Rea- \nson, by  Howells,  who  places  the  counting-room \nof  the  father  of  the  heroine  on  India  wharf. \nHarkness  was  one  of  the  last  of  the  East  India \nmerchants,  and  Captain  Butler  said  it  made  one \nthink  of  the  ancient  regime  to  look  at  him.  The \ntwo  men  reminisced  one  day  in  Mr.  Harkness's \nlibrary  over  the  departed  glories  of  what  they \ncalled  the  grandest  commerce  in  the  world  — \nwith  Helen  Harkness  for  an  enraptured  audi- \nence. To  Helen,  India  Wharf  meant  only  the \nplace  \"the  Nahant  boat  starts  from\"  and  that \nis  largely  what  it  means  to  the  younger  gen- \neration to-day.  But  her  father  clung  to  the \nold  traditions  and  so  did  old  Mr.  James  Bow- \ndoin,  who,  in  spite  of  the  great  changes  in  the \nbusiness  which  he  lived  to  see,  never  failed  to \nget  very  early  to  the  little  counting-room  as  in \nthe  days  when  he  might  hope  to  find  some \nship  of  his  own,  fresh  from  the  Orient,  warp- \ning- into  the  dock. \n\nThe  wharves  in  the  times  just  following  the \nRevolution  play  an  important  part  in  Bynner's \n\n171 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\\ary  PJiips  for  Scarlett's  Wharf  was  a \nfavorite  haunt  of  Zach.  This  wharf  no  longer \nremains,  but  it  stood  in  former  days  at  the  foot \nof  Fleet  Street,  then  called  Scarlett's  Wharf \nLane,  and  Bynner  pictures  a  bustling  scene  of \n'longshoremen,  stevedores,  and  sailors  rolling \ncasks,  carrvine  ba^s  and  sacks  with  the  usual \naccompaniment  of  shouting  and  cursing.  Such \nan  atmosphere  was  fascinating  to  a  boy  of \nZach's  temperament  and  it  is  no  astonishment \nto  learn  that  sneaking  on  to  a  vessel  at  the \nedge  of  the  dock,  Zach.  one  day,  ran  off  to \nsea. \n\nThese  wharves  come  into  some  prominence \nin  Holme's  The  Guardian  Angel  during  the \nsearch  so  humorously  described,  of  the  two \nvounof  men  and  rivals.  Murrav  Bradshaw  and \nCyprian  Eveleth  for  the  missing  Myrtle  Haz- \nard. Murray  visited  all  the  wharves,  enquir- \ning on  every  vessel  where  it  seemed  possible \nshe  miurht  have  been  looking  about.  On  Sun- \nday  he  learned  that  M  a  youth  corresponding  to \nhis  description  of  Myrtle  in  her  probable  dis- \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\neuise  had  been  that  morning  on  board  the \nSwordfish  —  doubtless  intending  to  take  pass- \nage in  her.  The  next  morning  he  walked \ndown  to  the  wharf,  where  the  Swordfish  was \nmoored.  The  ship  had  left  the  wharf \nand  was  lvincr  out  in  the  stream.  A  small \nboat  had  just  reached  her,  and  a  slender \nyouth,  as  he  appeared  at  the  distance,  climbed, \nnot  over  adroitly,  up  the  vessel's  side.  Mur- \nray Bradshaw  called  to  a  boatman  nearby  and \nordered  the  man  to  row  him  over  as  fast  as  he \ncould  to  the  vessel  lying-  in  the  stream.  He \nhad  no  sooner  reached  the  deck  of  the  Sword- \nfish  than  he  asked  for  the  young  person  who \nhad  just  been  put  on  board.\"  Told  that \nhe  was  below  \"his  heart  beat,  in  spite  of \nhis  cool  temperament,  as  he  went  down  the \nsteps  leading  to  the  cabin.  The  young \nperson  was  talking  earnestly  to  the  Cap- \ntain, and.  on  his  turning  round,  Mr.  William \nMurray  Bradshaw  had  the  pleasure  of  rec- \nognizing his  young  friend,  Mr.  Cyprian \nEveleth  !\" \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nDocks  like  these  of  the  novelists  were  Long- \nfellow's : \n\nblack  wharves  and  the  slips, \n\nAnd  the  sea-tides  tossing  free, \nAnd  the  Spanish  sailors  with  bearded  lips, \nAnd  the  beauty  and  mystery  of  the  ships, \n\nAnd  the  magic  of  the  sea. \n\nPassing  northward  up  Atlantic  Avenue  which \nskirts  the  margin  of  the  water,  we  pause  a  mo- \nment before  turning  into  Fleet  Street  to  re- \nmember that,  where  modern  ware-houses  and \nstores  are  stretched  interminably  once  stood \nthe  home  of  that  much  loved  character  in  fic- \ntion, Trueman  Flint,  the  hero  of  Maria  Cum- \nmins's  The  Lamplighter.  Two  generations \nrecall  and  discuss  with  a  third  to-day  the  for- \ntunes of  Gerty,  the  heroine.  This  novel  be- \nlongs to  the  semi-romantic  class  of  literature, \nbut  has  retained  its  immense  hold  on  the  pub- \nlic because  of  the  noble,  endearing  qualities  of \nthe  old  Lamplighter  around  whom  the  elabor- \nate plot  is  woven.  Undoubtedly  he  was  a \ntrue  character.    \"  Of  course,\"  asserted  a  young \n\n174 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nadmirer,  \"  Wasn't  his  name  Trueman?\"  Per- \nhaps she  and  Miss  Cummins  may  not  have \nhad  the  same  interpretation  of  the  hero's  name, \nbut  if  he  was  not  \"true\"  at  the  beginning,  true \nhe  has  become  to  thousands  of  readers  to \nwhom  the  author  has  made  him  so  convincing. \nPoor  as  he  was,  his  home,  she  is  very  particular \nto  tell  us,  was  a  decent,  two-storied  house  with \na  small,  narrow  enclosed  yard  and  a  little  gate \nclose  to  the  sidewalk.  True  lodged  in  the \nback  of  the  house  and  a  veritable  paradise  it \nseemed  to  Gertie  when  he  took  the  little  waif \nin  to  \"  bide  \"  with  him. \n\nThe  neighbourhood  is  full  of  associations \nwith  this  loving  and  much  loved  pair,  and  lin- \noferine  at  the  water's  ed^e  one  looks  about, \nalas  !  in  vain,  for  that  fascinating  wood-yard \nthe  sanctum  of  Gerty,  where,  \"  out  of  sight  of \nthe  houses  there  was  an  immense  pile  of  tim- \nber of  different  lengths  and  unevenly  placed, \nthe  planks  forming  on  one  side  a  series  of \nirregular  steps  by  which  it  was  easy  to  climb \nup.      Near  the  top  was  a  little  sheltered  recess \n\n175 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\noverhung  by  some  long  planks,  and  forming  a \nminiature  shed,  protected  by  the  wood  on  all \nsides  but  one,  and  from  that  looking  out  upon \nthe  water.  To  escape  from  the  old  shrew, \nNan  Grant  with  whom  she  lived,  and  spend \nhours  in  this  retreat  watching  the  lively  sailors \nat  work,  was  all  the  happiness  little  Gerty  knew \nuntil  she  was  taken  into  the  home  of  the \nLamplighter. \n\nII.  THE  HEART  OF  THE  OLD \nNORTH  END \n\nOF  the  Old  North  End,  as  the  novelists \nhave  depicted  it,  there  is  to-day  more \ntrace  than  the  casual  reader  or  rambler \nwould  fancy.  History  and  romance  are  de- \nlightfully interwoven  in  much  of  the  fiction \nwhich  treats  of  this  section  of  the  town. \nLeaving  Atlantic  Avenue  and  the  wharves  it \nis  interesting  to  turn  up  old  Fleet  Street — so \nnamed  when  it  grew  from  Scarlett's  Wharf \nLane  to  the  dignity  of  a  street  in  1 708,  and \ngive  oneself    up  to  the  world  of  Cooper,  Byn- \n\n176 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nner,  Hawthorne,  Stimson  and  Lydia  Maria \nChild,  whose  semi-historical  characters,  to  the \nimaginative,  people  the  crooked  old  streets \nswarming  in  reality  with  the  mixed  foreign \nelement  which  pervades  the  North  End. \nThese  writers  saturated  themselves  with  the \natmosphere  of  the  town,  which  was  the  more \neasy  for  Cooper,  perhaps,  for  in  1824  when  he \ncame  on  to  Boston  and  prowled  around  the \nNorth  End  to  get  his  local  colour  for  Lionel \nLincoln,  many  of  the  landmarks  were  standing, \nnotably  the  Sir  Henry  Frankland  House \nwhich  he  describes  as  Mrs.  Lechmeres's  in  the \nnovel,  and  where,  tradition  has  it,  he  stayed \nwhile  collecting  his  material. \n\nThis  locality  in  Colonial  days  held  the  Bos- \nton world  of  wealth  and  fashion,  and  we  do \nnot  go  far  up  Fleet  Street  before  coming  to \nlittle  Garden  Court  Street,  now  a  block  of \nshabby  brick  houses,  but  in  former  days  the \nmansions  of  Sir  Harry  Frankland  and  Gov- \nernor Hutchinson,  side  by  side,  occupied  the \nentire  square  from    Fleet  to     Prince    Streets. \n\n177 \n\n\n••  S     -.    .        it  A I \n\n7  -     -    :  •  -;    >:t      :      a-    <  ■ . ;      -    as  Frit ;-:\".    J;-.:r: \n\ninson  mansion  ts    gardens  ^    back \n\n\n.  -       — \n\n■  - \n\nto  Fleet  and  Hanover  Streets    s  given \nChild  in  The  Rebels.     The  large  brick  house \nwas  ornamented  in  front  with  four  Corinthian \nTi- inters  and  the  r.  -  iat  when  the \n\nLieutenant-Governors  young;  nephew,  Captain \nSomerville    arrived    from    England,    he \n\n- \n\n\n■  ■  ■ \n\nios  .  '  \"  _ \n\n:  c   .    .  - '  .  :     •  -- '  -  .      \"  :  i-    :  r :  ' \n\n- \n\n_   :~   \"j       -,--'■   ~~_~-  — .-■~'-~ ~— ~.       z  .ri:    :: \n\n' .  - 2_~  .    ~    -         .  \"  _ \n\n_~    I  \"      ~  ~  -  -      - \n\n:  .1  -  ■ \n\n'. — ■-  \".-  \"     -  * \n\noff    Ezrr-  ' \n\nIr  - \n\ninn  J~L'  RritrJs,  moon-.  '.''-\"\"\". \n\n\" '     .  \"  '  - \n\n:   -.■:-  —ZiT-z-z  i   j    :.:  -  -  -  ~  <-  —.  -      :   -   -  =  :  :  t  v    .  :  .- \n\n:  7i_i.\"      : \"  t  ~ti  ic.rc    iv    :-:\"-\"\"       :  \"  ~  - \n\n----■\"\" \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ntounded  quests.  More  thrilling  things  than \nthese  happened  in  the  library  of  the  house  on \na  night  early  in  the  story  when  the  Governor \nand  Dr.  Byles  were  quietly  deciphering  a \nmanuscript  brought  over  from  England  by  the \nyoung  captain.  Take  a  peep  into  this  room  of \nthe  scholar  and  the  antiquarian  and  see  how \nsplendidly  it  was  hung  with  canvas  tapestry, \n\"  on  which  was  blazoned  the  coronation  of \nGeorge  II.,  here  and  there  interspersed  with \nthe  royal  arms.  The  portraits  of  Anne \nand  the  two  Georges  hung  in  massive  frames \nof  antique  splendour,  and  the  crowded  shelves \nwere  surmounted  with  busts  of  the  house  of \nStuart.\" \n\nInto  this  scholarly  atmosphere  came  Somer- \nville  with  news  of  the  infuriated  state  of  the \npopulace  outside,  which  hardly  had  he  imparted \nwhen  the  mob  was  heard  at  the  doors  crying \nvengeance  on  \"  stingy  Tommy,\"  heartily  de- \ntested. The  family  escaped  through  the  gar- \nden and  the  mob  wreaked  its  anger  on  the \nhouse  which  half  were  for  burning,  but  satis- \n\n180 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nfied  themselves  by  joining  the  others  in  ruth- \nlessly destroying  the  beauty  of  the  interior. \nThe  library  particularly  suffered.  Books  were \nstripped  from  their  covers,  manuscripts  torn  to \npieces,  the  royal  portraits  rent  from  top  to  bot- \ntom, and  the  beautiful  swan-like  neck  of  Mary \nStuart  was  all  that  remained  of  the  proud  line \nof  busts. \n\nNext  door  to  this  mansion  stood  the  scarcely \nless  noted  one  of  Sir  Harry  Frankland,  from \nthe  windows  of  which  the  self-imprisoned,  un- \nhappy Agnes  Surriage,  in  fact  as  well  as  in  fic- \ntion (Bynners  Agues  Surriage),  wistfully  gazed \ndown  upon  those  haughty  dames  who  passed \nher  by.  Plain  to  severity  was  the  exterior  of \nCollector  Frankland's  house,  but  this,  the  novel- \nist assures  us,  was  merely  an  architectural  mask \n— a  Puritanical  cloak,  as  it  were,  covering  the \nswashing  bravery  of  a  Royalist  and  courtier. \nA  buffet  groaning  with  massive  plate  and  a \ncellar  stocked  with  choicest  wines  were  not  the \nleast  of  the  ornaments  of  a  luxurious  house,  the \nerrand    staircase    of   which    was  so  broad  and \n\n181 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\neasy  of  ascent  that  Frankland  used  to  ride  his \npony  up  and  down.  Like  a  body  reft  of  its \nsoul  Agnes  sat  amid  the  splendour  of  her  new \n\n\n\"  Plain  to  severity  was  the  exterior  of  the  collec- \ntor's house,  but  this  was  merely  an  architectural \nmask,  a  Puritanical  cloak,  as  it  were,  covering  the \nswashing  bravery  of  a  Royalist  and  courtier.\" — \nBy  niter's  \"Agues  Surriage\" \n\n\nhome,  and  departed  from  it  with  thankfulness \nwhen  eventually  they  took  up  their  residence \nat  Hopkinton. \n\nUsing  this  Frankland  house,  which  he  places \nin  Tremont  Street,  as  the  abode  of  the  aristo- \n\n182 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\n\ncratic  Mrs.  Lechmere,  the  aunt  of  Lionel  Lin- \ncoln, Cooper  describes  it  at  length  as  the  most \nsplendid  in  the  town.  He  permits  his  hero  to \ndwell  there  for  some  time  as  the  guest  of  his \naunt  and  young  cousins,  one  of  whom  he  mar- \nries while  the  other, \nAgnes  Dan  forth,  marry- \ning an  American  officer, \ncontinues  to  live  in  the \nold  house  after  her \ngreat-aunt's  death. \n\nGarden  Court  Street \nleads  directly  into \nNorth  Square,  always \na  triangle,  where  on  the \nnorth  side  stands  to- \nday the  house  of  Paul \nRevere  from  which  he \nstarted  on  that  famous  ride  which  Long- \nfellow has  made  immortal.  The  little  frame \nhouse  is  not  imposing,  having  sunk  to  the \nlevel  of  an  Italian  shop  and  tenement,  but \nit     is    interesting    to    the     rambler    as    being\" \n\n183 \n\n\nTHE   IK  'ME  OF  PAUL \nREVERE \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\none   of    the    few  old    North    End    houses  re- \nmaining. \n\nTurn  east  and  pass  out  North  Square \nthrough  Moon,  which  is  just  below  Garden \nCourt  Street.  Hereon  the  east  side,  halfway \nbetween  the  Square  and  Fleet  Street,  Sir \nHarry  Frankland  had  as  his  neighbour  the \nwitty  Rev.  Samuel  Mather,  with  whom  he \nloved  to  parley.  Bynner  (Agnes  Surriage)  de- \nscribes their  meeting  one  evening  in  Moon \nStreet,  when  the  eccentric  parson  urged  him \nto  come  to  prayer  meeting,  promising  to  make \nhim  a  special  subject  of  supplication  in  return \nfor  the  box  of  lemons  the  Collector  had  sent \nhim.  To  which  Frankland  makes  reply  that \nhe  had  ample  payment  in  the  clever  verses  re- \nturned. These  verses  written  February  20, \n1757,  were  as  follows  : — \n\nYou  know  from  Eastern  India  came \nThe  skill  of  making  punch,  as  did  the  name; \nAnd  as  the  name  consists  of  letters  five, \nBy  five  ingredients  it  is  kept  alive, \nTo  purest  water  sugar  must  be  joined \nWith  these  the  grateful  acid  is  combined; \n184 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nSome  any  sours  they  get  contented  use, \nBut  men  of  taste  do  that  from  Tagus  choose. \nWhen  now  these  three  are  mixed  with  care. \nThen  added  be  of  spirit  a  small  share  ; \nAnd  that  you  may  the  drink  quite  perfect  see, \nAtop  the  musky  nut  must  grated  be. \n\nFrom  Moon  pass  into  Fleet  Street  and \ndown  to  North,  turning  east  a  block  to  Clark \nStreet  where  we  do  not  see  the  present  squalor \nbut  instead  conjure  up  the  old  \"  Ship  Tavern,\" \na  famous  ordinary  to  which  Bynner's  Zachary \nPhips  used  frequently  to  be  running  after \n'baccy  for  the  sailors,  and  there  Mr.  James \n(Stimson's  Pirate  Gold)  sometimes  took  his \nfather,  Mr.  James  Bowdoin,  for  a  glass  of \nflip. \n\nA  short  distance  along  North  Street  Salu- \ntation Alley  strikes  across  to  Hanover  and \nretains  one  at  least  of  the  characteristics  fic- \ntion has  ascribed  to  it,  for  the  narrowest  street \nin  the  town  it  was  and  is,  and  in  it  stood  a \nquaint  hostelry  called  Salutation  Tavern  or \n\"  The  Two  Palavers,\"  where  Agnes  {Agnes \nSurriage)  went  in  search  of  Job  Redden  and \n\n185 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\nfound  him  in  the  tap-room.  In  her  excite- \nment it  is  doubtful  if  she  took  note  of  the \nquaint  sign-board  on  which  were  painted  two \nold  gossips  in  the  act  of  greeting,  which \ngave  the  name  to  both  inn  and  street. \n\nFarther  down  the  al- \nley was  the  home  of \nZach  (Zachary  Pliips) \nwho  seldom  entered  his \nfather's  home  by  the \nstreet  door,  but  pre- \nferred the  rear  by  way \nof  the  garden  which \nstretched  back  to  Bat- \ntery Street.  And  here \nJob  Pray  brought  Li- \n\"  He  wended  his  way  to  Sal-    onel    (Cooper's    Lionel \n\nutation    Alley.\" — Bynner's    Za-       T   .         f    -  ,  , \n\nchary  Phips'.\"  -Lincoln),  on  that  round- \n\nabout  excursion  through  narrow  and  gloomy \nstreets,  terminating  at  Copp's  Hill. \n\nSalutation  Street,  or  Alley,  as  in  the  old \ndays  it  was  called,  comes  out  opposite  Charter \nStreet,  and   it   is  a  walk   of  three  short  blocks \n\n186 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nup  Hanover  to  North  Bennett  Street  where \nMaster  Tileston,  a  personage  in  his  day,  taught \nnot  only  the  fictitious  Zach  Phips  but  all  the \nactual  boys  of  Boston  in  his  famous  Old  North \nWriting  School.  \"His  cocked  hat,  his  pow- \ndered wiof,  his  lonsf-skirted  coat,  his  volumin- \nous  waistcoat,  and  lastly  his  silver-headed \nMalacca  stick,\"  says  the  novelist,  \"  were  the \naccessories  of  a  person  not  to  lightly  encount- \nered save  by  the  innocent  and  pure  in  heart.\" \nSkirmishes  went  on  among  the  boys  while \nMaster  Tileston,  familiarly  called  \"Johnny \nCrump,\"  was  seemingly  intent  on  copybooks, \nand  Zach,  one  day,  was  caught  whispering. \nSo  merciless  was  the  thrashing  given  him  that \nthe  boy  whirled  about  on  the  pedagogue  with \na  \"you'll  never  lick  me  again,  old  johnny \nCrump,  Crumpity  Crump  !  \"  and  darted  from \nthe  room  never  to  return,  before  the  amazed \nmaster  could  interfere.  A  large  public  school \nnow  stands  on  the  site  of  the  frame  house \nwhere  the  irascible  master  held  sway. \n\nParallel  with  North   Bennet  Street  and  one \n187 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nblock  east  is  Tileston  Street,  named  for  Bos- \nton's illustrious  school-master  and  interesting \nto  all  lovers  of  the  Agnes  Surriage,  of  the \nnovel,  as  beino-  the  street  in  which  she  lived \nwhile  makinof  her  first  home  in  the  town  with \nthe  Widow  Ruck.  Frankland,  whose  protege \nthe  girl  then  was,  found  this  boarding  place \nfor  her  and  there  she  faithfully  applied  herself \nto  the  somewhat  arduous  task  of  taking  on  the \nfine  polish  of  a  lady.  From  the  windows  of \nher  room,  Bynner  tells  us,  lay  outspread  the \nTown  Dock  to  far  off  Froe  Lane,  bristling \nwith  the  many  characteristic  features  of  pro- \nvincial Boston  —  the  fine  new  hall  just  given \nby  the  munificent  Faneuil;  the  Town  House  ; \nthe  frowning  fortifications  of  Fort  Hill  ;  the \nshabby  little  King's  Chapel,  the  towering \nsteeple  of  the  Old  South ;  the  royal  colors  flying \nabove  Deacon  Shem  Drowne's  Indian  imaee  on \nthe  distant  province  house;  the  last  but  not  least, \nfarther  to  the  west,  triple-peaked  Beacon  Hill. \n\nThe  Widow  Ruck,  an  amusing  and  wholly \nfictitious  character,  had,   the  novelist   says,    a \n\niSS \n\n\nThe  belfry  tower  of  the  Old  North  Church, \nAs  it  rose  above  the  graves  on  the  hill, \nLonely  and   spectral  and  sombre  and  still.\" \n\nLongfellow  s  \" Paul  Revere 's  Ride \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nlarge  thrifty  garden  which  covered  a  space  now \noccupied  by  several  brick  blocks,  and  an  odd \ncorner  of  this  she  was  induced,  by  the  persua- \nsive Frankland,  to  turn  over  to  Agnes.  Here \nthe  then  happy  fisher  girl  and  the  debonnair \nCollector  botanized.  The  hitherto  neglected \ncorner  was  speedily  filled  with  curious  and \nbeautiful  plants,  for  every  time  Frankland \ncame  it  was  with  some  choice  plant  or  seed \nfetched  from  abroad  which  Aones  tended  with \ndevotion.  This  pretty  pastime  was  fact  and \nnot  fiction,  and  for  this  rare  garden  the  novel- \nist thinks  Frankland  laid  the  world  under  con- \ntribution. \n\nOnly  a  stone's  throw  farther  on  lies  Salem \nStreet  winding  as  in  the  old  days  east  and \nwest.  Part  of  this  ancient  street  in  i  708  was \nknown  as  Back  Street  from  the  fact  that  it \ndescribed  the  limits  and  sea  margin  of  the \ntown.  Fictional  interest  centres  at  once  in \nChrist  Church,  the  dominant  building  not  only \nof  the  street  but  the  entire  North  End.  Erected \nin    1723,    this  church  is  the  oldest  in   Boston \n\n191 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nstanding  on  its  original  ground.  Bynner's \ncharacters  did  not  attend  it,  but  he  speaks  of \nFrankland's  keeping  his  chronometer  by  its \nbells  which  tolled  the  curfew  hour.  Mr.  Stimson's \npretty  heroine  Pirate  Gold,  Mercedes,  some- \ntimes attended  the  services  in  Christ  Church, \nescorted  by  the  clumsy  Hughson.  Here,  in \nthose  anti-Episcopal  days,  \"were  scarcely  a \ndozen  worshippers ;  and  you  might  have  a \nsquare,  dock-like  pew  all  to  yourself,  turn  your \nback  upon  the  minister,  and  gaze  upon  the \npainted  angels  blowing  gilded  trumpets  in  the \ngallery.\"  A  poet's  rhymes  have  immortalized \nthe  steeple  of  Christ  Church  as  all  readers  of \n\"Paul  Revere's  Ride  \"  know. \n\nBeside  Christ  Church  in  Salem  Street  stands \nto-day  the  curious  little  house  where  the  child \nMercedes  (Stimson's  Pirate  Gold)  was  taken \nto  live  when  James  McMurtagh  adopted  her. \nJamie,  who  was  Scotch,  liked  it  because  it \nmight  have  been  a  little  house  in  some  provin- \ncial town  at  home.  Later  in  the  story  Jamie \nsold   this   house  and  removed  to  a  more  fash- \n\n192 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nionable    quarter    only  to   return   to  it  in  after \nyears,  and  there  the  noble,  unselfish   old  soul \n\n\nHOME   OF   THE    M  MURTAGHS — SALEM    STREET \n\n\"  Jamie  liked  it  because  it  might  have  been  a  little \nhouse  in  some  provincial  town  at  home.'\" — Stimson's \n\"Pirate  Gold.\" \n\n\nin  his  sixtieth  year  was  attacked  by  that \nillness  which  so  nearly  proved  fatal.  How \nthe    heart    throbs    in    watching    by    his    bed- \n\n193 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\nside,  where  the  pathetic  old  fellow  \"  lay  un- \nconscious of  earthly  things.  For  many  weeks \nhis   spirit,  like   a  tired   bird,  hovered  between \n\nthis  world  and  the  next, \nuncertain  where  to \nlight.\"  To  the  infinite \nrelief  of  the  reader  it \nlights  on  terra  firma  and \nwe  leave  Jamie  happy \nto  live  again  for  his  lost \nMercedes's  little  Sarah \nin  the  old  house  in  Sa- \nlem Street. \n\nTurninof  north  from \nthis  picturesque  dwell- \ning, we  pass  up  Hull \nStreet,  which  is  directly \nopposite  Christ  Church. \nThis  quaint  street  leads \nup  a  short  ascent  to \nCopp's  Hill  burying-ground.  Before  reaching \nthat  inclosure,  however,  we  pass  on  the  left, \nhalf-way  up  the  hill,  an  old  gambrel-roof  house, \n\n194 \n\n\nTHE  HOUSE  IN  HULL  STREET \nWHERE  GAGE  IS  SAID  TO  HAVE \nPLANNED  THE  BATTLE  OF \nBUNKER    HILL \n\n\n•p<o \n\n\nW     ~ \n\nm  ..2 \n\nen  N \n\n<u    | \n\n,o  - \n\ni-    i- \n\n1»    o \n\n,C      5 \n\n-*-*      £ \n\n>  .a \n\nc \n\nu \n\nA \n\no  H \n\n(1 \n\nw \n\nS  k \n\nY, \n\n0)    « \n\nr\" \n\nt  \"^ \n\nrt  & \n\n\n.2     s \n\n\n195 \n\n\nI  N       A  X  D       ABOUT       BOS  T  O  X \n\nto  which  —  so  Job  Pray  said  (Cooper's  Lionel \nLincoln  i  Gage  secretly  retired  to  plan  the  battle \nof    Bunker   Hill.      Remarkably  well  preserved \ninside  and  out  is  the  house,  unchanged  since  it \nwas  built.      It  is  now  occupied  by  a  venerable \nlittle  Irishman  \"bowed  with  his  fourscore  years \nand  ten  \"  —  a  well-known  and  unique  character \nin  a  neighbourhood  Italian— who  is  persuaded \nsometimes    to    allow    within    his     gates    the \nstranger    permitted     not    to    conjure   up    the \nshades    of    Cooper's    characters,  but    quaintly \nmade  conversant    of    the  fact  that  mine  host, \nnow  retired  from  active  business,  is  the  oldest \nliving  fish  merchant  on  T  \\\\  harf. \n\nIt  is  but  a  few  steps  on  to  Copp's  Hill  bury- \nino--oround  where \n\nEach  in  his  narrow  cell  former  laid \n\nThe  rude  forefathers  of  the  hamlet  sle  $ \n\nHere,  too.  sleeps  the  gentle  Grace  Osborne, \nwho  moves  like  some  spirit  from  another  world \nthrough  the  pages  of  The  Rebels,  the  hero  of \nwhich.  Captain  Somerville,  breaking  faith  with \nher.  likewise  broke  her  tender  heart.    Even-one \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nremembers  the  exquisite  letter  of  forgiveness \nand  farewell  she  left  for  him  and  which  was \nfowarded  to  the  King's  Head  Tavern,  Balti- \nmore, where  he  was  then  supposed  to  be. \n\"  Three  weeks  after  a  young  man  called  upon \nthe  sexton  and  requested  the  key  of  Mr.  Os- \nborne's tomb.  With  weak,  irregular  steps  he \nentered  the  house  of  death,  and  raised  the  lid \nof  the  coffin  last  placed  there.  ...  Not  a \nsigh-,  not  a  tear  relieved  the  bursting-  anguish \nof  his  heart.  His  eye  accidentally  rested  on \nthe  inscription: — Grace  Osborne,  aged  19. \nDeparted  this  life  May  27th,  1769.\"  A  month \nlater  Captain  Somerville  died  and  was  laid  to \nrest  not  far  from  his  mourned  love,  in  the  south- \neast corner  of  the  cemetery  where  the  tomb  of \nthe  Hutchinson  family,  of  which  he  was  a \nmember,  still  remains.  The  beautiful  coat-of- \narms  of  the  aristocratic  family  emblazons  the \nslab  of  sand-stone  which  covers  the  entrance  to \nthe  tomb  desecrated  by  an  act  of  vandalism,  for \nthe  name  of  Hutchinson  has  been  obliterated \nand  that  of  Thomas  Lewis  cut  in  its  place. \n\n198 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nWith  broad  and   brilliant    strokes  in  Lionel \nLincoln  Cooper   paints   for  us  this  famed   hill. \n\n\nTHE    SPOT    FROM    WHICH    LIONEL    LINCOLN \nWATCHED  THE  BATTLE  OF  BUNKER  HILL \n\n\" — he,  too,  is  for  Copp's,  where  we  can  all  take \na  lesson  in  arms  by  studying  the  manner  in  which \nHowe  wields  his  battalions.\" — Cooper 's  \"Lionel \nLi  )i  coin.\" \n\nHe  has  described  it  by  moonlight,  when  the \nscene  was  so  weird  and  uncanny  that  Lionel \nrefused  to  wander    there  among  the    graves  ; \n\n199 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\naeain  at  night  in  stirring  times  when,  restless \nand  excited,  Lionel  found  himself  issuing  upon \nthe  open  space  that  is  tenanted  by  the  dead. \n\"  On  this  eminence  the  English  general  had \ncaused  a  battery  of  heavy  cannon  to  be  raised, \nand  Lionel,  unwilling  to  encounter  the  chal- \nlenge of  the  sentinels,  inclining  a  little  to  one \nside,  proceeded  to  the  brow  of  the  hill,  and \nseating  himself  on  a  stone,  began  to  muse \ndeeply  on  his  own  fortunes  and  the  situation \nof  the  country.  .  .  .  The  stillness  of  midnight \nrested  on  the  scene,  and  when  the  loud  calls  of \n\"all's  well\"  ascended  from  the  ships  and  batter- \nies, the  momentary  cry  was  succeeded  by  a  quiet \nas  deep  as  if  the  universe  slumbered  under  this \nassurance  of  safety.\"  From  this  elevation,  with \nClinton  and  Burgoyne,  Lionel  watched  through \na  spy-glass  the  fighting  at  Bunker  Hill  —  told \nby  the  novelist  in  so  graphic  and  pictorial  a  man- \nner that  Bancroft,  the  historian,  says  it  is  the \nfinest  description  of  the  battle  we  have. \n\nIn  these    days  there    was  an    unobstructed \nview  of  Charlestown,  and  the  whole  scene  of \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nthe  bloody  struggle  lay  before  these  men,  who, \nin  the  beginning,  thought  it  a  glorious  spectacle \nbut  quickly  began  to  realize  that  the  incessant \nroll  of  the  American  musketry  was  something \nto  be  respected,  nay  feared  ;  and  when,  as  the \nconflict  proceeded  the  result  was  known,  the \nbewildered  group  on  Copps  gazed  in  each \nothers'  faces  with  undisguised  amazement,  and \nthen  made  a  mad  rush  down  the  hill  to  the \nshore  and  a  boat  which  they  ordered  to  quickly \nconvey  them  to  the  scenes  of  operations.  To \nappreciate  the  sensation  of  Major  Lincoln  and \nhis  brother  officers  of  that  momentous  day  cne \nmust  turn  to  the  sixteenth  chapter  of  Lionel  Lin- \ncoln which  alone  would  have  given  Cooper  fame. \nA  stone's  throw  from  Copp's  Hill,  at  the \ncorner  of  Prince  and  Margaret  Streets,  stands \nthe  home  of  Master  John  Tileston  (Bynner's \nZachary  Phips).  Time  has  laid  its  destruc- \ntive hand  on  the  old  house,  which,  neverthe- \nless, holds  its  own  as  one  of  the  few  remainino- \nexamples  of  the  simple  architecture  of  pre- \nRevolutionary  days. \n\n203 \n\n\nDOCK \n\nT- \n^h  S  - \n\naross  -  - \n\n- \n- \n\n•  so  doing \n\n-  -  jl  -     ,: \n\n- \n-     -  sooeofl \n\nare      -    - \n\n\"    -    -     -      . \n\n- \n\n-    -      -  ■   ■   . \n\nriest  -- \n\n-      : \n\"      ~ \" \" \"  \"    -  the \n\n\nIN  B  O \n\n\"Wild  :ribed  in \n\n\\V.  Chambers's  colon  The \n\ntavern — an    ancient,    discoloured,     rami \nstructure  a \n\nred  porch  infr \n\n„n-boar \ncrea:    re      hich  doub: \n\nan \nt  ^cratic  neighbourhood.  \"Warehouses,  ship- \nchandlers,    ro:    -  ops \nline                                                    :h  vacant,  bar- \n\nfcs      F  groun        rare!  -:»undec \n\nwooden    fei  .  .     Northward    across   the \n\nmis:  le  roof  and \n\ntown  reddened  in  the  sun ;  to  1 \ncannon  on  Copps  g         red.   p       tine  sea- \n\nlover  the  N  est        iter  W  IL       From \n\nlere  in  th-r      :        .         :he  beating  of \ndrums  and  the  faint  squei    ng     f  fifes  \"ion \n\nbanner  /and flapped  from  Beacon  Hill: \n\nned  the   summit    of \nishesc :  the  Beacon  sm-: \nas  first    ren  bv \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\nReturning  now  to  Blackstone  Street  and \ncrossing  it,  we  continue  a  few  steps  in  Hanover \nStreet,  when  a  sharp  turn  to  the  left  brings  us \n\ninto  Marshall  Street \nand  up  to  the  Boston \nStone,  where,  on  the \nnight  of  the  14th  of \nAugust,  1765,  Henry \nOsborne  lingered  to \nwatch  the  ominous \nbon-fire  on  Fort  Hill \nso  vividly  described \nin  the  opening  chap- \nter of  The  Rebels. \nThough  this  stone \nbears  the  date  of \n1737  and  has  a \nunique  history,  it  is \npassed  unnoticed  by \nthe  majority  of  per- \nsons who  frequent  the  neighbourhood. \n\nFrom  here  we  pass  down  Union  Street  or \ntake  a   short   cut  to   North    Street    by  Creek \n\n206 \n\n\nh^-^'  nin   — '.     —    \n\n\"  He  leaned  a  moment  on  Un- \nion (Boston)  Stone  listening  to \nthe  distant  tumult.\" — Lydia  M. \nChild's  \"  The   Rebels.\"'  ' \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nLane  and  Scottow's  Alley,  emerging  upon \nFaneuil  Hall,  in  Dock  Square. \n\nFrankland,  the  Collector  (Bynner's  Agnes \nSurriage),  attended  the  great  meeting  there \nwhen  Master  John  Lovell  pronounced  the  fu- \nneral oration  upon  the  widely  mourned  Peter \nFaneuil,  and  the  novelist  gives  us  an  amusing\" \naccount  of  a  conversation  after  the  meeting, \nbetween  the  Collector  and  Master  Pelham, \nwho,  jealous  of  the  honour  conferred  on  his \nbrother  pedagogue,  consoled  himself  by  tart \ncriticism  of  the  oration.  In  The  Rebels  is \nalso  pictured  a  Faneuil  Hall  meeting,  this  an \nexciting  one  called  by  Samuel  Adams  to  pro- \ntest against  the  ruined  mansion  of  Hutchin- \nson and  petition  the  Legislature  to  repair  it  at \nthe  expense  of  the  State. \n\nOn  the  south  side  of  Faneuil  Hall,  partially \nhidden  in  old  Corn  Court,  is  standing  the  his- \ntoric Hancock  Tavern  which  figures  in  Byn- \nner's Zachary  Phips.  The  stable  yard  where \nZach  loved  to  mingle  with  the  crowd  of  teams- \nters, hostlers  and  hangers-on,  is  no  more,  but \n\n209 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\nthe  house  itself  has  undergone  few  changes \nand  its  bar  would  seem  to  be  doing  at  the \npresent  time  as  flourishing  a  business  as  in  the \ndays  of  Zach  and  again  of  Talleyrand,  who  is \n\nsaid  to  have  sojourned \nthere  when  in  Boston  in \n1 795.  The  sign  of  the \ntavern  bearing  the \nweather-stained  features \nof  Governor  Hancock \nhas  been  removed  from \nthe  door  and  placed  in \na  room  teeming  with \nhistoric  but,  alas!  no  lit- \n-  erary  interest. \n\nSuch     interest,     how- \never, centres  in  the  neigh- \nrtrte.  bourhood    of    Dock \n\nyard  of  the  old  Brasier  Inn.\" —    c         ~        ,..l,.Vk        ,V       ^1-,^ \n\nBynn^s-ZacharyPhipsr  Square,  which  is  the \nscene  of  much  of  Lionel  Lincoln.  When  the \nyoung  British  major  frequented  it,  its  centre  was \na  swinging  bridge  thrown  across  an  inlet  from \nthe  harbour  and  extending  a  short  distance  into \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nthe  area,  forming  a  shallow  dock.  The  square \nwas  composed  of  low,  gloomy  buildings,  in  one \nof  which,  a  warehouse  standing  within  the \nmemory  of  many  persons,  the  mysterious \nRalph  lived  with  Abigail  and  Job  Pray. \n\nA  short  walk  up  through  here  across  Adams \nSquare  and  we  come  upon  Cornhill,  as  quaint \nand  interesting  as  its  London  prototype. \nThe  character  of  the  street  has  changed  some- \nwhat since  Trowbridge's.  Mart  in  Merrivale,  the \nhero  of  the  novel  of  that  name,  sought  out \na  publisher  there  for  his  precious  manuscript, \nThe  Beggar  of  Bagdad,  but  if  publishers  have \nlargely  abandoned  it  to  other  trades,  booksellers \nstill  find  it  a  lucrative  field,  and  on  either  side \nof  its  winding  street  are  fascinating  antiquar- \nian shops.  Martin  Merrivale  hopefully  seek- \ning out  a  publisher  lives  through  sensations \nstill  vivid  in  the  experience  of  his  creator,  John \nT.  Trowbridge,  when,  as  a  young  man,  he  went \nto  Xew  York  to  seek  his  literary  fortunes \n\nIt  is  more  than  probable  that  to  Cornhill \nalso  came  the  brave-hearted  old  Master  Byles \n\n213 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nGridley  (Holmes's  The  Guardian  Angel), \nbringing  his  protege,  the  embryo  poet,  Gifted \nHopkins,  to  call  on  a  publisher  who  might  be \npersuaded  to  purchase  his  MS.,  a  collection \nof  poems  entitled  \"  Blossoms  of  the  Soul.\"  In \nreferring  to  this  fictitious  young  poet  Holmes \nsays:  \"Perhaps  I  have  been  too  hard  with \nGifted  Hopkins  and  the  tribe  of  rhymesters  to \nwhich  he  belongs.  I  ought  not  to  forget  that \nI,  too,  introduced  myself  to  the  reading  world \nin  a  thin  volume  of  verses,  many  of  which  had \nbetter  not  have  been  written,  and  would  not \nbe  reprinted  now,  but  for  the  fact  that  they \nhave  established  a  right  to  a  place  among  my \npoems  in  virtue  of  long  occupancy.  Besides, \nalthough  the  writing-  of  verses  is  often  a  mark \nof  mental  weakness,  I  cannot  forget  that \nJoseph  Story  and  George  Bancroft  each  pub- \nlished his  little  book  of  rhymes,  and  that  John \nOuincy  Adams  had  left  many  poems  on  record, \nthe  writing  of  which  did  not  interfere  with  the \nvast  and  important  labors  of  his  illustrious \ncareer.\" \n\n214 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nAcross  from  Cornhill,  on  the  space  now  oc- \ncupied by  Codmen's  Buildings,  once  stood \nEarl's  Coffee-house,  from  which  Zach  (Bynner's \nZachary  Phips)  started  out  to  New  York  on \nthe  fast  mail  coach,  the  Flying  Cloud.  At  the \nhead  of  Cornhill,  in  the  former  residence  of \none  John  Wendell,  was  the  Royal  Custom \nHouse  at  the  time  Frankland  (Bynner's  Agues \nSurriage)  was  Collector.  Near  by  was  the \nstudio  of  John  Smybert,  who,  by  Frankland's \norder,  painted  the  portrait  of  Agnes.  Some- \ntimes at  her  sittings,  the  novelist  says,  she  ran \nacross  the  little  Jack  Copley  whom  Smybert \nwas  teaching,  and  of  whom  he  truly  prophesied \nwhen  he  said  :  \"  He  hae  the  richt  stuff  in  him. \n.  .  .  he's  bound  to  go  far  ahead  o'  his  old  mais- \nter  ane  o'  thae  days.\"  Through  this  old  Scot's \nestate  Brattle  Street  in  after  times  burst  forth \ninto  Scollay  Square. \n\nJust  south  of  here  in  Queen  Street,  now \nCourt,  lived  the  Osbornes  {The  Rebels)  where \nGovernor  Hutchinson  and  his  family  took \nrefuge  at   the  time  his  mansion  was  attacked. \n\n215 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nIn  Queen  Street,  says  the  author  of  Cardigan, \nwas  the  elegant  mansion  of  Mrs.  Hamilton \nwho  plays  a  leading  part  in  the  book.  Here \nalso  was  the  Court-house  and  prison  where \nCardigan  and  Jack  Mount  were  confined. \n\"  From  the  29th  of  October  until  the  15th  day \nof  December  chained  ankle  to  ankle,  wrist  to \nwrist,  and  wearing  a  steel  collar  from  which \nchains  hunor  and  were  riveted  to  the  rino-s  on \nmy  legs,  I  lay  in  that  vile  iron  cage  known  as \nthe  '  Pirates'  Chapel'  in  company  with  Mount \nand  eight  sullen,  cursing  ruffians.\" \n\nIdentified  with  this  street  are  the  tragic  fig- \nures of  Hawthorne's  Scarlet  Letter  of  which \nHolmes  wrote  : \n\n/  snatch  the  book,  along  whose  burning  leaves \nHis  scarlet  web  our  wild  romancer  weaves. \n\nThe  jail  where  Hester  Prynne  was  confined \nwas  the  Old  Prison  in  Prison  Lane,  as  it  was \ncalled  before  it  became  Queen  and  later  Court \nStreet.  This  is  not  the  jail  described  in  Car- \ndigan, but  a  structure  of  a  much  earlier  date. \n\"  Some  fifteen  or  twenty  years  after  the  settle- \n\n216 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nment  of  the  town  {The  Scarlet  Letter)  the \nwooden  jail  was  already  marked  with  weather- \nstains  and  other  indications  of  age,  which  gave \na  yet  darker  aspect  to  its  beetle-browed  and \ngloomy  front.  The  rust  on  the  ponderous \niron-work  of  its  oaken  door  looked  more  an- \ntique than  anything  else  in  the  New  World. \nLike  all  that  pertains  to  crime,  it  seemed  never \nto  have  known  a  youthful  era.  Before  this \nugly  edifice,  and  between  it  and  the  wheel- \ntrack  of  the  street,  was  a  grass-plot,  much \nover-grown  with  burdock,  pigweed,  apple-peru, \nand  such  unsightly  vegetation,  which  evidently \nfound  something  congenial  in  the  soil  that  had \nso  early  borne  the  black  flower  of  civilized \nsociety,  a  prison.  But,  on  one  side  of  the  por- \ntal, and  rooted  almost  at  the  threshold,  was  a \nwild-rose  bush,  covered,  in  this  month  of  June, \nwith  its  delicate  gems,  which  might  be  imagined \nto  offer  their  fragrance  and  fragile  beauty  to \nthe  prisoner  as  he  went  in,  and  to  the  con- \ndemned criminal  as  he  came  forth  to  his  doom \nin  token  that  the  deep   heart  of  Nature  could \n\n217 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\npity  and  be  kind  to  him.\"  This  jail  as  well  as \n\"Pirates'  Chapel\"  (Chamber's  Cardigan) \nstood  on  the  site  of  the  present  old  Court \nHouse  in  Court  Street. \n\nThe  immediate  neighbourhood  was  the  mar- \nket place  in  which  Hester  Prynne  (The  Scarlet \nLetter)  was  forced  to  exhibit  herself  with  her \nbaby  in  her  arms  and  the  ignominious  letter \non  her  breast,  and  at  the  western  extremity  of \nthe  market  place  was  the  scaffold,  \"  a  penal \nmachine  which  now  for  two  or  three  trenera- \ntions  past,  has  been  merely  historical  and  tra- \nditional among  us,  but  was  held,  in  the  old \ntime,  to  be  as  effectual  an  agent,  in  the  promo- \ntion of  good  citizenship,  as  ever  was  the  guil- \nlotine among  the  terrorists  of  France.  .  .  .  Hes- \nter's sentence  bore  that  she  should  stand  a  cer- \ntain time  upon  the  platform,  but  without  under- \ngoing the  grip  about  the  neck  and  confinement \nof  the  head,  the  proneness  to  which  was  the  most \ndevilish  characteristic  of  this  ugly  engine.\" \n\nThe  scaffold  stood  nearly  beneath  the  eaves \nof  Boston's  earliest  church  situated  where  now \n\n218 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nstands  the  Rogers  building'.  Historically  this \nwas  the  first  church  of  Boston  built  originally \non  ground  at  the  head  of  what  is  now  State \nStreet,  a  site  occupied  by  Brazer's  Building, \nbut  in  1640,  just  before  the  opening  of  The \nScarlet  Letter  romance,  it  was  removed  to  the \nlocality  Hawthorne  describes.  There  the  Rev. \nMr.  Dimmesdale  preached  the  Election  Ser- \nmon, and  vivid  in  every  mind  must  be  his  sen- \nsational disclosure  and  the  events  preceding \nand  following  it.  That  The  Scarlet  Letter \nis  founded  on  fact  is  well  known,  but  it  has \nbeen  stoutly  denied  that  Hawthorne  drew  his \nerring  minister  from  the  Rev.  Thomas  Cob- \nbett,  of  Lynn,  who,  in  1649,  tne  >'ear  named, \nactually  delivered  the  Election  Sermon. \n\nIn  this  locality  stood  the  town  pump  in \nCourt  Street,  which,  aided  by  Hawthorne's \nMuse,  thus  invoked  the  passer-by  :  \"  Like  a \ndram-seller  on  the  Mall  at  muster-day  I  cry \naloud  to  all  and  sundry,  in  my  plainest  accents \nand  at  the  very  tip-top  of  my  voice  :  '  Here  it  is, \ngentlemen  !   Here  is  the  good  liquor  !   Walk  up, \n\n219 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nwalk  up,  gentlemen,  walk  tip,  walk  up.  Here  is \nthe  superior  stuff ;  here  is  the  unadulterated \nale  of  Father  Adam — better  than  Cognac,  Hol- \nlands, Jamaica,  strong  beer,  or  wine  of  any \nprice  ;  here  it  is  by  the  hogshead  or  single \nglass,  and  not  a  cent  to  pay !  Walk  up,  gen- \ntlemen, walk  up,  and  help  yourselves  !' ' \n\nIn  modern  Court  Street  was  the  office  of \nMr.  David  Willis  (Aldrich's  Goliath)  and  pre- \nsumably of  another  lawyer  in  fiction,  Tom \nHarbinger  (Bates's  Love  in  a  Cloud)  who  was \nnever  known  to  stir  from  his  orifice  without  his \nbag  —  \"a  lawyer's  green  bag  is  in  Boston  as \nmuch  a  part  of  his  dress  as  his  coat  is.\" \n\nIV.  STATE  STREET  AND  THE  KING'S \nCHAPEL  NEIGHBOURHOOD \n\nWE    now    reach     the    head     of     State \nStreet  where  stands,  as  in  the  old \ndays,      the      Town     House,     now \nknown  as  the  Old  State  House.      In  one  of  its \nstate  rooms  occurred  the  celebration  in  honour \nof  the  Louisburg- heroes  to  which  reference  has \n\n\nffi  ^  ^    ^ \n\n1  333  B  -i  I \n\nH 3 ?g  u \n\n\nTHE    OLD    STATE    HOI \n\n\n'  Through  days  of  sorrow  and  of  mirth, \nThrough  days  of  death  and  days  of  birth, \nThrough  every  swift  vicissitude \n\nOf  changeful  time,  unchanged  it  has  stood \n&  — Longjello't \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nbeen  made  of  the  description  of  this  event  in \nthe  pages  of  Agues  Surriage.  Among  the \nmany  pictures  adorning  the  rooms  of  this  his- \ntoric building,  now  preserved  as  a  museum,  two \nhave  distinct  literary  value  —  one,  the  full- \nlength  portrait  of  that  noted  woman  and  novel- \nist, Mrs.  Harrison  Gray  Otis  ;  the  other  a  re- \nproduction of  the  portrait  of  Holmes's  cele- \nbrated \"Dorothy  O.\"  his \n\nGrandmother  s  mother  :  her  age,  I  guess \nThirteen  summers,  or  something  less; \nGirlish  bust,    ut  womanly  air ; \nSmooth,  square  forehead  with  uprolled  hair. \nLips  that  lover  has  never  kissed; \nTaper  fingers  and  slender  wrist; \nHanging  sleeves  of  stiff\"  brocade; \nSo  they  painted  the  little  maid. \n\nStanding  beneath  the  lion  and  the  unicorn \nof  the  old  State  House  we  find  Jamie  McMur- \ntagh  (Stimson's  Pirate  Gold)  on  the  twenty- \nseventh  day  of  May,  eighteen  fifty-four, \nwatching  a  scene  memorable  in  the  history  of \nBoston  and  thus  graphically  pictured  for  us \nby    the     novelist:   \"Through     historic    State \n\n223 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nStreet,  cleared  now  as  for  a  triumph,  marched \na  company  of  Federal  troops.  Behind  them, \nin  a  hollow  square,  followed  a  body  of  rough- \nappearing  men,  each  with  a  short  Roman \nsword  and  a  revolver ;  and  in  the  open  centre, \nalone  and  handcuffed,  one  trembling  negro. \nThe  fife  had  stopped,  and  they  marched  now \nin  a  hushed  silence  to  the  tap  of  a  solitary \ndrum ;  and  behind  came  the  naval  marines \nwith  cannon.  The  street  was  hung  across \nwith  flags,  union  down  or  draped  in  black,  but \nthe  crowd  was  still.  And  all  along  the  street, \nas  far  down  as  the  wharf,  where  the  free  sea \nshone  blue  in  the  May  sunshine,  stood,  on \neither  side,  a  close  rank  of  Massachusetts \nmilitia,  with  bayonets  fixed,  four  thousand \nstrong,  restraining,  behind,  the  fifty  thousand \nmen  who  muttered  angrily,  but  stood  still. \nThus  much  it  took  to  hold  the  old  Bay  State \ndown  to  the  Union  in  1854,  and  carry  one \nslave  from  it  to  bondage.  Down  the  old \nstreet  it  was  South  Carolina  that  walked  that \nday  beneath  the  national  flag,  and  Massachu- \n\n224 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nsetts  that  did  homage,  biding  her  time  until \nher  sister  State  should  turn  her  arms  upon  the \nemblem.\" \n\nA  familiar  tramping  ground  was  this  busy \ncommercial  thoroughfare  to  Jamie,  who  always \nwalked  \"  twice  daily  up  the  street  to  the  Old \nColony  Bank,  bearing  in  a  rusty  leathern  wal- \nlet anything,  from  nothing  to  a  hundred  thou- \nsand dollars,  the  daily  notes  and  discounts  of \nJames  Bowdoin's  Sons.\"  This  bank,  under \nthe  disguise  of  the  Old  Colony,  is  the  Boston \nNational  Bank,  which,  since  1803,  has  been \ndoing  business  at  Number  50  State  Street. \nThe  imaginary  Mr.  James  Bowdoin  was  one  of \nthe  directors,  as  was  in  reality  his  prototype, \nMr.  Josiah  Bradlee,  and  it  will  be  remembered \nthat  Jamie  took  a  clerkship  there  when  his  old \nfirm  ceased  to  do  business  in  India  Wharf. \nJamie,  a  most  Dickensy  character,  owes  his \nbeing  to  the  brain  of  Mr.  Stimson,  but  it  was \nsaid  that  he  is  suggestive  now  and  then  of  a \nformer  messenger  of  a  bank  named  Brecken- \nridge,  who,  early  in  the  century,  began  life  as \n\n225 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nan  \"  inside  man  \" — as  the   Boston  phrase  is — \nin  the  Bradlee  family.     The  pirate  gold  from \n\n\n\"  Jamie  always  walked  twice  daily  up  State  Street  to  the  Old \nColony  Bank,  bearing  in  a  rusty  leathern  wallet  anything,  from \nnothing  to  a  hundred  thousand  dollars,  the  daily  notes  and  discounts \nof   James  Bowdoin's  Sons.\" — Stimsoris  ''Pirate  Gold.\" \n\nwhich  Mr.  Stimson's  story  gets  its  title,  and \nwhich  was  responsible  for  all  the  joy  and  misery \nin  Jamie's  life,  really  lay,  as  described,  in  its  little \n\n226 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nmouldy  bag  \"  for  nearly  thirty  years,  high  on  a \nshelf,  in  an  old  chest,  behind  three  tiers  of \ntins  of  papers,  in  the  deepest  corner  of  the \nvault  of  the  bank.  It  was  never  merged  in \nother  funds,  nor  converted,  nor  put  at  interest. \n.  .  but  carried,  in  specie,  in  its  original  pack- \nage •  four  hundred  and  twenty-three  American \neao-les  and  fifteen  hundred  and  fifty-six  Span- \n\nish  doubloons.      Deposited  by  ■ de  Soto, \n\nJune  twenty-fourth,  eighteen  hundred  and \ntwenty-nine;  for  the  benefit  of  whom  it  may \nconcern?  And  it  very  much  concerned  Jamie, \nwhom  to  know  is  to  sorrow  for  and  love. \n\nThe  State  Street  of  to-day  is  graphically  de- \nscribed by  Mr.  Edward  Bellamy  in  Looking \nBackward.  \"  Toward  three  o'clock,\"  the  hero \nsays,  \"  I  stood  on  State  Street,  staring,  as  if  I \nhad  never  seen  them  before,  at  the  banks  and \nbrokers'  offices,  and  other  financial  institutions, \nof  which  there  had  been  in  the  State  Street  of \nmy  vision  no  vestige.  Business  men,  confi- \ndential clerks,  and  errand  boys  were  thronging \nin   and   out  of  the  banks,  for  it  wanted  but  a \n\n227 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nfew  minutes  of  the  closing  hour.  Opposite \nme  was  the  bank  where  I  did  business,  and \npresently  I  crossed  the  street,  and  going  in \nwith  the  crowd,  stood  in  a  recess  of  the  way \nlooking  on  at  the  army  of  clerks  handling \nmoney,  and  the  cues  of  depositors  at  the  teller's \nwindows.  An  old  gentleman  whom  I  knew,  a \ndirector  of  the  bank,  stopped  a  moment.  '  In- \nteresting sight,  isn't  it,  Mr.  West?'  he  said. \n'Wonderful  piece  of  mechanism;  I  find  it  so \nmyself.  .  .  .  It's  a  poem,  sir,  a  poem,  that's \nwhat  I  call  it.  Did  you  ever  think  that  the \nbank  is  the  heart  of  the  business  system  ? \nFrom  it  and  to  it,  in  endless  flux  and  reflux, \nthe  life  blood  goes.  It  is  flowing  in  now.  It \nwill  flow  out  again  in  the  morning  ;'  and  pleased \nwith  his  little  conceit,  the  old  man  passed  on \nsmiling.  .  .  .  Alas  for  the  poor  old  bank  direc- \ntor with  his  poem !  He  had  mistaken  the \nthrobbing  of  an  abscess  for  the  beating  of  the \nheart.\" \n\nRetracing    our    steps    back    again    through \nCourt  Street  we  come  to  Tremont  Row  where \n\n223 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nthe  hero   of   Miss    Phelps's   A    Singular  Life \nhad  his  unpleasant  quarter  of  an  hour  with  the \nmaudlin  Job  Slip.     Bayard,  it  will  be  remem- \nbered, was  driving  to  the  station  with  Helen \nCarruth  when  he  came  upon  the  delinquent. \n\"  Struggling  in  the  iron  grip  of  two  policemen \nof  assorted  sizes,  the  form  and  tongue  of  Job \nSlip  were  forcibly  ornamenting  Tremont  Row.\" \nRescued  by  his  minister,  \"Job,  who  was  not \ntoo  far  gone  to  recognize   his  preserver,   now \nthrew  his   arms  affectionately  around  Bayard's \nrecoiling  neck  and  became  unendurably  maud- \nlin.     In  a  voice  audible  the  width  of  the  street, \nand  with  streaming  tears  and  loathsome  bless- \nings, he  identified  Bayard  as  his  dearest,  best, \nnearest,  and  most  intimate  of  friends.\" \n\nJust  beyond  here  in  Tremont  Street  is  the \nMuseum,  a  theatre  dear  to  the  hearts  of  the \nBostonese,  where  Edward  Everett  Hale's  de- \nlightful characters  go  frequently  to  see  the \nwell-remembered  William  Warren.  In  A \nModern  Instance  Mr.  Howells  describes  the \nplace  as  old  Bostonians  remember  it  :      '  They \n\n229 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\npassed  in  through  the  long  colonnaded  vesti- \nbule, with  its  paintings  and  plaster  casts,  and \nrows  of  birds  and  animals  in  glass  cases  on \neither  side,  and  Marcia  gave  scarcely  a  glance \nat  any  of  those  objects,  endeared  by  associa- \ntion, if  not  by  intrinsic  beauty,  to  the  Boston \nplaygoer.  Gulliver,  with  the  Liliputians \nswarming  upon  him ;  the  painty-necked  os- \ntriches and  pelicans  ;  the  mummied  mermaid \nunder  a  glass  bell  ;  the  governor's  portraits ; \nthe  stuffed  elephant ;  Washington  crossing  the \nDelaware  ;  Cleopatra  applying  the  asp  ;  Sir \nWilliam  Pepperel  at  full  length,  on  canvas,  and \nthe  pagan  months  and  seasons  in  plaster,  .  ,  . \nwere  dim  phantasmagoria  amid  which  she  and \nBartley  moved  scarcely  more  than  real.\" \n\nAdjoining  the  Museum  is  the  venerated \nburying-ground  and \n\n—  Chapel,  last  of  sublunary  tilings \n\nThat  shocks  our  echoes  with  the  name  of  Kings. \n\nHawthorne  tells  us  that  Dimmesdale  and \nRoger  Chillingworth  (The  Scarlet  Letter) \ndwelt  in  a   house  covering  pretty  nearly  the \n\n230 \n\n\ne<o \n\n\n<1)    ^ \n\n\nc    &0 \n\n\nST \n\n\n?! \n\n\n231 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nsite  on  which  King's  Chapel  has  since  been \nbuilt.  \"It  had  the  graveyard,\"  says  the  ro- \nmancer, \"on  one  side,  and  so  well  adapted  to \ncall  up  serious  reflections,  suited  to  their  re- \nspective employments,  in  both  minister  and \nthe  man  of  physic.\" \n\nRich  in  fictional  association  is  this  burying- \nground  where,  in  their  last  sleep  lie  Dimmes- \ndale  and  Hester  Prynne.  Many  years  after \nDimmesdale  died  \"a  new  crave  was  delved \nnear  an  old  and  sunken  one,  in  that  burial- \nground  beside  which  King's  Chapel  has  since \nbeen  built.  It  was  near  that  old  and  sunken \ngrave,  yet  with  a  space  between,  as  if  the  dust \nof  the  two  sleepers  had  no  right  to  mingle. \nYet  one  tombstone  served  for  both.  All \naround,  there  were  monuments  carved  with \narmorial  bearings  ;  and  on  this  simple  slab  of \nslate  there  appeared  the  semblance  of  an  en- \ngraved escutcheon.  It  bore  a  device,  a  herald's \nwording  of  which  miodit  serve  for  a  motto  and \nbrief  description  of  our  now  concluded  legend  ; \nso  sombre  is  it,  and  relieved  only  by  one  ever- \n\n233 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nglowing    point    of    light    gloomier    than     the \nshadow  :  — \n\n\"  'On  a  field,  sable,  the  It  Iter  A,  gules'  \" \n\nTo  curious  investigators  are  pointed  out \nseveral  graves  which  bear  a  slight  resemblance \nto  the  one  thus  described,  on  which  in  Haw- \nthorne's day,  he  asserts,  was  plainly  to  be  seen \nthe  letter  A,  visible  now  on  no  tombstone \nsave  only  as  it  takes  form  in  the  necromancy \nof  the  imagination. \n\nHere,  too,  lie  the  Shirleys  who  figure  in  the \npages  of  Agnes  Surriage  and  Mrs.  Lechmere, \nRalph,  Job  and  Abigail  Pray  of  Lionel  Lin- \ncoln. The  tomb  of  the  Shirleys  —  real  per- \nsonages in  fiction — remains,  but  it  is  impossible \nto  designate  the  spot  where  the  proud  families \nof  Lechmere  and  Lincoln  were  wont  to  inter \ntheir  dead.  The  slate,  Cooper  says,  has  long \nsince  mouldered  from  the  wall ;  the  sod  has \ncovered  the  stone. \n\nKing's  Chapel,  venerated  by  present  day \nBostonians,  vies  with  the  old  burying-ground \nin  fictional  interest.      Here,  with  his  relatives \n\n234 \n\n\n.5  ~ \n'-5  J: \n\n\n1)  s \n\n\nrt   8 \n\n\nC^ \n\n\nO-, \n\n\nx  3  r- \n\n\no  2 \n\n\nc  .5 \n\n\nC \n\n\n235 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nand  brother  officers,  Major  Lincoln  (Cooper's \nLionel  Lincoln)  worshipped  ;  so,  too,  did  the \nBowdoins,  Jamie  and  Mercedes  {Pirate  Gold)  ; \nFrankland,  Agnes  and  the  Shirleys  {Agnes \nSnrriage),  and  Olive  Chancellor  (Henry \nJames's  The  Bostonians).  Lionel  and  Cecil \nwere  married  there  during  the  Revolution  and \na  glance  into  the  interior  of  the  church  shows \nthe  same  laboured  columns  with  their  slender \nshafts  admired  by  Lionel  and  the  same  chancel \nrails  on  which  Cecil  threw  her  mantle  before \naccompanying  him  to  the  foot  of  the  altar. \n\"  With  some  eclat,\"  St.  Clair  and  Mercedes \n{Pirate  Gold)  were  likewise  married  there. \n\nThe  mind  busying  itself  with  these  imagin- \nary festivities  sees  them  fade  away,  to  be  fol- \nlowed by  two  funeral  processions,  which  rise \nfrom  the  pages  of  fiction  and  flit  phantom-like \ndown  the  aisles.  The  first  is  that  of  Mrs. \nShirley,  the  Governor's  lady  {Agnes  Surriagc), \nwhich  peoples  the  church  to  the  limit  of  the \ngalleries  with  her  mourners  —  \"the  Honour- \nable his  Majesty's  Council   and   the  House  of \n\n237 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nRepresentatives  and  avast  Number  of  the  prin- \ncipal Gentry  of  both  Sexes  of  this  and  the \nNeighbouring  Towns.\"  This  distinguished \ngathering  melts  away  and  a  smaller  one  files  in \nfollowing  the  casket  of  Mrs.  Lechmere  {Lionel \nLincoln)  whose  funeral  train  \"  though  respect- \nable was  far  from  extending  to  that  display  of \nsolemn  countenances  which  Boston,  in  its  peace \nand  pride,  would  not  have  failed  to  exhibit  on \nany  similar  occasion.\"  On  the  south  side  of \nthe  wall  of  the  Chapel  is  a  mural  tablet  to \nFrances  Shirley,  the  Governor's  lady  who  lived \nin  fact  as  well  as  fancy. \n\nIn  The  Bostonians  Henry  James  asserts  that \nto  the  intense  Olive  Chancellor,  evening  ser- \nvice at  King's  Chapel  was  only  one  degree \nmore  solemn  than  o-oing-  to  tjle  theatre.  Anna \nFarquhar,  the  author  of  Her  Boston  Experi- \nences, humourously  chronicles  a  woman  suff ra- \ncist meeting-  here  which  the  heroine  out  of \ncuriosity  attended  with  Aunt  Drusilla.  But  a \ntrue  spirit  of  reverence  for  \"  the  quaint  church \nwith   its  high-backed  box  pews  cushioned   in \n\n233 \n\n\nS3  S \n\n\n.3  \"■ \n\n^a \nI1 \n\nen -a\" \nc  c \n£  I \n\nO  bJD \no  ^ \n\n3     r« \n\nO  3 \n■— ■    (U \n\nJ3  *\" \n\n-      0 \n\n\n239 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nred  stuff,  its  old-fashioned  English  gallery  and \nhigh  pulpit  reached  by  winding  stairs,\"  took \nher  there  many  a  Sunday  afternoon  to  vesper \nservice. \n\nShadowed  by  this  ancient  church  and  bury- \ning-ground,  in  busy  School  Street,  in  front  of \nthe  City  Hall,  stands  the  statue  of  Benjamin \nFranklin,  in  alluding  to  which  Dr.  Hale  in  My \nDouble  and  How  He  Undid  Me  says  :  \"Rich- \nard Greenouodi  once  told  me  that  in  studying1 \nfor  the  statue  of  Franklin  he  found  that  the \nleft  side  of  the  great  man's  face  was  philosophic \nand  reflective,  and  the  right  side  funny  and \nsmiling.  If  you  go  and  look  at  the  bronze \nstatue  you  will  find  he  has  repeated  this  ob- \nservation there  for  posterity.  The  eastern \nprofile  is  the  portrait  of  the  statesman  Frank- \nlin, the  western  of  poor  Richard.\" \n\nAcross  the  street  is  the  Parker  House  or \n\"  Parker's\"  as  it  is  familiarly  known  where  the \n\"  Saturday  Club  gathered  about  the  long  table \n(Holmes's  A  Mortal  Antipathy')  such  a  rep- \nresentation of  all  that  was  best  in  American \n\n241 \n\n\nF  I  W  A I        (AMBLES \n\nliterati:-     is   bad  never  I  within \n\n?     -  -v.;.'.    .1    :     ::     .—       '  [    -:      :'   :/.-_-    A:::-.  -.:..-- \n\n\ni \n\n\n- \n\n\n— \n\n_ .     . .  .  .  _  - \n\nB \n\n\nwhom  educated  foreio  — \n\nout   of   consideration  official  dignitaries, \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nwhose  temporal*}-  importance  makes  them  ob- \njects of  curiosity  —  were  seated  at  that  board. \n\n\n\"  I  never  can  go  into  that  famoos  '  Corner  Book- \n\nand  look  over  the  new  books  .   .   .   without \n\ng  half  a  dozen  which  T  want  to  read,  or  at  least \n\nto   know  something  about.\" — Hoi\".  r  tfu \n\nHowells  makes  frequent  allusions  to  this  hotel \nin  his  Boston  novels,  particularly  in  April \nHopes  and  here  Craighead  (  Truth  Dexter)  dis- \n\n843 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\npatched  a  significant  message  over  the  wires \nto  Truth  in  Alabama. \n\nJust  below  this  house  at  the  northeast  cor- \nner of  School  and  Washington  Streets  stands \na  quaint  little  building,  erected  in  i  712,  where, \ncommercially  speaking,  much  of  the  Boston \nfiction  has  had  its  beginnings.  This  is  the  old \nCorner  Bookstore,  fifty  years  ago  \"a  nervous \ncentre  of  the  growing  literary  system,  where,\" \nsays  a  contemporary  writer,  \"  Mr.  Fields  played \ndestiny  to  the  association  of  authors  and \nlaunched  the  second  volume  of  the  Atlantic, \nthe  first  that  bore  his  imprint.\"  Perhaps  it  is \nnot  generally  remembered  that  this  magazine \nowes  its  name  to  Holmes.  A  favourite  haunt \nwas  this  bookstore  of  the  genial  Autocrat,  who \nin  alluding  to  it  once  wrote  :  \"  I  never  can \ngo  into  that  famous  '  Corner  Bookstore  '  and \nlook  over  the  new  books  in  the  row  before  me, \nas  I  enter  the  door,  without  seeing  half  a \ndozen  which  I  want  to  read,  or  at  least  to \nknow  something  about.  .  .  .  The  titles  of  many \nof  them  interest  me.      I  look  into  one  or  two, \n\n244 \n\n\nIN      AND      ABOUT      BOSTON \n\nperhaps.  I  have  sometimes  picked  up  a  line \nor  sentence,  in  these  momentary  glances  be- \ntween the  uncut  leaves  of  a  new  book,  which \nI  have  never  forgotten.\" \n\nV    WHEN   COMMERCIAL    BOSTON \nWAS   RESIDENTIAL \n\nTHE  commercial  section  of  the   Boston \nof  to-day  differs  from  the  Boston  of \nfifty  years  ago  as  much,  perhaps,  as \nthe  city  of  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  cen- \ntury had  changed  from    the   town    of  wooden \nhouses  of  the  Revolutionary  era.     Modern  en- \nterprise has  transformed  the  old  streets,  while \na  whole  and  entirely  new  Boston  has  risen  on \nland  which  was   submerged  by  every  tide  and \nwhere  in   fresh  winds  the  salt  whitecaps  rolled \nand  tumbled  oftentimes   to  the  destruction  of \nthe  viaduct  of  the  railroads  which  had  boldly \nbridged  the  waste  of  waters  which  surrounded \nthe  almost  inland  city.   In  the  beginning  of  its \nlife  Boston  was  essentially  a  commercial  town \nand  its  inhabitants  looked  to  the  sea  for  their \n\n245 \n\n\nFICTIONAL      RAMBLES \n\nbread  and  for  their  riches.  The  wealth  of  its \npeople  was  in  ships  above  and  far  above  every- \nthing else.  With  the  broadening  of  its  scope \nas  the  profits  from  manufacturing  came  to  the \nfront,  the  relative  importance  of  its  commer- \ncial interests  declined,  and  the  residences  of  its \nwealthiest  citizens,  instead  of  clinging1  along  the \nwater  front,  where  tall  masts  could  be  seen \nfrom  the  windows  and  where  the  smell  of  tar \nconstantly  greeted  the  resident,  pushed  toward \nthe  westward,  as  if  the  salt  water  had  become \nof  less  interest. \n\nBeofinninuf  our  rambles  in  this  section  of  the \ncity  at  Fort  Hill  Square  we  recall  the  days  of \nThe  Rebels  when  the  spot  was  not  the  level \nsquare  we  find  it,  but  a  hill  eighty  feet  high \nand  well  fortified.  After  the  Revolution  the \nhill,  crowned  with  its  park  and  stately  man- \nsions, as  well  as  the  streets  at  its  foot  or  which \ncrawled  up  its  steep  sides,  were  the  birthplaces \nof  the  older  generation  of  aristocratic  present- \nday  Bostonians.  In  imagination  we  climb  to \nits  summit  to  find,  as  described  in  Pirate  Gold, \n\n246 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nthe  home  of  Miss  Abigail  Dowse  which  stood \nwhere  the  sea  breezes  blew  fresh  through  the \nwhite  June  roses  in  the  garden. \n\nLeaving  the  Square  and  wandering  west- \nward through  High  Street  we  come  upon \nPearl  Street,  where,  near  High,  once  stood \n(1822-1849)  tne  Athenaeum,  a  most  interesting \npicture  of  which  is  preserved  for  us  in  the \npages  of  Holmes's  A  Mortal  Antipathy.  \"In \nthose  days,\"  he  reminisces,  \"  the  Athenaeum \nPicture  Gallery  was  a  principal  centre  of  at- \ntraction to  young  Boston  people  and  their \nvisitors.  Many  of  us  got  our  first  idea  of  art, \nto  say  nothing  of  our  first  lessons  in  the  com- \nparatively innocent  flirtations  of  our  city's \nprimitive  period,  in  that  agreeable  resort  of \namateurs  and  artists.  How  the  pictures  on \nthose  walls  in  Pearl  Street  do  keep  their \nplaces  in  the  mind's  gallery !  Trumbull's \nSortie  of  Gibraltar,  with  red  enough  in  it  for \none  of  our  sunset  afterglows  ;  and  Neagle's  full- \nlength  portrait  of  the  blacksmith  in  his  shirt \nsleeves  ;  and  Copley's  long  waistcoated  gentle- \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nmen  and  satin-clad  ladies — they  looked  like \ngentlemen  and  ladies,  too;  and  Stuart's  florid \nmerchants  and  high-waisted  matrons  ;  and  All- \nston's  lovely  Italian  scenery  and  dreamy,  un- \nimpassioned  women,  not  forgetting  Florimel \nin  full  flight  on  her  interminable  rocking-horse, \n—  you  may  still  see  her  at  the  Art  Museum; \nand  the  rival  landscapes  of  Doughty  and \nFisher,  much  talked  of  and  largely  praised  in \nthose  days  ;  and  the  Murillo, —  not  from  Mar- \nshal Soult's  collection;  and  the  portrait  of \nAnnibale  Caracci  by  himself,  which  cost  the \nAthenaeum  a  hundred  dollars;  and  Cole's  alle- \ngorical pictures,  and  his  immense  and  dreary \ncanvas,  in  which  the  prostrate  shepherds  and \nthe  angel  in  Joseph's  coat  of  many  colors  look \nas  if  they  must  have  been  thrown  in  for  noth- \ning ;  and  West's  brawny  Lear  tearing  his \nclothes  to  pieces.  But  why  go  on  with  the \ncatalogue,  when  most  of  these  pictures  can  be \nseen  either  at  the  Athenaeum  building  in  Bea- \ncon Street  or  at  the  Art  Gallery,  and  admired \nor  criticised  perhaps  more  justly,  certainly  not \n\n2J.8 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nmore  generously,  than  in  those  earlier  years \nwhen  we  looked  at  them  through  the  japanned \nfish-horns  ?  \" \n\nIf  we  turn  from  here  into  Pearl  Place  which \nruns  through  to  Oliver  Street  we  can  conjure \nup  the  residence  of  Mrs.  Clymer  Ketchum \n(Holmes's  The  Guardian  Angel),  for  this  was \nundoubtedly  the  locality  described  in  the  novel \nas  Carat  Place.  Many  things  transpired  in  this \nhouse,  notably  the  party  given  for  Myrtle  at \nwhich  dear  old  Master  Byles  Gridley,  Gifted \nHopkins  and  Clement  Lindsay  were  exhibited \nas  lions.  \"  Mrs.  Clymer  Ketchum,  though \nher  acquaintances  were  chiefly  in  the  world  of \nfortune  and  of  fashion,  had  yet  a  certain  weak- \nness for  what  she  called  clever  people.  She \ntherefore  always  variegated  her  parties  with  a \nstreak  of  young  artists  and  writers,  and  a  liter- \nary lady  or  two;  and,  if  she  could  lay  hands \non  a  first-class  celebrity,  was  as  happy  as  an \nAmazon  who  had  captured  a  Centaur.  .  .  . \nShe  knew  how  to  give  a  party.  Let  her  only \nhave    carte  blanche  for    flowers,    music     and \n\n249 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nchampagne,  she  used  to  tell  her  lord,  and  she \nwould  see  to  the  rest.  .  .  He  needn't  be  afraid  : \nall  he  had  to  do  was  to  keep  out  of  the  way.  .  . \nLabour  was  beautifully  subdivided  in  this  lady's \nhousehold.  It  was  old  Ketchum's  business  to \nmake  money  and  he  understood  it.  It  was \nMrs.  K.'s  business  to  spend  money,  and  she \nknew  how  to  do  it.\"  Somewhere  near  here \nwas  the  fashionable  boarding  school  which \nMyrtle  attended  \"  where  there  were  some  very \ngood  instructors  for  girls  who  wished  to  get \nup  useful  knowledge  in  case  they  might  marry \nprofessors  or  ministers.\" \n\nParallel  with  Pearl  Street  and  next  to  it  runs \nCongress  Street  originally  called  Green  Lane, \nbut  known  as  Atkinson  Street  when  this  sec- \ntion of  the  town  was  residential.  Here,  not \nfar  from  Milk  Street,  was,  says  Holmes,  in  his \nnovel  A  Mortal  Antipathy,  \"a.  large,  square \npainted  brick  house,  in  which  lived  a  leading \nrepresentative  of  old-fashioned  coleopterous \nCalvinism,  and  from  which  emerged  one  of \nthe  liveliest  of  literary  butterflies.     The  father \n\n250 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nwas  editor  of  the  'Boston  Recorder,'  a  very  re- \nspectable but  far  from  amusing  paper,  most \nlargely  patronized  by  that  class  of  the  com- \nmunity which  spoke  habitually  of  the  first  day \nof  the  week  as  '  the  Sabbuth.'  The  son  was \nthe  editor  of  several  different  periodicals  in \nsuccession,  none  of  them  over  severe  or  serious, \nand  of  many  pleasant  books,  filled  with  lively \ndescriptions  of  society,  which  he  studied  on  the \noutside  with  a  quick  eye  for  form  and  colour, \nand  with  a  certain  amount  of  sentiment,  not \nvery  deep  but  real,  though  somewhat  frothed \nover  by  his  worldly  experiences.\"  These  two \nmen  were  Nathaniel  Willis  and  his  more \nwidely  known  son  Nathaniel  P.  Willis,  de- \nscribed by  Holmes  as  something  between  a  re- \nmembrance of  Count  D'Orsay  and  an  anticipa- \ntion of  Oscar  Wilde. \n\nFrom  Cono-ress  Street  continuing  through \nHigh  Street  we  come  next  to  Federal,  of  in- \nterest to  the  fictional  rambler  because  here \nwas  that  old  building  —  a  terra-cotta  manufac- \ntory where  Grant   Herman  (Arlo   Bates's  The \n\n251 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nPagans)  had  his  studio.  \"It  was  a  great  mis- \nshapen place,  narrow,  half  a  hundred  feet  long, \nand  disproportionately  high,  with  undressed \nbrick  walls  and  cement  floor.  The  upper  half \nof  one  of  the  end  walls  was  taken  up  with  large \nwindows,  before  which  were  drawn  dingy  cur- \ntains. Here  and  there  about  the  place  were  scat- \ntered modeling-stands,  water-tanks  mounted \nupon  rude  tripods,  casts,  and  the  usual  lumberof \na  sculptor's  studio ;  while  upon  the  walls  were \nstuck  pictures,  sketches  and  reproductions  in \nall  sorts  of  capricious  groupings.  In  one  cor- \nner a  flight  of  stairs  led  to  a  gallery  high  up \nagainst  the  wall,  over  the  rude  railing  of  which \nlooked  the  heads  of  a  couple  of  legless  statues. \nFrom  this  gallery  the  stairs  continued  to  ascend \nuntil  a  door  near  the  roof  was  reached,  leading \nto  unknown  regions  well  up  in  the  building \nbehind  which  the  studio  had  been  built  as  an \nafterthoueht.  On  shelves  were  confusedlv  dis- \nposed  dusty  bits  of  bronze,  plaster,  coarse  pot- \ntery and  rare  glass  ;  things  valueless  and  things \nbeyond  price  standing  in  careless  fellowship. \n\n252 \n\n\nIN      AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nA  canvas  of  Corot  looked  down  upon  a  gro- \ntesque, grimacing  Japanese  idol,  a  beautiful \nbronze  reproduction  of  a  vase  of  Michael  An- \nofelo  stood  shoulder  to  shoulder  with  a  bean- \npot  full  of  tobacco ;  a  crumpled  cravat  was \nthrown  carelessly  over  the  arm  of  a  dancing \nfaun,  while  a  cluster  of  Barye's  matchless  ani- \nmals were  apparently  making  their  way  with \ngreat  difficulty  through  a  collection  of  pipes, \nbroken  modeling-tools,  faded  .flowers  and. loose \n\npapers Everywhere  ft  was  evident  that  the \n\nstudio  of  Herman  differed  from  heaven  in \nat  least  its  first  law.\" \n\nIn  his  description  of  this  Mr.  Bates  permits \nhimself  one  of  his  rare  drawings  \"from  the \nmodel.\"  The  original,  the  studio  of  Bartlett, \nthe  well-known  sculptor,  was  the  fascinating \nplace  pictured  in  the  novel.  Here,  many  a \nnight  in  conclave  gay  gathered  that  brilliant \ngroup  of  men  typical  of  the  finest  spirit  of  Bo- \nhemianism  as  lived  twenty  years  ago  in  Boston \nby  such  men  as  Bartlett,  Hunt  and  George \nFuller — -friends  and   associates  of  Mr.    Bates \n\n253 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nwhom  it  is  natural  to  suppose  were  more  or  less \nin  his  mind  when  he  created  The  Pagans. \n\nIn  an  old  house  in  Federal  Street  Miss  Lu- \ncretia  and  other  members  of  the  aristocratic \nDaintry  family  (James's  A  New  England  Win- \nter) were  born  in  the  early  part  of  the  last  cen- \ntury. This  locality  in  its  modern  commercial \naspect  is  identified  with  The  Rise  of  Silas \nLapliam,  for  here  was  his  counting-room  and \nthe  warehouses  where  the  redoubtable  Colonel \ncarried  on  his  mineral  paint  business.  \"The \nstreets  were  all  narrow  and  most  of  them \ncrooked  in  that  quarter  of  the  town  ;  but  at  the \nend  of  one  the  spars  of  a  vessel  penciled \nthemselves  delicately  against  the  cool  blue  of \nthe  afternoon  sky.  The  air  was  full  of  a  smell \npleasantly  compounded  of  oakum,  of  leather, \nand  of  oil.  .  .  The  cobblestones  of  the  pave- \nment were  worn  with  the  dint  of  ponderous \nwheels,  and  discoloured  with  iron  rust  from \nthem;  here  and  there,  in  wandering  streaks \nover  its  surface,  was  the  grey  stain  of  the  salt \nwater  with  which  the  street  had  been  sprinkled.\" \n\n254 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nTurning  back  from  Federal  through  High, \nwe  come  into  Summer  Street,  famed  as  the  most \nbeautiful  residential  thoroughfare  of  its  day  in \nBoston.  In  writing  of  this  neighbourhood  in \nHitherto  Mrs.  A.  D.  T.  Whitney  reminds  us \nthat  those  were  the  days  \"  when  the  city  was \nnot  conglomerate  but  individual,  and  there \nwere  houses  of  home  quiet  in  cool,  watered \nstreets  and  unprofaned  '  Places,'  where  vines \ncovered  the  house  fronts  and  cashed  birds  sansf \nin  the  windows,  and  great  crowns  of  forest \ntrees  surged  up  among  the  chimneys.\"  Boston, \nshe  says,  was  in  her  pleasant  young  matronhood \nthen.  Near  Church  Green  at  the  intersection \nof  Bedford  and  Summer  Streets — the  trianQfu- \nlar  piece  of  land,  on  which  then  stood  a  church, \nis  now  solidly  built  over  by  wholesale  stores  — \nlived  the  Holgates  {Hitherto)  with  a  charming \ngarden  at  the  back  of  their  house.  In  much \nof  her  Boston  fiction  Mrs.  Whitney  describes \ncity  life  with  a  rural  flavour. \n\nWashington  Street,  busiest  of  thoroughfares, \ninto  which  Summer  leads,  in  its  shopping  dis- \n\n255 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ntrict  fifty  years  ago  is  referred  to  in  Mrs.  Whit- \nney's Hitherto  as  \"dear  old  mixed-up  Wash- \nington Street,  where  everything  was  small  and \nwedged  together  and  you  knew  your  way  by \nthe  angles  and  corners,  and  nothing  stared  out \nat  you  through  great  plate  glass,  but  you  must \nknow  enough  to  beein  with  to  oro  in  and  en- \nquire.\"  That  priggish  young  hero  of  Mr.  Henry \nJames's  A  New  England  Winter,  Florimond \n(who  owed  his  romantic  name  to  the  fact  that \neveryone  was  reading  ballads  in  Boston  at  the \ntime  he  was  born,  and  his  mother  had  found \nthe  name  in  a  ballad),  in  walking  through \nWashington  Street  observed  that  \"  supreme  in \nthe  thoroughfare  was  the  rigid  groove  of  the \nrailway,  where  were  oblong  receptacles  of  fab- \nulous capacity,  governed  by  familiar  citizens, \njolted  and  jingled  eternally,  close  on  each  oth- \ner's rear,  absorbing  and  emitting  innumerable \nspecimens  of  a  single  type.  The  road  on \neither  side  was  traversed  periodically  by  the \nsisterhood  of  shoppers  laden  with  satchels \nand  parcels  and   protected  by  a  round-backed \n\n256 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\npoliceman.\"  Though  this  was  as  seen  by \nFlorimond  twenty  years  ago,  it  remains  an \nexact  picture  of  the  street  to-day. \n\nMr.  Howells,  in  A  Woman  s  Reason,  makes \na  characteristic  comment  in  writing  of  this \nlocality  when  he  says  :  \"  There  is  doubtless \nmore  shopping  in  New  York  or  London  or \nParis,  but  in  these  cities  it  is  dispersed  over  a \nlarger  area,  and  nowhere  in  the  world  perhaps \nhas  shopping  such  an  intensity  of  physiognomy \nas  in  Boston.  It  is  unsparingly  sincere  in  its \nexpression.  It  means  business,  and  the  sole \nbusiness  of  the  city  seems  to  be  shopping.\" \n\nThis  street  produced  a  most  unpleasant \neffect  upon  the  hero  of  Bellamy's  Looking \nBackward  when  he  awoke  from  his  long  sleep \nto  the  Boston  of  the  nineteenth  century.  \"  I \nreached  Washington  Street  at  the  busiest \npoint,  and  there  I  stood  and  laughed  aloud, \nto  the  scandal  of  the  passers-by.  For  my  life \nI  could  not  have  helped  it,  with  such  a  mad \nhumour  was  I  moved  at  sight  of  the  intermi- \nnable rows   of    stores  on  either  side,  up  and \n\n257 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ndown  the  street  as  far  as  I  could  see — scores  of \nthem,  to  make  the  spectacle  more  utterly  pre- \nposterous—  within  a  stone's  throw  devoted  to \nselling  the  same  sort  of  goods.  Stores  !  stores  ! \nstores  !  miles  of  stores  !  Ten  thousand  stores \nto  distribute  the  goods  needed  by  this  one  city, \nwhich  in  my  dream  had  been  supplied  with  all \nthings  from  a  single  warehouse,  as  they  were \nordered  through  one  great  store  in  every  quar- \nter, where  the  buyer,  without  waste  of  time \nor  labour,  found  under  one  roof  the  world's \nassortment  in  whatever  line  he  desired.\" \n\nLeaving  the  shopping  district  and  proceed- \ning eastward  we  approach,  at  the  corner  of \nWashington  and  Milk  streets,  that  hallowed \nspot  where  stands  the  Old  South  Church,  one \nof  the  oldest  monuments  in  Boston.  So  splen- \ndidly historical  a  thing  was  not  to  be  ignored \nby  the  poet  and  novelist.      Sings  Dr.  Holmes: \n\nFull  sevenscore  years  our  city's  pride  — \n\nThe  comely  southern  spire  — \nHas  cast  its  shadow,  and  defied \n\nThe  storm,  the  foe,  the  fire, \n\n25S \n\n\n\"  Full  sevenscore  years  our  city's  pride- \nThe  comely  southern  spire — \nHas  cast  its  shadow,  and  defied \nThe  storm,  the  foe,  the  fire.\" \n\n— Holmes. \n\n\n259 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nIn  the  eighteenth  century  the  people  of  Lydia \nM.  Child's  Rebels  listened  with  varied  emo- \ntions to  the  deafening  clang  from  the  steeple \nwhich  was  part  of  the  celebration  of  the  repeal \nof  the  Stamp  Act.  And  Cooper's  British \nLionel  Lincoln  on  his  return  to  Boston  had \nhis  first  glimpse  of  the  edifice  - —  known  through- \nout New  England  with  a  species  of  veneration \n—  when  led  there  by  Job  Pray,  who  said: \n\"  This  is  what  you  call  a  church,  though  I  call \nit  a  meetin'  'us.  ...  It's  no  wonder  you  don't \nknow  it,  for  what  the  people  built  for  a  temple \nthe  Kin£  has  turned  into  a  stable.\"  On  enter- \ning,  Cooper  tells  us,  Lionel  was  amazed  to  find \nhe  stood  in  an  area  fitted  for  the  exercise  of \nthe  cavalry.  The  naked  galleries  and  many  of \nthe  original  ornaments  were  standing  ;  but  the \naccommodations  below  were  destroyed,  and  in \ntheir  places  the  floor  had  been  covered  with \nearth  for  the  horses  and  their  riders  to  prac- \ntice in  the  cavesson.  \"  The  abominations  of \nthe  place  even  now  offended  his  senses,  as  he \nstood  on  that  spot  where  he  remembered   so \n\n261 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\noften  to  have  seen  the  grave  and  pious  colo- \nnists assemble  in  crowds  to  worship.\"  This  is \nwhat  is  meant  by  the  last  line  on  the  tablet \nnow  in  front  of  the  church,  which  in  its  en- \ntirety reads : \n\nOld  South. \n\nChurch  gathered  in   1669. \n\nFirst  House  built  in   1670. \n\nThis  House  erected   1729. \n\nDesecrated  by  British  Troops,  1775-6. \n\nChaplain  J.  J.  Kane  chooses  this  old  land- \nmark whereon  to  hang  his  weird  tale,  Ilian;  or \nthe  Curse  of  the  Old  South  Church  of  Boston, \nwhich,  as  he  says,  is  the  story  of  a  great  crime \nand  the  punishment  meted  out  to  the  guilty \n—  in  the  narration  of  which  he  apparently \ndrew  inspiration  from  every  quarter  of  the \nQflobe  and  the  oceans  of  the  world,  which  he \ntakes  pleasure  in  mentioning  at  length  in  his \nintroduction,  written  in  1888  on  board  the  U.  S. \nflagship  Pensacola.  The  porch  of  the  church \nis  the  scene  of  many  secret  meetings  between \n\n262 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nProfessor  Homerand,  of  this  novel,  and  the \nbeautiful  Southern  spy,  Helen  Claymuire,  of \nSouth  Carolina,  frequently  at  an  hour  when \nthe  bell  tolled  midnight.  Here,  frenzied  at \nthe  thought  that  the  Professor  meant  to  marry \nMiss  Rathmire,  the  Southern  woman  called \ndown  the  malediction  of  retributive  divine \njustice  upon  their  union.  It  was  a  terrible \ncurse  —  prophetic  of  accumulated  miseries  — \nand  with  it  she  left  him.  \"  He  looked  up  at  the \nface  of  the  clock  to  find  pity  there,  but  the \nsquare  steeple  only  frowned  down  upon  him, \nas  if  to  corroborate  the  fearful  words  just \nspoken.\" \n\nAll  of  which  did  not  prevent  this  Dr.  Jekyll- \nand-Mr.-Hyde  sort  of  man  from  marrying  Miss \nRathmire  on  the  day  appointed.  \"At  noon \nthe  bell  in  the  steeple  of  the  Old  South  Church \nrang-  out  a  wedding-  refrain,  and  the  edifice  was \npacked  to  overflowing.  After  the  ceremony, \nin  the  porch  of  the  church,  the  bridegroom  was \ndestined  to  encounter  his  former  love  stand- \ning .  .   .  like  a  statue  of  the  goddess  Athena, \n\n263 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ncalm,  dignified  and  haughty,  with  a  look  of \nscorn  that  pierced  to  the  soul  of  the  guilty \nman.\"  How  the  curse  affected  the  life  of  the \nProfessor,  all  who  run  may  read  in  the  pages  of \nIlian.  Emerging  from  the  porch — by  Chap- \nlain Kane  so  darkly  shadowed  —  into  the  sun- \nshine of  the  street,  it  is  charming  to  look  up \nand  imagine  what,  no  doubt,  the  poet  N.  P. \nWillis  saw  : \n\nOn  the  cross-beam  tinder  the  Old  South  bell \nThe  nest  of  a  pigeon  is  builded  well. \n\nIn  Colonial  days  the  Old  South  stood  al- \nmost under  the  windows  of  the  dignified  Prov- \nince House,  the  residence  of  many  of  the \nroyal  governors.  This  ancient  abode  was \nstanding  as  late  as  1864  on  the  site  of  what  is \nnow  Province  Court  and  was  originally  sur- \nrounded by  fine  lawns  and  trees  as  shown  in \nthe  illustration.  Hawthorne,  who  weaves  four \nfanciful  legends  about  it — Howes  Masquerade, \nEdward  Randolph's  Portrait,  Lady  Eleanor  e'  s \nMantle,  and  Old  Esther  Dudley — thus  describes \nit  in  his  day  :     \"  Entering  an  arched  passage, \n\n264 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\n\n\"The  square  front  of  the  Province  House, \nthree  stories  hig-h,  and  surmounted  by  a  cupola, \non  the  top  of  which  a  gilded  Indian  was  dis- \ncernible.\"— Hawthorne  s  \"Legends  of  the  Prov- \nince House.\" \n\n\nwhich  penetrated  through  the  middle  of  a \nbrick  row  of  shops,  a  few  steps  transported  me \nfrom  the  busy  heart  of  modern  Boston  into  a \n\n265 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nsmall  and  secluded  courtyard.  One  side  of  this \nspace  was  occupied  by  the  square  front  of  the \nProvince  House,  three  stories  high,  and  sur- \nmounted by  a  cupola,  on  the  top  of  which  a \ngilded  Indian  was  discernible,  with  his  bow \nbent  and  his  arrow  on  the  string,  as  if  aiming \nat  the  weathercock  on  the  spire  of  the  Old \nSouth.\"  This  Indian  was  carved  by  Deacon \nShem  Drowne,  to  whom,  as  the  hero  of \none  of  Hawthorne's  tales,  allusion  has  been \nmade. \n\nIn  earlier  times  than  this  the  historic  man- \nsion is  to  be  seen  in  festival  attire  if  we  go  with \nCaptain  Somerville,  the  Osbornes  and  Dr. \nWillard  of  The  Rebels,  who,  walking  out  to  wit- \nness the  celebration  of  the  repeal  of  the  stamp \nact,  stop  opposite  the  Province  House  to  ex- \namine the  fanciful  devices  that  had  been  pre- \npared, in  the  eagerness  of  gratitude  and  joy. \nA  full-length  picture  of  Liberty  hurling  a \nbroken  chain  to  the  winds  particularly  at- \ntracted their  attention.  Another  picture  of  this \ninteresting  house  we  have  in  Mr.  Chamber's \n\n266 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nCardigan  when  on  a  rainy  night  \"  the  Gover- \nnor was  giving  a  play  and  a  supper  to  the \nwealthy  Tory  families  of  Boston  and  to  all  the \nofficers  of  the  British  regiments  quartered  in \nthe  city.  .  .  .  The  stony  street  echoed  with  the \nclatter  of  shod  horses,  the  rattle  of  wheels,  the \nshouts  of  footmen,  and  the  bawling  of  chair- \nbearers.  In  the  Province  House  fiddlers  were \nfiddlinor  ,  ,  .  in  the  street  we  could  hear  them \nplainly  and  the  sweet  confusion  of  voices  and  a \nyoung  girl's  laughter.\" \n\nVI.   IN   TREMONT   STREET  AND \nMUSIC    HALL \n\nDIRECTLY  north  of  the  Province \nHouse,  and  like  it  now  demolished, \nstood  in  Tremont  Street,  at  the  cor- \nner of  Beacon,  the  Tremont  House,  where \nThackeray,  Dickens  and  other  foreign  notables \nstayed,  and  which,  Dickens  said,  \"  had  more \ngalleries,  colonnades,  piazzas  and  passages \nthan  he  could  remember  or  the  reader \nwould    believe.\"       He    has    left    us   a   most \n\n267 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\namusing   account  of    the  first  order    he  gave \nat  this  hotel  : \n\n\"  Dinner,  if  you  please,\"  said  I  to  the  waiter. \n\n\"  When  ?  \"  said  the  waiter. \n\n\"  As  quick  as  possible,\"  said  I. \n\n\"  Right  away?  \"  said  the  waiter. \n\nAfter  a  moment's  hesitation  I  answered,  \"  No,\"  at \na  hazard. \n\n\"Not  right  away?\"  cried  the  waiter,  with  an \namount  of  surprise  that  made  me  start. \n\nI  looked  at  him  doubtfully,  and  returned,  \"  No  ;  I \nwould  rather  have  it  in  this  private  room.  I  like  it \nvery  much.\" \n\nAt  this  I  really  thought  the  waiter  must  have  gone \nout  of  his  mind  ;  as  I  believe  he  would  have  done  but \nfor  the  interposition  of  another  man,  who  whispered \nin  his  ear,  \"  Directly.\" \n\nu  Well!  and  that's  a  fact !  \"  said  the  waiter,  look- \ning helplessly  at  me  :  \"  Right  away.\" \n\nI  saw  now  that  \"  Right  away  \"  and  \"  Directly  \" \nwere  one  and  the  same  thing.  So  I  reversed  my \nprevious  answer,  and  sat  down  to  dinner  ten  minutes \nafterward  ;  and  a  capital  dinner  it  was. \n\nJohn  T.  Trowbridge,  in  his  novel  Martin \nMerrivale,  tells  us  that  the  hero  had  an  unsat- \nisfactory meeting  with  his  uncle  at  the  Tre- \nmont   House,  while  it  is  further  invested  with \n\n263 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nliterary  interest  from  the  fact  that  in  one  of \nits  private  rooms  were  held,  in  the  forties,  the \nmeetings  of  \"  The  Jacobins'  Club,\"  humour- \nously so  dubbed  by  the  literary  men  of  which \nit  was  formed — radical  thinkers  and  reform- \ners, all  of  them.  In  literature  these  men,  says \na  recent  writer,  \"  were  essayists,  ready  to  over- \nhaul art,  science,  philosophy  and  theology \nwith  improved  microscopes.\" \n\nThe  side  windows  of  the  Tremont  House \noverlooked  the  Granary  Burying-ground  —  a \nburial-ground,  according  to  a  Western  hu- \nmourist, being  \"  part  and  parcel  of  all  Boston \nhotels.\"  Bynner's  hero,  Sir  Harry  Frankland, \nattended  the  burial  in  the  Granary  ground  of \nMr.  Peter  Faneuil,  and  nearby  is  the  grave  of \nyoung  Benjamin  Woodbridge,  beside  which \nthe  Autocrat  and  the  Schoolmistress  mourned \nso  sentimentally.  \"  The  grey  squirrels,\"  says \nthe  Autocrat,  \"were  looking  out  for  their \nbreakfasts,  and  one  of  them  came  toward  us  in \nthe  light,  soft,  intermittent  leaps,  until  he  was \nclose  to  the  rail  of  the  burial-ground.     He  was \n\n269 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\non  a  grave  with  a  broad  blue  slate  stone  at  its \nhead  and  a  shrub  growing  on  it.      Stop  before \n\n\n\"Stop  before  we  turn  away  and  breathe  a \nwoman's  sigh  over  poor  Benjamin  Woodbridge's \ndust.  Love  killed  him,  I  think.  .  .  .  The \nSchoolmistress  dropped  a  rosebud  she  had  in  her \nhand,  through  the  rails,  upon  the  grave.\"— \n\"  The  Autocrat  of  the  Breakfast  Table.'\" \n\nwe  turn  away  and  breathe  a  woman's  sigh  over \npoor  Benjamin  Woodbridge's  dust.  Love  killed \nhim,  I  think.  .  .  .  The  Schoolmistress  dropped \n\n270 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\na  rosebud  she  had  in  her  hand,  through  the \nrails,  upon  the  grave.\"  In  The  Pagans  of \nArlo  Bates  we  find  Fenton,  from  one  of  the \nwindows  of  his  studio,  admiring  the  tops  of \nthe  trees  of  the  old  Granary  ground  opposite. \nThis  interesting  burying-ground  gets  its  name \nfrom  the  town  granary  which  in  the  early  days \nit  surrounded. \n\nAcross  from  here  a  little  eastward  stands \nTremont  Temple,  to-day  a  new  edifice  in  place \nof  the  one  in  which,  in  TJic  Bostonians,  Henry \nJames  writes:  \"  The  only  thing  that  was  still \nactual  for  Miss  Birdseye  was  the  elevation  of \nthe  species  by  the  reading  of  Emerson  and \nthe  frequentation  of  Tremont  Temple.\"  And \nin  another  part  of  the  novel  he  tells  us  that \nVerena  Tarrant's  mother  had  no  higher  ambi- \ntion for  her  daughter  than  she  should  marry  a \nperson  connected  with  public  life — which \nmeant  for  Mrs.  Tarrant  that  his  name  would \nbe  visible  in  the  lamplight,  on  a  coloured \nposter,  in  the  doorway  of  Tremont  Temple. \n\nTo  the  initiated  the  place  recalls  the  man, \n271 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\na  musical  eccentric,  who  under  a  thin  disguise \nfigures  as  Killings  in  Martin  Mcrrivale.  He \nmade  himself  notorious  in  the  Boston  of  his \nday  by  purchasing  at  auction  in  Tremont \nTemple  the  first  ticket  sold  for  Jenny  Lind's \nconcert,  for  which  he  paid  the  fabulous  price \nof  $625.  This  so  roused  public  curiosity  that \nhis  hitherto  slimly  attended  concerts  were \ncrowded,  and  his  seemingly  reckless  expendi- \nture of  money  proved  the  good  investment  he \nintended.  In  speaking  recently  of  this  man  — \nthe  prototype  of  Killings — Mr.  Trowbridge \nsaid  that  many  Bostonians  would  recall  certain \nposters  which  flooded  such  shop  windows  as \nwould  take  them  during  Jenny  Lind's  stay. \nVery  large  and  highly  coloured  posters  they \nwere,  representing  a  group  of  three  figures  — \nthe  central  one,  Jenny  Lind,  flanked  by  P.  T. \nBarnum,  her  manager,  in  the  act  of  presenting \nto  her  with  a  great  flourish  the  man  to  whom \nher  song  was  \"  beyond  the  dreams  of  ava- \nrice.\" In  Martin  Mcrrivale  Killings  also \nfigured  as  publisher  and  editor  of   the  Liter- \n\n272 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nary  Portfolio,  which  existed  in  fact  as  the \nLiterary  Museum. \n\nNear  Tremont  Temple,  with  entrances  in \nHamilton  place,  School  and  Winter  Streets,  is \nthe  Music  Hall,  recently  descended  to  the \nlevel  of  variety  shows,  but  for  many  years  a \ndistinctive  institution  not  to  be  overlooked  by \nany  novelist  wishing  to  portray  Boston  faith- \nfully. \"  As  all  the  world  knows,\"  says  Henry \nJames,  in  The Bostonians,  \"  the  opportunities  in \nBoston  for  hearing  good  music  are  numerous \nand  excellent,  and  it  had  long  been  Olive's \npractice  to  cultivate  the  best.  She  went  in,  as \nthe  phrase  is,  for  the  superior  programmes,  and \nin  the  high,  dim,  dignified  Music  Hall  which \nhas  echoed  in  its  time  so  much  eloquence  and \nso  much  melody,  and  of  which  the  very  propor- \ntions and  colour  seem  to  teach  respect  and  at- \ntention, shed  the  protection  of  its  illuminated \ncornice  upon  no  faces  more  intelligently  up- \nturned than  those  of  Olive  and  Verena.\" \n\nThis  was  the  hall  daringly  engaged  for \nVerena's  debut,  by  Olive,  who  felt  it  was  the \n\n273 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nonly  temple  in  which  the  votaries  of  their  creed \ncould  worship.  Brainy  little  Dr.  Prance  de- \nscribed the  place  as  pretty  big,  but  not  so \nbig  as  Olive  Chancellor's  ideas  —  ideas  for \nthe  emancipation  of  her  sex,  destined  to  be \nruthlessly  crushed  by  the  masculinity  of  the \ndetermined  Basil  Ransom.  Who  does  not \nremember  how,  suddenly  coming  to  Boston  for \nVerena,  her  found  her  appearance  in  Music \nHall  immensely  advertised.  \"  As  he  gazed \ndown  the  vista,  the  approach  for  pedestrians \nwhich  leads  out  of  Winter  Street,  he  thought \nit  looked  expectant  and  ominous.\"  And  that \nnight  we  know  the  impatient  audience  called \nin  vain  for  Verena,  who  never  made  the  great \nspeech  which  was  to  liberate  her  sex  from  bon- \ndage, but  was  literally  snatched  bodily  from \nthe  anteroom  by  her  masterful  lover,  who  dra- \nmatically whirled  her  off  to  live  for  him  in- \nstead of  for  the  \"  cause.\" \n\nIt  was  during  a  Symphony  concert  in  Music \nHall  that  Truth  Dexter  in  the  novel  of  that \nname,  inwardly  tortured  by  the  thought  that \n\n274 \n\n\n275 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nher  husband  did  not  love  her,  was  taken  ill  and \nrushed  precipitately  from  the  building.  To \nthese  Saturday  evening  concerts  accompanied, \nafter  he  went  blind,  by  the  ever  devoted  Kate, \ncame  Dan  Howard,  whom  Miss  Frothingham \nmakes  appeal  so  tremendously  to  our  sympa- \nthies in  The  Turn  of  the  Road.  As  Mrs. \nStaggchase's  guest  (Arlo  Bates's  The  Philis- \ntines) Miss  Marrivale  is  taken  to  the  concerts \n\"  where  a  handful  of  people  gathered  to  hear \nthe  music,  and  all  the  rest  of  the  world  crowded \nfor  the  sake  of  having  been  there.\" \n\nThese  concerts  are  always  preceded  by  a  pub- \nlic rehearsal  on  Friday  afternoons,  which,  in \nHer  Boston  Experiences,  Margaret  Allison  as- \nsures us  no  one  enjoys,  in  the  ordinary  accep- \ntation of  that  term,  but  every  one  respects, \nexalts,  bends  the  knee,  imbibes  —  yea,  even \nunto  the  state  of  worship  known  at  Beyreuth. \nAnother  novelist,  Eliza  Orne  White,  in  her \nclever  portrayal  of  a  typical  young  woman  of \nthe  Hub,  unhesitatingly  declares  that  Mary \n(Miss  Brooks)  went  to  the   rehearsals   from  a \n\n277 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nsense  of  duty  mingled  with  a  desire  to  see  her \nfriends.  John  Graham,  whom  she  dragged \nalong,  owned  frankly  to  himself  that  he  went \nto  see  Mary.  It  was  only  Janet,  of  the  Brooks \nfamily^  who  really  loved  the  music  which  \"  ex- \nalted her,  and  made  her  feel  there  was  no \nheroic  deed  she  could  not  do.\"  Though  the  af- \nfair was  called  a  lecture,  in  accordance  with  the \ntime-honoured  custom  of  Boston,  Crawford \nwould  have  us  understand  it  was  a  political \nspeech  his  hero,  An  American  Politician,  made \nthere.  In  his  audience  was  a  little  colony  of \nBeacon  Street.  \"  It  is  not  often  that  Beacon \nStreet  goes  to  such  lectures,  but  John  was  one \nof  themselves.\" \n\nIn  Tremont  Street,  only  a  few  steps  away \nfrom  old  Music  Hall  (the  new  one,  called  Sym- \nphony Hall,  is  out  in  Huntington  Avenue),  is \nthe  Studio  Building,  once  the  working  place \nexclusively  of  artists,  but  now  encroached  upon \nby  business  in  one  form  or  another.  Two  of \nArlo  Bates's  Pagans,  Arthur  Fenton  and  Tom \nBently,  had  studios  there,  where  in  reality  oc- \n\n278 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\ncurred,  recently  said  Mr.  Bates  in  discussing \nthis  novel,  far  more  brilliant  and  original  talk \namong  the  actual  Pagans  than  is  the  imaginary \nconversation  he  makes  for  them.  Bently's \nstudio,  says  the  novelist,  was  the  envy  of  all \nhis  brother  artists  with  its  \"  stuffs  from  Algiers, \nrugs  from  Persia  and  Turkey  ;  weapons  from \nTripoli  and  India  and  Tunis  ;  musical  instru- \nments from  Egypt  and  Spain ;  antiques  from \nGreece  and  Germany  and  Italy;  and  pottery \nfrom  everywhere.\"  Differing,  but  equally \nluxurious  was  Fenton's,  where  much  that  was \ndramatic  in  the  book  occurs. \n\n\n279 \n\n\nABOUT  BOSTON \n\n\nI.  CAMBRIDGE  AND  LEXINGTON \n\nSURROUNDING  the  Three-hilled  City \nare  what  may  some  time  become  part \nof  it,  but  now,  and  even  more  years \nago,  were  communities  having  an  independent \nexistence,  yet  closely  united  to  the  metropolis. \nDorchester  Heights,  historic  as  the  command- \ning eminence  on  which  the  Americans  erected \ntheir  batteries  to  drive  the  British  fleet  from \nthe  harbour,  has  become  in  these  later  days \nSouth  Boston  ;  the  pudding-stone  region  of \nRoxbury  and  the  ancient  Charlestown  have \njoined  as  a  part  of  the  greater  city,  while \nCambridge  —  \"old  Cambridge,\"  as  its  many \nlovers  fondly  call  it  —  remains  an  independent \ncommunity. \n\nOur    grandfathers    tell    us   that  before    the \n\n\n2S3 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ndays  of  the  railroads  when  communication  was \nover  the  highways,  the  teamsters  hauling \nfreight  to  and  from  Boston  were  wont  to \nspend  the  night  at  Cambridge  or  Roxbury \nbefore  and  after  leaving  the  city,  thereby  en- \nabling them  to  appear  in  town  in  the  very \nearly  morn  as  well  as  to  make  a  fresh  start  at \ndawn  well  away  from  the  cobble-stone  pave- \nment of  the  centre  of  business.  Consequently \nat  the  \"  Neck  \"  which  connected  Boston  with \nRoxbury,  at  the  west  end  of  Cambridge  bridge, \nand  at  a  point  on  the  Mill  Dam  where  it  inter- \nsected with  a  road  to  Brookline,  there  devel- \noped such  clusters  of  buildings  as  might  be \nthe  natural  growth  of  business  from  such  a \nsource.  Small  taverns  surrounded  by  piazzas  ; \nhup-e  barns  and  stables  which  rambled  off \ninto  a  wilderness  of  open  sheds  ;  blacksmith's \nshops  with  open  doors,  smoking  forges,  ring- \ning anvils  and  stamping  horses  ;  wheelwrights, \nharness  makers,  coopers  and  cobblers  carrying \non  their  trades  in  the  humble  frame  buildings \nwhich  were  the  homes  of  these  artizans.      Of \n\n284 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nsuch  primitive  little  centres  of  business  there \nare  few  traces  to-day,  but  from  them  grew \nthe  closely  built  streets  of  Cambridge-port \nand  the  busy  traffic  of  the  extreme  South \nEnd. \n\nThe  old  Cambridge  of  colonial  days  forms \nthe  setting  for  Bynner's  Penelopes  Suitors. \nPenelope  Pelham,  who  existed  in  fact  as  well \nas  in  fiction,  was  a  charming  young  woman \nwho  came  from  the  old  England  to  the  New \nin  1638  and  married,  under  rather  unusual  cir- \ncumstances, Governor  Bellingham.  The  nov- \nelist, in  journalistic  form,  has  her  tell  us  that \non  landing  she  went  \"straightway  to  brother \nWilliam's  plantation  at  Cambridge,  which  is \nthree  miles  and  over  from  the  town  of  Boston. \nHe  hath  a  large  plantation  and  a  fine  house, \nwith  a  troop  of  people,  amongst  which  are  sev- \neral blackamoors.\"  In  the  beautiful  garden  of \nthis  estate  the  Governor  declared  his  love  to \nPenelope,  whose  fiance,  Buckley,  made  a  dra- \nmatic scene  by  appearing  at  an  inopportune \nmoment.      Penelope  was  married  to  Governor \n\n2S5 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nRichard  Bellingham  in  1641  and  survived  him \nmany  years,  dying  in  Boston  in  1 702. \n\nAnother  of  Bynner's  heroines,  Agnes  Surri- \nage.  frequently  went  with  Sir  Harry  Frank- \nland  to  Cambridge,  and  is  quite  as  much  iden- \ntified with  Hobgoblin  Hall,  not  far  away  — \nthe  finest  estate  of  its  time  in  New  England. \nThe  grand  old  mansion,  confiscated  at  the \ntime  of  the  Revolution,  is  still  standing  and \nwell  worth  a  trip  to  Medford  to  see.  Agnes \nand  the  Collector,  the  novelist  tells  us,  went \nthere  many  a  time  to  wait  upon  Mistress \nPenelope  Royall. \n\nFictional  interest  in  Cambridge  centres  in \nand  about  Harvard  Square,  with  a  ramble \nwestward  as  far  as  Mount  Auburn.  Of  the \nUniversity  peopled  with  fictitious  students \nwhose  haunts  we  wish  to  discover,  much  will \nbe  told  in  the  following  chapter.  For  the \nmoment  the  town  itself  as  the  novelists  have \ndepicted  it,  occupies  us. \n\n\"Cambridge,\"  says  Mr.  Pier  in  The  Peda- \ngogues, \"  is  romantic  in  much   the  same  way  as \n\n\n<-Z      U \n\n\n5-d \n\n\n2?7 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nRome  is  modern.  One  never  really  thinks \nof  it  being  so,  and  yet  it  is.  Rome  is  over- \nshadowed by  its  past :  Cambridge  is  made  op- \npressively real  by  the  proximity  of  Boston. \nCambridge  is,  after  all,  not  a  city  :  it  is  a  soul.\" \n\nThe  charming  atmosphere  of  the  old  univer- \nsity town  was  strongly  felt  by  Mrs.  Harrison \nGray  Otis,  who  remarks  in  The  Barclays  of \nBoston,  that  the  Gordons,  fresh  from  the \nsplendour  and  magnificence  of  foreign  courts, \npreferred  the  quiet  simplicity  of  a  Cambridge \nlife  to  the  more  pretentious  one  of  a  city. \n\"  There  is  an  equality  and  evenness  in  the \ncondition  of  all  the  society  connected  with  the \nUniversity  which  completely  extinguishes  all \nstriving  for  what  is  perpetually  in  the  mouths \nof  our  people.\" \n\nIn  his  Suburban  Sketches  Mr.  Howells  gives \nmany  a  delightful  glimpse  of  rural  Cambridge \nas  he  found  it  when  he  went  there  to  live.  \"  It \nwas  very  quiet,\"  he  tells  us.  \"  We  called  one \nanother  to  the  window  if  a  large  dog  went  by \nour  door  ;  and  whole  days  passed  without  the \n\n289 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nmovement  of  any  wheels  but  the  butcher's  upon \nour  street,  which  flourished  in  flag  weed  and \nbuttercups  and  daisies  and  in  the  autumn \nlike  the  borders  of  nearly  all  the  streets  in \nCharlesbridge,  with  the  pallid  azure  flame  of \nthe  succory.\"  He  dwells,  too,  on  the  climate,  so  , \ndisagreeable  in  the  winter,  so  lovely  in  the \nspring.  \"  Then,  indeed,  Charlesbridge  ap- \npeared to  us  a  kind  of  Paradise.  The  wind \nblew  all  day  from  the  southwest  and  all  day  in \nthe  grove  across  the  way  the  orioles  sang  to \ntheir  nestlings.\"  The  beauty  and  witchery  of \nthe  Cambridge  spring  is  a  theme  on  which  all \nthe  novelists  writing  of  this  locality  wax  elo- \nquent. \n\nLeading  into  Harvard  Square  is  the  avenue \nnow  called  Massachusetts,  the  Cambridge \nresidential  part  of  which  Henry  James  de- \nscribes in  The  Bostonians  as  a  street  \"  fringed \non  either  side  with  villas  offering  themselves \ntrustfully  to  the  public.  .  .  The  detached \nhouses  had,  on  top,  little  cupolas  and  belve- \nderes, in  front  pillared  piazzas — on  either  side \n\n290 \n\n\nIS \n\n\ng  ^ \n\n\nO    *,    p \n\n\ns,. \n\n\n291 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\na  bow  window  or  two,  and  everywhere  an  em- \nbellishment of  scallops,  brackets,  cornices  and \nwooden  flourishes.  They  stood  for  the  most \npart  on  small  eminences  lifted  above  the  im- \npertinence of  hedge  or  paling,  well  up  before \nthe  world  with  all  the  good  conscience  which  in \nmany  cases  came  from  a  silvered  number  af- \nfixed to  the  Mass  above  the  door.\" \n\nOff  this  avenue  was  the  temporary  lair  of \nDr.  Tarrent  {The  Bosfouians),  \"a  wooden  cot- \ntage, with  a  rough  front  yard,  a  little  naked \npiazza  facing  upon  an  unpaved  road,  in  which \nthe  footway  was  overlaid  with  a  strip  of  planks. \nThese  planks  were  embedded  in  ice  or  liquid \nthaw,  according  to  the  momentary  mood  of  the \nweather,  and  the  advancing  pedestrian  trav- \nersed them  in  the  attitude,  and  with  a  good \ndeal  of  the  suspense  of  a  rope  dancer.\"  In \nMonadnoc  Place  a  sightless,  soundless,  inter- \nspaced embryonic  region  was  the  dismal  resi- \ndence of  the  mesmeric  healer. \n\nJust  beyond  the  college  yard,  northwestward \nin  Garden  Street,  stands  the  historic  old  Christ \n\n293 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nChurch,  the  graveyard  of  which  is  of  fictional \ninterest  as  being  the  spot  where  Ralph \n(Cooper's  Lionel  Lincoln)  under  exciting  and \ngruesome  conditions,  told  Lionel  the  strange \nstory  of  his  parentage.  \"  Thou  hast  reached \nthe  spot,\"  dramatically  announced  the  old  man, \n\"  where  moulder  the  bones  of  one  who  long \nsupported  thee.  Unthinking  boy,  that  sacri- \nlegious foot  treads  on  thy  mother's  grave.\" \nThe  rambler  will  look  in  vain  for  this  fictitious \ngrave,  but  there  are  many  actual  ones  of  inter- \nest, notably  that  of  Madame  Vassall  who \nwas  one  of  the  family  whom  Agnes  and \nthe  Collector  {Agnes  Surriage)  visited  at \nHobgoblin  Hall.  She  lived  in  the  man- \nsion now  known  as  the  Longfellow  House, \nand  the  poet  pays  his  tribute  to  the  great \nlady : \n\n///  the  village  churchyard  she  lies. \nDust  in  her  beautiful  eyes  ; \n\nNo  more  she  breathes,  nor  feels,  nor  stirs  ; \nAt  her  feet  and  at  her  head \nLies  a  slave  to  attend  the  dead. \n\nBut  their  dust  is  as  white  as  hers. \n294 \n\n\n295 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nNearby,  on  what  is  now  a  part  of  the  grounds \nof  the  Law  School  building,  stood  (until  1884) \nthe  '  gambrel-roofed  house\"  which  was  the \nbirthplace  of  the  Autocrat,  and  in  Revolution- \nary days  the  headquarters  of  General  Artemus \nWard  —  where  many  stirring  military  incidents \noccurred.  Lovingly  and  lengthily  the  Auto- \ncrat writes  of  this  house  in  A  Mortal  Antip- \nathy while  everyone  is  familiar  with  his  de- \nscription of  it  in  his  poem  Parson  TurrelFs \nLegacy. \n\nKnow  old  Cambridge  ?    Hope  you  do  — \nBorn  there t   Don't  say  so.'  I  was  too. \n(Born  in  a  house  with  a  ganibrel-roof, — \nStanding  still,  if  you  must  have  proof. — \n\"  Cambrel  ? —  Cambrel?  \" —  Let  me  beg \nYou'll  look  at  a  horse's  hinder  leg, — \nFirst  great  angle  above  the  hoof,— \nThat's  the gambrel ;  hence  gainbrel-roof.) \n\nOne  of  his  most  famous  poems,  \"  Old  Iron- \nsides,\" was  written  here. \n\nAcross  the  way  in  Garden  Street  is  the  his- \ntoric old  Washington  elm  gazed  upon  with \nawe  by  Mr.  Pier's  pedagogues,  and  immortal- \n\n297 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\n'\"  Eighty  years  have  passed,  and  more \nSince  under  the  brave  old  tree \nOur  fathers  gathered  in  arms  and  swore \nThey  would  follow  the  sign  their  banners  bore, \nAnd  fight  till  the  land  was  free.\" \n\n— Holmes's  \"Under  the  Washington  Elm.\" \n\n\nized — like  so  much  cist;  of  the  old  town  which \nhe  loved  —  by  the  Autocrat. \n\n298 \n\n\n<u  \"3   .- \n\nX     U     -~ ' \n\nu  J,  h \n—  •\"  c \n4-1  i:  3 \n.5  o.o \n\n\nS-as \n\n\n■ft \n\n\nii  -. \n\n\nODD \n\nc  c  ,c \nOOH \n\n\n299 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nIn  this  locality  lived  one  summer  two  of \nThe  Pedagogues ',  Jessie  and  Gorch,  in  a  square \nbrown  house  in  which  they  had  taken  rooms. \nA  vine-screened  porch  extending  across  the \nfront  of  the  house  became  the  sta^e  on  which \nmuch  of  this  serio-comic  story  was  played. \nThe  Pedagogues  in  their  hours  of  recreation \nmade  frequent  excursions  to  hallowed  scenes. \nWe  find  them  plucking  sprigs  from  Longfel- \nlow's hedsfe  in  front  of  the  beautiful  old  man- \nsion  and  lingering  in  the  park  across  the  way \n—  the  field,  now  called  Longfellow's  garden,  a \nmemorial  to  the  poet  who  during  his  lifetime \nkept  it  open  that  he  might  have  an  unobscured \nview  of  the  landscape  and  the  Charles  River, \nwhich  he  loved  and  which  winds  in  and  out  of \nso  much  of  his  verse. \n\nThou  hast  taught  me.  Silent  River, \n\nMany  a  lesson  deep  and  long  ; \nThou  hast  been  a  generous  giver  ; \n\nI  can  give  thee  but  a  song. \n\nBeyond  Longfellow's,  in  the  same  street,  is \nthe  Brattle  house,  for  a  time  the  home  of  Mar- \n\n301 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ngaret  Fuller,  while  here  roomed  the  historian \nand  novelist  Motley  during  his  Harvard \nyears. \n\nThe  Pedagogues  also  made  pilgrimages  to \nElmwood,  where,  we  are  told,  they  derived  a \ncertain  satisfaction  from  peering  through  the \nfence  at  Lowell's  house.  From  here  they \nfound  it  but  a  short  distance  to  Mount  Auburn \nfor  a  spear  of  grass  from  Longfellow's  grave. \nMr.  Sanderson  {The  Barclays  of  Boston)  was \nburied  in  Mount  Auburn,  where  he  reposed, \nthe  novelist  says,  in  a  lowly  tomb  amid  bloom- \ning flowers  and  cypress  trees.  In  Mr.  Bell- \namy's Looking  Backward  we  have  a  picture  of \nthis  beautiful  cemetery  on  Decoration  Day \nwhen  Julian  West  and  the  Bartletts  went  out \nthere  from  Boston  to  \"  do  honour  to  the  mem- \nory of  the  soldiers  of  the  North  who  took  part \nin  the  war  for  the  preservation  of  the  Union  of \nthe  States.  The  survivors  of  the  war,  escorted \nby  military  and  civic  processions  and  bands  of \nmusic,  were  wont  on  this  occasion  to  visit  the \ncemeteries   and    lay  wreaths  of    flowers   upon \n\n302 \n\n\n■303 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nthe  graves  of  their  dead  comrades,  the  cere- \nmony being  a  very  solemn  and  touching  one.\" \nThe  beautiful  avenue  called  Massachusetts \nwhich  leads  out  from  Cambridge  through  Ar- \nlington to  Concord  is  richly  historic  and  of  in- \nterest to  the  fictional  rambler,  because  over  it \nmarched  Lincoln,  Polworth  and  other  of  the  red- \ncoats on  that  memorable  night  when,  far  ahead \nof  them,  Paul  Revere  was  spreading  the  alarm \n\nThrough  every  Middlesex  village  and  farm \nFor  the  country-folk  to  be  up  and  to  arm. \n\n****** \n\nthrough  the  gloom  and  the  light, \nThe  fate  of  a  nation  was  riding  that  night. \n\nSuch  a  scene  appealed  strongly  to  the  im- \nagination of  Hawthorne,  who,  in  Sept  i  in  us \nFclton,  tells  us  that  \"  There  were  stories  of \nmarching  troops  coming  like  dreams  through \nthe  midnight.  Around  the  little  rude  meeting- \nhouses there  was  here  and  there  the  beat  of  a \ndrum  and  the  assemblage  of  farmers  with \ntheir  weapons.  So  all  that  night  there  was \nmarching,    there     was     mustering,    there    was \n\n3\"5 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ntrouble ;  and,  on  the  road  from  Boston,  a \nsteady  march  of  soldiers'  feet  onward,  onward \ninto  the  land  whose  last  warlike  disturbance \nhad  been  when  the  red  Indians  trod  it.\" \n\nOn  the  westward  road  along  which  the  red- \ncoats marched  is  an  old  tavern  known  then \nand  now  as  the  Monroe  Tavern  —  the  head- \nquarters of  Lord  Percy. \n\nHot  Percy  goad  /lis  slow  artillery \nUp  the  Concord  road, \n\nsings  Lowell.  This  tavern  is  described  by  Mr. \nHowells  in  his  volume  called  Three  Villages. \n\nOn  Lexington  Common,  which  is  said  to  be \nas  high  as  the  top  of  Hunker  Hill,  Pitcairn's \ntroop  encountered  the  minute-men,  and  Lionel \nLincoln,  with  beating  heart,  heard  shouted  by \nhis  major  : \n\n\"Disperse,  ye  rebels,  disperse.  Throw  down  your \narms  and  disperse  !  \" \n\nThese  memorable  words  were  instantly  followed \nby  the  reports  of  pistols  and  the  fatal  mandate  of \n\"Fire '.\"when  a  loud  shout  arose  from  the  whole \nbody  of  soldiery,  who  rushed  upon  the  open  green \nand  threw  in  a  close  discharge  on  all  before  them. \n\n306 \n\n\n•507 \n\n\n3o8 \n\n\nIN      AND      ABOUT       BOSTON \n\n\"Great  God!\"  exclaimed  Lionel,  \"what  is  it  ye \ndo?  Ye  fire  at  unoffending  men  !  Is  there  no  law \nbut  force  ?  Beat  up  their  pieces,  Polworth ;  stop \ntheir  fire.\" \n\n\"  Halt  !  \"  cried  Polworth,  brandishing  his  sword \nfiercely  among  his  men.  \"  Come  to  an  order,  or  I'll \nfell  ye  to  the  earth  !  \" \n\nBut  the  excitement  which  had  been  gathering  to  a \nhead  for  so  many  hours,  and  the  animosity  which \nhad  so  long  been  growing  between  the  troops  and \nthe  people,  were  not  to  be  repressed  at  a  word.  It \nwas  only  when  Pitcairn  himself  rode  in  among  the \nsoldiers,  and,  aided  by  his  officers,  beat  down  their \narms,  that  the  uproar  was  gradually  quelled,  and \nsomething  like  order  was  again  restored.  Before \nthis  was  effected,  however,  a  few  scattering  shots \nwere  thrown  back  from  their  flying  adversaries, \nthough  without  material  injury  to  the  British. \n\nWhen  the  firing  had  ceased,  officers  and  men  stood \ngazing  at  one  another  for  a  few  moments,  as  if  even \nthey  could  foresee  some  of  the  mighty  events  which \nwere  to  follow  the  deeds  of  that  hour.  The  smoke \nslowly  arose,  like  a  lifted  veil,  from  the  green,  and, \nmingling  with  the  fogs  of  morning,  drove  heavily \nacross  the  country,  as  if  to  communicate  the  fatal  in- \ntelligence that  the  final  appeal  to  arms  had  been \nmade.  Every  eye  was  bent  inquiringly  on  the  fatal \ngreen,  and  Lionel  beheld,  with  a  feeling  allied  to \nanguish,  a  few  men  at  a  distance  writhing  and  strug- \n\n309 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       R  A  M  BLES \n\ngling  in  their  wounds,  while  some  five  or  six  bodies \nlay  stretched  upon  the  grass  in  the  appalling  quiet  of \ndeath.    Sickening  at  the  sight  he  turned  and  walked \n\n\nLEXINGTON    COMMON \n\n\"  When  the  firing  had  ceased,  officers  and  men  stood  gazing  at  one \nanother  as  if  even  they  could  foresee  some  of  the  mighty  events  which \nwere  to  follow  the  deeds  of  that  hour.\" — Cooper's  \"Lionel  Lincoln.\" \n\naway  by  himself,  while  the  remainder  of  the  troops, \nalarmed  by  the  reports  of  the  arms,  were  eagerly \npressing  up  from  the  rear  to  join  their  comrades. \n\n310 \n\n\nTHE   LKXINGTON    MINUTE   MAN \n\n\n311 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nA  granite  stone  marks  this  spot  to-day,  and \nnearby  is  Kitson's  spirited  statue  of  Captain \nJohn  Parker,  the  Minute-man  who  said  : \n\"  Stand  your  ground.  Don't  fire  unless \nforced  upon.  But  if  they  mean  to  have  a  war, \nlet  it  begin  here.\" \n\nMr.  Howells  writes  sympathetically  of  Lex- \nington village  —  a  little  too  far  from  Boston \nto  be  strictly  suburban  in  aspect  —  where,  he \nsays,  the  local  feeling  is  larger  than  the  place. \n\"As  Dr.  Holmes  has  remarked  (Howells's \nThree  Villages),  American  cities  and  villages \nlike  to  think  of  themselves  as  the  '  good  old ' \nthis  and  that  ;  but  at  Lexington,  more  than \nanywhere  else  out  of  Italy,  I  felt  that  the \nvillage  was  to  its  people  the patrza.\" \n\nII.   HARVARD \n\nWHEN   we  consider  the    University's \nplace  in  published  fiction,  how  small \nwhatever  we  may  discern  is  in  com- \nparison  with    the   vast  jungle   of    romance   it \nmight   furnish,  if  its  yearly  inpouring   of  our \n\n313 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES     . \n\nyouth  could  tell  us  of  their  hearts'  desires  and \ntheir  rainbow  castles ! \n\nOf  Harvard  in  its  infancy  we  learn  some- \nthing from  Penelope  Pelham  (Bynner's  Penel- \nope s  Suitors  ),  who,  seeing  it  in  1638,  made \nnote  of  it  in  her  journal  to  this  effect :  \"  They \nhave  here  set  up  a  small  school,  which  the)- \ncall  a  college,  and  have  made  Herbert  treas- \nurer thereof.\"  About  fifty  years  later  Carew \nand  Courtney  (Stimson's  King  Noanett),  jour- \nneying by  canoe  from  Boston  to  Springfield, \nstopped  at  Cambridge  to  buy  powder  and  then \nvisited  the  college.  \"  There  was  but  one \nbuilding;  and  on  entering  it  we  found  no  pro- \nfessors, but  some  eight  or  ten  young  fellows, \nand  these  were  all  the  students  ;  and  they \nwere  sitting  around  smoking  tobacco,  with  the \nsmoke  of  which  the  room  was  so  full  that  you \ncould  hardly  see  ;  and  the  whole  house  smelt \nso  strong  of  it  that  when  I  was  going  up-stairs \nI  said,  '  This  is  certainly  a  tavern.'  They  could \nhardly  speak  a  word  of  Latin.  They  took  us \nto  the  library,  where  then-  was  nothing  in  par- \n\n3'4 \n\n\n-IN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nticular.  .  .  .  Then  they  accompanied  us  down \nto  the  river  to  hail  us  off.\" \n\nIu  one  of  his  novels  (A  Mortal  Antipathy) \nHolmes  comments  on  the  great  strides  the \nUniversity  took  about  the  middle  of  the  last \ncentury.  \"  During  all  my  early  years,\"  he  says, \n\"our  old  Harvard  Alma  Mater  sat  still  and \nlifeless  as  the  colossi  in  the  Egyptian  desert. \nThen  all  at  once,  like  the  statue  in  Don  Gio- \nvanni, she  moved  from  her  pedestal.  The  fall \nof  that  '  stony  foot '  has  effected  a  miracle  like \nthe  harp  that  Orpheus  played,  like  the  teeth \nwhich  Cadmus  sowed.  The  plain  where  the \nmoose  and  the  bear  were  wandering  while \nShakespeare  was  writing  Hamlet,  where  a  few \nplain  dormitories  and  other  needed  buildings \nwere  scattered  about  in  my  schoolboy  days, \ngroans  under  the  weight  of  the  massive  edi- \nfices  which  have  sprung  up  all  around  them.\" \n\nMany  of  the  Boston  novels  touch  upon \nHarvard  life,  notably  Mr.  Howells's  April \nHopes,  Henry  James's  The  Bostonians  and \nMr.    Pier's    The    Sentimentalists;     while    the \n\n3' 5 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nhero  of  Mr.  Wheelwright's  A  Child  of  the \nCentury  wrought  for  many  years  to  obtain \ntwo  pieces  of  parchment,  which  entitled  him  to \nwrite  after  his  name,  \"  Harvard,  A.B.,  LL.B.\" \nBut  for  fiction  dealing  more  exclusively  with \nthe  students  we  must  turn  to  the  pages  of \nFair  Harvard,  Hammersmith,  Guerndale, \nand  more  recently  The  Prelude  and  the  Play, \nHarvard  Stories,  Harvard  Episodes,  The \nDiary  of  a  Freshman,  The  Pedagogues,  and \nthose  two  capital  short  stories,  The  Colligo \nClub  Theatricals,  Warren's  The  Girl  and  the \nGovernor  and  Owen  Wister's  Philosophy \nFour.  Rollds  Journey  to  Cambridge,  an \namusing  satire  on  the  Rollo  Books,  should  not \nbe  omitted  from  the  list. \n\nFair  Harvard,  published  anonymously,  is \nconsidered  a  faithful  picture  of  life  at  the  Uni- \nversity in  the  fifties  and  had  a  great  vogue. \nSo,  too,  had  Hammersmith  and  Guerndale, \nwhich  cover  a  somewhat  later  period.  All \nthree  of  these  novels  are  read  with  interest  to- \nday.       The   modern  Harvard  man  (Flandrau \n\n316 \n\n\nut     -I \n\n\nz \n\n<   s \n\n\nf  4»i'i \n\ni~    ^ \n\nEfl      C \n\nb  ^ \n\na.  <: \n\np  5 \n\nc  ^ \n\na!    «j \n\ntj  ^ \n\n<D  cs \n\nH \n\n\ns \n\n\n317 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nsays  there  is  no  such  thing  as  the  \"  typical \nHarvard  man\")  in  various  phases  we  find \ncleverly  portrayed  by  Charles  Macomb  Flan- \ndrau  in  Harvard  Episodes  and  The  Diary  of \na  Freshman;  similar  \"  undergrads\"  make  up \nMr.  Post's  Harvard  Stories. \n\nWhen  \"  Uncle  George\"  [Rolld  s  Journey  to \nCambridge)  took  Rollo  to  the  University  he \ntold  him  that  one  of  the  Greatest  benefits  of  a \ncourse  at  Harvard  \"  was  that  derived  from \nviewing  the  noble  architectural  specimens  all \naround  him.\"  And  though  it  was  not  intended \nUncle  George  should  be  taken  seriously,  he \nundoubtedly  was  genuine  in  his  admiration  of \nbuildings  which  are  famous,  and  about  which \nthe  novelists  write  with  enthusiasm. \n\nThe  rambler  who  would  seek  out  the  haunts \nof  fictional  students  would,  naturally  enough, \nupon  arriving  at  Harvard  Square  turn  toward \nthe  Yard  as  the  beginning  of  his  tour  of  inves- \ntigation. Passing  through  one  of  the  beauti- \nful memorial  gates  now  in  process  of  construc- \ntion, it  is  interesting  to  recall   that  at  the  time \n\n319 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nof  which  Henry  James  wrote  in  The  Bostoni- \nans  the  Yard  was  enclosed  by  means  of  a  low \nrustic  fence,  \"  for  Harvard,\"  he  says,  \"  knows \nnothing  either  of  the  jealousy  or  the  dignity \nof  high  walls  and  guarded  gateways.\"  This \nnovelist  then  pictures  the  enclosure  in  the  fol- \nlowing manner  :  \"  The  Yard  or  college  precinct \nis  traversed  by  a  number  of  straight  little \npaths  over  which,  at  certain  hours  of  the  day \na  thousand  undergraduates  with  books  under \ntheir  arms  and  youth  in  their  step,  flit  from \none  school  to  the  other.  The  rectangular \nstructures  of  old  red  brick  wore  an  expression \nof  scholastic  quietude,  and  exhaled  a  tradition, \nan  antiquity.\" \n\nAn  atmosphere  distinctly  Cantabrigian  we \nfind  in  the  opening  chapters  of  a  recent  novel, \nThe  Prelude  and  the  Play.  The  signature, \nRufus  Mann,  is  supposed  to  be  the  pseudonym \nof  Mrs.  Shaler,  who,  as  the  wife  of  Professor \nShaler,  is  well  qualified  to  know  whereof  she \nwrites.  She  has  slightly  disguised  her  locality \nby  calling  the;  town   Canterbury,   and  man)'  of \n\n320 \n\n\n321 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nher  characters  are  said  to  be  drawn  from  per- \nsons well  known  in  the  University  life.  But \nthis  is  so  commonly  said  by  the  public  that \nauthors  have  ceased  to  be  disturbed  by  it. \n\nSome  of  the  people  in  The  Prelude  and  the \nPlay  lived,  we  imagine,  in  Ouincy  Street  about \nwhere  Professor  Shaler's  house  stands,  for  the \nview  the  author  describes  is  as  seen  from  his \nwindows.  From  the  library  Alexandra,  the \nheroine,  \"looked  out  upon  the  college  yard, \nwhich,  with  its  spires,  domes,  towers  and  dor- \nmitories, in  the  gray,  light,  soft,  enshrouding \nsnow,  seemed  to  her  partial  fancy  to  wear  a \nlook  of  stately  conventual  repose.  And  then, \nthe  bell  ceasing  to  clan^,  from  out  the  lecture \nrooms  crowds  of  men  poured  forth.  These, \nfalling  more  or  less  into  professional  ranks, \nclad  in  long  ulsters  caused  her  to  think  of \nbands  of  Benedictine  monks  ;  only  the  frozen \nlandscape  forbade  thethought  of  cheering  vine- \nyards such  as  tradition  affixes  in  sunnier  lands \nto  the  monasteries  of  the  accomplished  order.\" \n\nAll  the;  buildings  connected  with  the  Uni- \n323 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nversity  were  shown  to  Ransom  by  Verena \n(  The  Bostonians)  when  he  went  out  to  Cam- \nbridge to  see  her.  He  was  greatly  impressed \nby  the  Library,  \"a  diminished  copy  of  the \nchapel  of  King's  College  at  the  greater  Cam- \nbridge.\" This  is  the  library  to  which  Felton \n(Hawthorne's  Septimus  Felton)  came  from \nConcord  in  search  of  scientific  books  relating \nto  his  studies.  Herrick,  in  his  story  The  Man \nWho  Wins  also  alludes  to  it  in  speaking  of \none  of  his  hero's  ancestors.  \"  The  pastor's \neloquence  waxed  into  books  that  are  found  to- \nday on  the  shelves  of  the  Harvard  library, \nwith  the  University  book-plate  recording  their \ngift  by  the  author.\" \n\nSome  of  the  fictitious  students  are  given \nrooms  in  the  Yard,  while  as  many  others  are \nnot.  Flandrau's  men  are  not  often  found \nliving  there.  George  Talcott,  the  hero  of \nThe  Prelude  and  the  Play,  roomed  in  the  Yard, \nbut  the  author  does  not  tell  us  where  ;  Jack \nRandolph  {Harvard  Stories)  roomed  in \nThayer  ;  his  windows,  we  are  told,  commanded \n\n324 \n\n\ns \n\n\nH     .5 \n\n\n•a  3 \n\n\n325 \n\n\nIN       AND       A  B  O  U  T       B  O  S    TON \n\nthe  approaches  to  Appleton  Chapel,  about \nwhich  cluster  many  college  traditions,  in  and \nout  of  fiction. \n\nSome  Hammersmith  fellows,  Ayres  and  Van \nCourtland,  of  Fair  Harvard,  and  the  hero  of \nApril  Hopes  lived  in  Holworthy  —  \"that  old \nhall  that  keeps  its  favour  with  the  students  in \nspite  of  the  rivalry  of  the  newer  dormitories.\" \nHere  Mr.  Howells  shows  us  the  interior  of  a \nstudent's  room  :  \"  the  deep  window  nooks  and \neasy  chairs  upholstered  in  the  leather  that \nseems  sacred  alike  to  the  seats  and  the  shelves \nof  libraries  ;  the  aesthetic  bookcases,  low  and \ntopped  with  bric-a-brac  ;  the  etchings  and \nprints  on  the  walls  ;  the  foils  crossed  over  the \nchimney,  and  the  mantel  with  its  pipes, \nand  its  photographs  of  theatrical  celebrities \ntilted  about  over  it  —  spoke  of  conditions \nforeign  to  Mrs.  Pasmer's  memories  of  Har- \nvard.\" \n\nConspicuous  in  Hammersmith  is  Harvard \nHall,  \"  with  its  portraits  of  placid  benefactors \nof  the  University    smiling  down  upon  many  a \n\n327 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nlad  floundering  in  an  ebbing  flood  of  classics, \nand  consuming  his  pencil  in  despair.\" \n\nBeside  Harvard  is  Massachusetts,  also  a  re- \ncitation hall,  which,  like  Sever,  is  identified \nwith  the  scenes  of  Mr.  Pier's  inimitable  novel \nThe  Pedagogues,  wherein  he  presents  a  young \ninstructor  wrestling  with  the  raw  (and  exas- \nperating) material  of  a  class  in  English  compo- \nsition and  literature  in  the  summer  school.  In \nand  about  these  halls  the  rambler  will  find  their \nprototypes  any  midsummer  day.  From  the \nSouth  and  West  come  most  of  these  actual \nstudents  —  gray-haired  women,  many  of  them, \nwho  expect  their  instructors  —  to  quote  Mr. \nPier,  \"  in  six  short  weeks  to  purge  them  of \nprovinciality,  to  give  them  a  catholic  appre- \nciation of  literature,  to  instruct  them  in  new \nmethods  of  teaching,  and  to  teach  them  to \nwrite  —  to  write  —  to  write.  .  .  '  My  object  in \ncoming  here  '  \"  (said  a  fictitious  one,  and  it  is \nthe  sentiment  of  most  of  the  actual  students) \n\"  '  is  to  learn  to  be  a  writer  of  fiction,  preferably \nstrong  and  passionate.      I  am  familiar  with  the \n\n32s \n\n\nS      - \n\n\ns \n\n\n3  I \n\n\n329 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOS   I    O  N \n\nworks  of  Shakespeare,  Byron,  Ouida  and  E. \nI'.  Roc.  I  know  no  other  language  than  my \nown.' \" \n\nIt  has  been  conjectured  that  the  experiences \nof  the  most  satirical  of  instructors,  Alfred \nHonore  Palantine,  were  those  of  his  creator, \nMr.  Pier.  This,  however,  is  not  the  case,  as \nMr.  Pier,  though  a  Harvard  man,  never  taught \nthere. \n\nBetween  Massachusetts  and  Harvard  Halls \nis  the  Tree  so  prominent  in  all  the  Class-day \nfestivities,  and  to  which  full  justice  has  been \ndone  by  all  the  hedonists  who  find  this  fete \nday  an  inspiring  theme.  \"  What  short  descrip- \ntion can  do  justice  to  it !\"  exclaims  the  author \nof  Hammersmith,  and  Mr.  Howells,  in  a  suc- \ncession of  charming  photographs,  devotes  to  it \nthe  first  seven  chapters  of  April  Hopes*  One \nof  Mr.  Flandrau's  characters,  Beverly  Beverly \n(A  Class  Day  Idyl ),  has  a  class-day  unique, \nwe  imagine,  in  college  annals. \n\nIn  continuing  through  the  Yard  on  our  way \nto  Memorial  Hall,  we  pass  the  College  Pump, \n\n331 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\"  in  warm  weather,\"  says  a  recent  writer,  \"one \nof  the  hardest-worked  of  all  the  college  belong- \nings.\" It  is  affectionately  alluded  to  by  the \nnovelists,  and  we  half  expect  to  find  Hammer- \nsmith's face  under  its  mouth,  \"where  he  had \ncooled  his  lips  so  many  times,  rushing  in  from \ncricket,  or  football,  or  rapid  constitutional,  just \nin  time  for  recitation.\" \n\nPassing  out  through  the  Yard  to  Cambridge \nStreet  we  come  to  Memorial  Hall,  elaborately \ndescribed  and  scenically  used  in  all  the  stories \npertaining  to  Harvard  life.  In  writing  of  the \nimpression  that  this  building  made  on  his  Mis- \nsissippian  hero  of  The  Boston ia us,  Henry  James \nsays  :  4i  The  Hall  was  buttressed,  cloistered, \nturreted,  dedicated,  superscribed,  as  he  had \nnever  seen  anything ;  though  it  didn't  look \nold,  it  looked  significant ;  it  covered  a  larofe \narea,  and  it  sprang  majestic  into  the  winter  air. \nIt  was  detached  from  the  rest  of  the  collegiate \ngroup,  and  stood  in  a  grassy  triangle  of  its \nown.\" \n\nHere,  in  Sander's  Theatre,  fictional  heroes \n332 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\ndeliver  their  orations  and  receive  their  degrees, \nwhile  Memorial  itself  on  Class-day  becomes \nthe  scene  of  gay  festivities  in  the  way  of \nspreads  and  dances.  This  Hall  was  erected  in \nmemory  of  the  sons  of  Harvard  who  died \nduring-  the  civil  war.  In  Hammersmith  we \nare  given  pictures  of  those  stirring  times  when \nthe  students  went  off  to  the  front  amid  the \ncheers  and  blessing's  of  their  classmates.  At \nthe  end  of  this  novel  the  author,  writing  in \n1877,  says:  \"Yonder  Memorial  Hall  has  writ- \nten the  names  of  some  on  its  immortal  tablets, \nwhere  the  thronging  youth  of  to-day,  who  come \nup  annually  to  the  old  university,  may  read \nthe  bright  record  and  the  brightening  names. \nThe  lives  of  these  will  not  have  been  in  vain \nif  they  shall  teach  their  successors  in  the \nhappy  college  walks  and  ways,  consecrated \nby  their  heroic  feet,  that  courage,  high  dar- \ning, devoted  sacrifice  of  self,  are  not  alone \nto  be  admired  among  the  ancient  Greeks  and \nRomans.\" \n\nHow  some  of  these  ''  successors  \"  of   Ham- \n333 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nmersmith  and  his  friends  feel  about  the  beau- \ntiful Hall  is  suggested  with  exquisite  feeling \nby  Mr.  Flandrau  in  his  story  Wellington. \nHaydock,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  taking \nhis  mother  into   Memorial. \n\nThe  beautiful  transept  was  dark  at  first,  after  the \nsunlight  outside.  Then  it  lifted  straight  and  high \nfrom  the  cool  dusk  into  the  quiet  light  of  the \nstained  windows.  Except  for  the  faint  echo  of \ntheir  footsteps  along  the  marble  floor,  the  two \nmoved  from  tablet  to  tablet  in  silence.  Somewhere \nnear  the  south  door  they  stopped,  and  Phillip  said, \nsimply : \n\n\"  This  one  is  Shaw's.\" \n\nWhen  they  passed  on  and  out,  and  sat  in  the  shade \non  the  steps,  Haydock's  mother  wiped  her  eyes. \nThe  long,  silent  roll-call  always  made  her  do  that. \n\n\"  It  was  a  great,  great  price  to  pay,\"  she  said  at \nlast. \n\n\"  I  never  knew  how  great,\"  said  Phillip,  \"  until  I \ncame  here  one  day  and  tried  to  live  it  all  over,  as  if \nit  were  happening  now.  Before  then  the  war  seemed \nfine,  and  historic,  and  all  that,  but  ever  so  far  away. \nIt's  been  real  since  then.  I  thought  of  how  all  the \nlittle  groups  of  fellows  would  talk  about  it  in  the \nYard  between  lectures,  and  read  the  morning  papers \nwhile  the  lectures  were  going  on  ;  and  how  the  in- \nstructors would  hate  to  have  to  tell   them   not  to. \n\n334 \n\n\n335 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nAnd  I  thought  what  it  would  be  like  to  have \nthe  men  I  know  .  .  .  getting  restless  and  excited,  and \nsitting  up  all  night  at  the  club,  and  then  throwing \ndown  their  books  and  marching  away  to  the  front  to \nbe  shot ;  and  how  I  would  have  to  go  along,  too,  be- \ncause—  well,  you  couldn't  stay  at  home  while  they \nwere  being  shot  every  day  and  thrown  into  trenches. \nI  don't  think  you  ever  realize  it  very  much  until  you \nthink  about  it  that  way.  .  .  .  But  it  isn't  as  though \nyou  felt  it  were  all  a  hideous  waste.  It  did  some- \nthing great ;  it's  doing  something  now.  It  can  never \nstop,  for  every  year  the  new  ones  come  —  the  ones \nwho  don't  know  yet.\" \n\nStrolling-  from  Memorial  clown  Kirtland  we \ncome  to  Divinity  Avenue,  at  the  end  of  which \nis  Divinity  Hall,  where  Saulsbury  and  Hamil- \nton {Fair  Harvard)  lived,  \"in  secure  retreat \nfrom  the  world,  devoting  themselves  to  study  in \nmonastic  seclusion.  .  .  .  Divinity  Hall  was  built \nat  a  time  when  funereal  gloom  was  deemed \nessential  for  the  perfect  development  of  the \nChristian  character.\"  Verena  Tarrent  {The \nBostonians)  knew  young  men  who  were  study- \ning for  the  Unitarian  ministry  in  that  \"queer \nlittle  barrack  at  the  end  of   Divinity  Avenue.' \n\n337 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nFrom  here  we  retrace  our  steps  across  the \nYard  to  the  Square  and  thence  down  Lin- \nden Street  to  the  corner  of  Mount  Auburn, \nwhere  we  find  Claverly,  in  which  lived  Sears \nWalcott  2nd,  Haydock,  Fields,  Hewitt  and \nother  of  the  men  of  Mr.  Flandrau's  Harvard \nEpisodes.  Many  events  —  comedy  and  tragedy \nintermingled  —  occurred  in  Claverly,  among \nthese  men  who  are  clever  pen  portraits  of  the \nHarvard  men  of  to-day.  This  fictionist  deals \nfrankly  with  the  varying  aspects  of  Harvard \nlife  about  which,  as  presented  by  him,  the  un- \ninitiated will  learn  much,  particularly  from  the \ndiscussion  which  takes  place  in  that  story \ncalled  The  Chance. \n\nAround  the  corner  from  Claverly  in  Holyoke \nStreet  is  the  Hasty  Pudding  Club  House,  the \nscene  of  one  of  Mr.  Post's  Harvard  stories  — \nIn  the  Early  Sixties.  At  this  club  house \nBeverly  Beverly  (Flandrau's  The  Class  Day \nIdyl)  spent  a  wretched  quarter  of  an  hour  en- \ndeavouring to  escape  from  his  ridiculous  en- \ntanglement with  that  clinging  tormentor,  \"  the \n\n338 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nMillstone.\"  Hammersmith  and  Goldie  were \nPudding  men  in  the  days  when  the  club  rooms \nwere  in  Stoughton  Hall,  up  the  stairway  of \nwhich  \"legions  of  trembling  neophytes  have \nclimbed  before  and  since.\" \n\nIII.  WESTWARD \n\nFROM  Beacon  Street  in  Boston,  extend- \ning westward,  some  fifteen  years  or  more \naQfo,  was  a  famous  road  called  the  Mill- \ndam  (now  the  Beacon  Street  Boulevard), \nwhere  lovers  of  horseflesh  were  wont  to  display \nthe  points  of  their  favourites  and  fast  trotting \nwas  the  order  of  the  day.  During  the  winter, \nin  the  sleighing  season,  it  became  what  Bartley \nHubbard  (Howells's  The  Rise  of  Silas  Lap- \nham)  called  a  carnival  of  fashion  and  gaiety \non  the  Brighton  road  to  make  a  part  of  which \nwas  one  of  the  keenest  enjoyments  of  Colonel \nLapham.  Not  that  the  \"carnival  of  fashion\" \nappealed  to  him,  but  the  excitement  of  speed- \ning his  mare  was  a  sensation  of  which  he  never \nwearied. \n\n339 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nThe  Milldamof  those  days  is  thus  pictured  for \nus  by  the  novelist :  \"The  beautiful  landscape \nwidened  to  right  and  left  of  them,  with  the  sun- \nset redder  and  redder,  over  the  low  irregular \nhills  before  them.  They  crossed  the  Milldam \ninto  Longwood  ;  and  here,  from  the  crest  of \nthe  first  upland,  stretched  two  endless  lines,  in \nwhich  thousands  of  cutters  came  and  went. \nSome  of  the  drivers  were  already  speeding \ntheir  horses,  and  these  shot  to  and  fro  on  inner \nlines,  between  the  slowly  moving  vehicles  on \neither  side  of  the  road.  .  .  But  most  of  the \npeople  in  those  elegant  sleighs  and  cutters  had \nso  little  the  air  of  the  great  world  that  one \nknowing  it  at  all  must  have  wondered  where \nthey  and  their  money  came  from  ;  and  the \ngaiety  of  the  men,  at  least,  was  expressed,  like \nthat  of  Colonel  Lapham,  in  a  grim,  almost \nfierce  alertness;  the  women  wore  an  air  of  cou- \nrageous apprehension.  At  a  certain  point  the \nColonel  said,  '  I'm  going  to  let  her  out,  Pert,' \nand  he  lifted  and  then  dropped  the  reins  lightly \non  the  mare's  back.     She  understood  the  signal \n\n34\" \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nand,  as  an  admirer  said,  'she  laid  down  to  her \nwork.'  Nothing  in  the  immutable  iron  of  Lap- \nham's  face  betrayed  his  sense  of  triumph  as  the \nmare  left  everything  behind  her  on  the  road. \nMrs.  Lapham,  if  she  felt  fear,  was  too  busy \nholding  her  flying  wraps  about  her,  and  shield- \nher  face  from  the  scud  of  ice  flung  from  the \nmare's  heels  to  betray  it ;  except  for  the  rush \nof  her  feet,  the  mare  was  as  silent  as  the  peo- \nple behind  her ;  the  muscles  of  her  back  and \nthighs  worked  more  and  more  swiftly,  like  some \nmechanism  responding  to  an  alien  force,  and \nshe  shot  to  the  end  of  the  course,  grazing  a \nhundred  encountered  and  rival  sledges  in  her \npassage,  but  unmolested  by  the  policemen, \nwho  probably  saw  that  the  mare  and  the  Colo- \nnel knew  what  they  were  about,  and,  at  any \nrate,  were  not  the  sort  of  men  to  interfere  with \ntrotting1  like  that.  At  the  end  of  the  heat \nLapham  drew  her  in,  and  turned  off  on  a  side \nstreet  into  Brookline.\" \n\nThe  Colonel  was  then  in  the  vicinity  of  the \npresent  Country  Club,  built  since  his  day   in \n\n341 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nBrookline,  and  the  scene  of  much  of  Arlo \nBates's  Love  in  a  Chad.  Here  the  inconse- \nquential Jack  Neligage —  one  of  the  few  men  in \nBoston,  the  novelist  says,  entirely  free  from  any \n\n\nCOUNTRY    CLUB,   BROOKLINE \n\n\"  Before  the  front  of  the  house  was  a  sloping  lawn  which  merged \ninto  an  open  park,  here  and  there  dotted  with  groups  of  budding \ntrees.\" — Arlo  Bates 's  ltLove  in  a  Cloud.\" \n\n\nweakness  in  the  way  of  occupation  beyond  that \nof  pleasure-seeking — played  polo,  a  game  in \nwhich  he  excelled.  All  the  characters  in  this \nnovel  were  polo  enthusiasts  or  pretended  to  be! \nand  the  Country  Club,  dubbed  by  Mr.  Bates \n\"  County    Club,\"    during    the  weeks    of  early \n\n342 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nspring  was  a  popular  rendezvous.  \"  The  exhil- \naration of  the  spring  clay,  the  pleasure  of  tak- \ning up  once  more  the  outdoor  life  of  the  warm \nseason,  the  little  excitement  which  belongs  to \nthe  assemblage  of  merry-makers,  the  chatter, \nthe  laughter,  all  the  gay  bustle  combined  to  fill \nthe  County  Club  with  a  joyous  atmosphere.\" \nBrookline,  the  most  aristocratic  and  by  many \nregarded  as  the  most  beautiful  of  the  environs \nof  Boston,  was  the  home  of  that  mysterious \nand  unique  individual  Mr.  Austin  May  (Stim- \nson's  Residuary  Legatee),  who,  driving  to  his \nhouse  on  his  arrival  from  Europe,  noted  that \n\"the  road  was  walled  in  and  roofed  over  by  a \ndense  canopy  of  foliage  borne  by  arching \nAmerican  elms  ;  and  through  its  green  walls, \ndense  as  a  lane  in  Jersey,  only  momentary \nglimpses  were  to  be  had  of  shaven  lawns  and \nquiet  country  houses.  When  they  came  to  a \ngate,  with  high  stone  posts,  topped  by  an \nancient  pair  of  cannon  balls,  the  carryall  turned \nin.  A  moment  after  they  had  passed  the \nscreen  of  border  foliage,  May  found  himself  in \n\n343 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nthe  midst  of  a  wide  lawn,  open  to  the  sunlight, \nbut  rimmed  upon  all  points  of  the  compass  by \na  distant  hedge  of  trees.  .  .  In  the  centre  of \nthis  stood  an  elderly  brick  house,  its  southern \nwall  quite  green  with  ivy.  In  front  of  it  was  a \nlarge  pavilion  low  and  stone  built,  rising  with- \nout apparent  purpose  from  the  side  of  an  ar- \ntificial pool  of  water,  rimmed  with  rich  bands \nof  lilies.\"  How  Austin  May  and  May  Austin \ncame  to  dwell  together  in  the  old  ivy-covered \nhouse,  must  be  left  to  the  novelist  to  tell.  Un- \nfortunately in  the  book  he  does  not  aid  us \nby  mention  of  exact  locality  to  identify  the \nhouse,  yet  he  assures  us  that  if  we  drive  by \nthere,  some  summer  afternoon,  we  will  \"  note \nabout  the  windows  those  frilled  and  pleated \nthings  that  denote  the  presence  of  a  woman's \nhand.\" \n\nOut  through  these  country  roads  tramped \nDan,  led  by  Walter  (Miss  Frothingham's  The \nTurn  of  the  Road)  on  that  hideous  night  when \nhe  went  blind.  \"He  was  maddened  with \nphysical    pain   that  did   not   subside    with    the \n\n344 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nloss  of  sight,  and  after  the  long  strain  of \nsleepless  nights  and  mental  anguish  his  nerves \nhad  given  way.       He  lurched   heavily  in  walk- \n\n\nTHE    UPPER    CHARLES    RIVER  — \n\n\"where  the  reflections  of  its  wooded  banks \nand  circuitous  loveliness  remind  one  of  the \nThames  above  Richmond.\" — Margaret  All- \ns ton's  \"Jfer  Boston  Experiences.\" \n\ninof,  and  blamed  Walter  for  letting  hjm  stum- \nble,  and  there  were  terrible  times  when  he \nfought  for  the  light  with  his  hands,  as  a  drown- \ning man  fights  for  air.  At  those  moments \nWalter  held  him  with  all  his  strength  and  with \n\n345 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\na  prayer  on  his  lip.  The  night  seemed  an \naeon  of  chaotic  and  hideous  darkness.  It  was \nnot  till  the  East  grew  pale  that  Dan  allowed \nhimself  to  be  forced  upon  a  bench,  and,  leaning \nhis  head  against  a  tree  behind  him,  fell  into \nthe  unconsciousness  of  utter  exhaustion.\" \n\nBeyond  the  scene  of  this  tragedy  lie  the \nNewtons  (called  the  Garden  City)  where  the \nbeautiful  Charles  and  a  large  canoe  club  fur- \nnish boating  for  hundreds  of  pleasure-seekers. \nThere  Margaret  Alston  {Her  Boston  Experi- \nences) canoed  on  the  upper  Charles,  \"where \nthe  reflections  of  its  wooded  banks  and  cir- \ncuitous loveliness  remind  one  of  the  Thames \nabove  Richmond.\" \n\nIV.    TOWARD  THE   BLUE   HILLS \n\nHAVING   raced  over  the  Milldam  with \nSilas  Lapham,  an  exhilarating  sleigh- \nride  in  another  direction  is  open  to \nthose  who  will   drive  with  Craighead  and  his \nwife  (  Truth  Dexter)  \"  through  Boston's  circle \nof  clinging  parks,  Jamaica  Plain,  Dedham  and \n\n346 \n\n\nI  N       AND       ABOUT       B  O  S  T  O  N \n\nMilton,  embracing  the  lofty  ledges  of  the  Blue \nHills  and  the  heights  of  Dorchester,  where \nWashington  had  erected  his  decisive  batteries. \n.  .  .  Truth  felt  new  life  tingle  in  her  veins  as \nshe  and  her  husband  sped  along  the  shining, \nslippery  roads,  the  black  span  under  Van's \nmasterly  control  gradually  passing  every  rival \nequipage,  and  the  keen  sleigh  rails  throwing \nshowers  of  hardened  snow  into  the  air  at \nevery  turn  or  swerve.\" \n\nThe  heights  of  Dorchester  which  thev \npassed  homeward  bound  are  identified  with \nCooper's  Lionel  Lincoln,  who,  with  Cecil, \naided  by  Ralph,  escaped  from  here  to  Boston \nunder  the  fire  of  Washington's  batteries. \n\"  Ralph  led  his  companions  by  a  long  and \ncircuitous  path  to  the  shores  of  the  bay.  Here \nthey  found,  hid  in  the  rushes  of  a  shallow  inlet, \na  small  boat  that  Lionel  recognized  as  the  lit- \ntle vessel  in  which  job  Pray  was  wont  to  pur- \nsue his  usual  avocation  of  a  fisherman.  Enter- \ning it  without  delay,  he  seized  the  oars,  and \naided  by  a  flowing  tide,  he  industriously  urged \n\n347 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nit  towards  the  distant  spires  of  Boston.  The \nparting  shades  of  the  night  were  yet  struggling \nwith  the  advance  of  day,  when  a  powerful  flash \nof  light  illuminated  the  hazy  horizon,  and  the \nroar  of  cannon,  which  had  ceased  toward \nmorning\",  was  heard  again.  But  this  time  the \nsound  came  from  the  water,  and  a  cloud  arose \nabove  the  smoking  harbour,  announcing  that \nthe  ships  were  again  enlisted  in  the  contest. \nThis  sudden  cannonade  induced  Lionel  to  steer \nhis  boat  between  the  islands  ;  for  the  castle  and \nsouthern  batteries  of  the  town  were  all  soon \nunited  in  pouring  out  their  vengeance  on  the \nlabourers,  who  still  occupied  the  heights  of \nDorchester.  .  .  In  short,  while  he  laboured  at \nthe  oars,  Lionel  witnessed  the  opening  scene  of \nBreed's  acted  anew,  as  battery  after  battery, \nand  ship  after  ship,  brought  their  guns  to  bear \non  their  hardy  countrymen,  who  had  once \nmore  hastened  a  crisis  by  their  daring  enter- \nprise.\" \n\nDorchester  is  commonly  known  as  the  pud- \nding-stone district  because  of  the  vast  amount \n\n34s \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nof  loose  boulder  cast  about.  The  legends  of \nthe  pudding-stone  are  legion.  The  Autocrat \ngives  one,  and  his  version  of  it  in  a  poem \ncalled  \"The  Dorchester  Giant\"  in  which  his \ninimitable  humour  has  full  sway.  He  says  that \na  ofiant  of  old  grave  to  his  wife  and  children  a \npudding  stuffed  with  plums  which  in  their \nrage  they  flung  over  all  the  country  round \nabout : \n\nGiant  and  mammoth  have  passed  away. \n\nFor  ages  have  floated  by  ; \nThe  suet  is  hard  as  a  marrow-bone, \nAnd  every  plum  is  turned  to  a  stone, \n\nBut  there  the  puddings  lie. \n\nAnd  if  some  pleasant  afternoon, \n\nYou'll  ash  me  out  to  ride. \nThe  whole  of  the  story  I  will  tell. \nAnd  you  shall  see  where  the  puddings  fell \nAnd  pay  for  the  pun  eh  beside. \n\nIn  Roxbury,  which  adjoins  Dorchester, \nis  standing  in  Eustis  Street  what  remains \nof  the  stately  old  mansion  which,  nearly  a \ncentury  and  a  half  ago,  was  the  abode  of \nGovernor     Shirley,     one     of    the     most     dis- \n\n349 \n\n\nF  I  C  T  I  O  N  A  L       R  A  M  BLES \n\ntinguished  ot  the  royal  governors.  Then  it \nstood  remote  from  the  highway  with  a  com- \nmanding view  of  the  sea,  the  distant  town  and \nsurrounding  country,  perched  upon  its  granite \nfoundation,  and  approached  by  an  impossible \nflight  of  granite  steps.  Here  many  of  the \nscenes  of  the  earlier  chapters  of  Bynner's \nAgnes  Surriage  transpire.  Mrs.  Shirley,  a \nmost  gracious  woman,  interested  herself  in \nFrankland's  protegee  from  the  beginning  and \ngave  her  at  once  the  inestimable  advantage  of \nher  patronage.  After  the  \"  bare-legged  dis- \nhevelled little  hussev \"  had  taken  on  some \npolish  we  have  in  the  novel  a  charming  account \nof  a  musical  party  here  when  Agnes  was  per- \nsuaded to  sing  several  ballads  to  her  own  ac- \ncompaniment on  the  harpsichord.  \"  Even  Mrs. \nShirley  and  the  Collector,  who  were  aware  of \nher  vocal  powers,  were  astonished  at  the  per- \nformance ;  while  as  for  Captain  Frankland, \nwho  shared  his  brother's  musical  taste,  it \nwas  noted  that  for  the  rest  of  the  evening \nhe    did    not    quit    the    singer's    side,    and    on \n\n350 \n\n\nen \n\nV)    ^ \n\no \n\nO^O \n\n(4 \n\na  , \n\na \n\n> \n\n<L)    ^ \nc    b0 \n\no \n\no \n\no^ \n\nw \n\nOJ  * \n\n- \n\n4=    <-> \n\nc-1 \n\n\"  %. \n\n—    -- \n\nn  5 \n\n<u    ~ \n\n>  ^ \n\n•C«q \n\n\"   1 \n\nb£-' \n\nC    ,• \n\n.2    fe \n\n-^ \n\nu  2 \n\nu  G \n\n£  ■* \n\nrt    m \n\n&j  5 \n\n•E-g \n\n35i \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nbreaking  up  was  a  long  time  in  making  his \nadieux.\" \n\nThough  Kingshaven  in  Eliza  Orne  White's \nMiss  Brooks,  is  not  intended  to  be  Roxbury, \nyet  here  is  the  beautiful  old-fashioned  garden \ndescribed  as  the  Brookses  where  the  family \nspent  so  much  time,  Janet  particularly.  And \nthere,  one  beautiful  moonlight  night,  Graham \nfound  her  sobbing  her  heart  out.  \"  The  o^ai-den \nhad  an  aspect  of  romance  and  mystery  in  this \nhalf  light  in  striking  contrast  to  its  appearance \nunder  a  midday  sun.  The  carnations  and  the \nlate  roses  were  etherealized,  and  a  tall  bush \nwith  a  feathery  white  flower  made  a  delicate \nfrost-work  with  its  graceful  branches.  There \nwas  a  touch  of  fog  in  the  air  which  brought \nout  a  mixture  of  sweet  odours.\" \n\nBeyond  Roxbury  is  Jamaica  Plain,  where \nMrs.  Sam  Wyndham  (Crawford's  American \nPolitician)  gave  her  skating  party  on  Jamaica \nPond.  \"  The  water  was  covered  with  a  broad \nsheet  of  ice  that  would  bear  any  weight.  .  .  . \nTwo  and  two,  in  a  certain   grace  of  order,  the \n\n353 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nlittle  party  came  out  from  the  shore  into  the \nmoonlight.  A  very  pretty  sight  is  a  moonlight \nskating  party,  and  Vancouver  knew  what  he \nwas  saying  when  he  hinted  at  the  mysterious \nand  romantic  influences  that  are  likely  to  be \n\n\nH»       MA' \n\n\nsprrr \n\n\n<»*  ♦ \n\n\nJAMAICA    POND \n\n\" — the  water  was  covered  with   a  broad   sheet   of  ice  that  would \nbear  any  weight.\" — Crawford* s  \"An  American  Politician.\" \n\nabroad  on  such  occasions.\"  Mr.  Crawford \ncomments  on  the  fact  that  skating  was  not  at \nthat  time  fashionable  in  Boston,  so  that  the \nWyndham  party  had  the  pond  practically  to \nthemselves.  This  would  not  be  their  expe- \nrience to-day,  when  all  during  the  skating  sea- \nson it  is  crowded  to  its  utmost  capacity,  day \nand  evening. \n\n\n354 \n\n\n°q \n\n\nH \n\n\n355 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nKeeping  on  toward  the  Blue  Hills  we  come \nto  Wallaston,  a  part  of  Quincyand  of  fictional \ninterest  because  here  is  Mount  Wallaston,  the \nscene  of  the  revels  of  Hawthorne's  Maypole \nof  Merrymount  and  of  Motley's  Merry  mount, \nthe  latter  story  being  one  of  the  two  novels \nwritten  by  the  historian. \n\nAbout  1628  one  Captain  Wallaston  had \nplanted  himself  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the \nhill,  which  still  perpetuates  his  name.  Thomas \nMorton,  the  wily,  overthrew  him  and  made \nhimself  Lord  of  Merry-Mount,  as  he  named \nthe  place.  Says  the  novelist :  \"  The  crepuscu- \nlar period  which  immediately  preceded  the  rise \nof  the  Massachusetts  Colony  possesses  more \nof  the  elements  of  romance  than  any  sub- \nsequent epoch.  After  the  arrival  of  Winthrop \nwith  the  charter,  the  history  of  the  province  is \nas  clear  as  daylight,  but  during  the  few  previ- \nous years  there  are  several  characters  flitting \nlike  phantoms  through  the  chronicles  of  the \ntime  the  singularity  of  whose  appearance \ngives  them  a  certain  romantic  interest.\"     Such \n\n357 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\na  character  is  Motley's  hero,  Morton,  the  Lord \nof  Misrule  and  Sachem  of  Merrymount,  who  is \nalso  the  hero  of  Hawthorne's  story,  The  May- \npole of  Merry   Mount. \n\nIn  this  tale,  written  before  Motley's  novel, \nbut  which,  the  novelist  -  historian  tells  us,  he \ntook  pains  never  to  read,  Hawthorne  has \npainted  for  us  fantastic  facts  without  need  to \ndraw  upon  his  wealth  of  imagery.  The  masques, \nmummeries  and  festive  customs  which  made \nthe  revels  of  the  nuptials  of  the  Lord  and \nLady  of  the  May  as  he  describes  them,  were \nin  accordance  with  the  manners  of  the  aofe. \n\"All  the  hereditary  pastimes  of  old  England \nwere  transplanted  hither,\"  he  tells  us.  \"  The \nKing  of  Christmas  was  duly  crowned,  and  the \nLord  of  Misrule  bore  potent  sway.  On  the \neve  of  St.  John  they  felled  whole  acres  of  the \nforest  to  make  bonfires,  and  danced  by  the \nblaze  all  night,  crowned  with  garlands  and \nthrowing  flowers  into  the  flame.  At  harvest- \ntime,  though  their  crop  was  of  the  smallest, \nthey    made    an    image    with    the    sheaves    of \n\n353 \n\n\n35<; \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nIndian  corn  and  wreathed  it  with  autumnal \ngarlands,  and  bore  it  home  triumphantly. \nBut  what  chiefly  characterized  the  colonists  of \nMerry  Mount  was  their  veneration  for  the \nMaypole.  It  has  made  their  true  history  a \npoet's  tale.  Spring  decked  the  hallowed  em- \nblem with  young  blossoms  and  fresh  green \nboughs;  summer  brought  roses  of  the  deepest \nblush,  and  the  perfected  foliage  of  the  forest  ; \nautumn  enriched  it  with  that  red  and  yellow \ngorgeousness,  which  converts  each  wildvvood \nleaf  into  a  painted  flower  ;  and  winter  silvered \nit  with  sleet,  and  hung  it  round  with  icicles  till \nit  flashed  in  the  cold  sunshine,  itself  a  frozen \nsunbeam.  Thus  each  alternate  season  did \nhomage  to  the  maypole,  and  paid  it  a  tribute \nof  its  own  richest  splendour.  Its  votaries  danced \nround  it,  once,  at  least,  in  every  month  ;  some- \ntimes they  called  it  their  religion,  or  their  altar  ; \nbut  always,  it  was  the  banner  staff  of  Merry \nMount\" \n\nIn  Quincy,  of  which  Wallaston  is  a  part,  is  a \npleasure-ground  called    Merrymount,  after  the \n\n361 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nhome  of  the  Lord  of  Misrule;  but  to  the \nfictional  rambler  Ouincy's  most  interesting \nlandmark  is  the  historic  Quincy-Butler  man- \nsion, haunted  by  memories  of  the  bewitching \nAgnes  Surriage,  one  of  the  gayest  of  the \nguests  in  a\"  country  excursion  to  Mr.  Ouincy's, \nwhere  the  whole  part)'  with  much  merriment \ntook  part  in  catching  eels  they  were  to  have \ncooked  for  supper  from  the  brook  at  the  bot- \ntom of  the  garden.\"  Like  the  house  the  brook \nis  still  there,  and  beside  it  many  times,  no \ndoubt,  sat  the  celebrated  \"  Dorothy  O.,\"  who \nwas  born  in  the  mansion.  She,  as  all  the  world \nknows,  was  the  great-grandmother  of  the  Auto- \ncrat who,  justly  proud  of  her,  has  added  to \nher  laurels  by  this  poem  dedicated  to  her \nportrait  : \n\nDorothy  Q.  was  a  lady  born  ! \nAy  !  si ncr  the  galloping  Normans  came \nEngland's  annals  have  known  her  name  ; \nAnd  still  to  the  three-hilled  rebel  town \n\nDear  is  that  ancient  name  s  renown  ; \nFor  many  a  civic  wreath  they  won, \n\nThe  youthful  sire  and  the  grey-haired  son. \n362 \n\n\n1=  s \n\n.s \n\nt«  -a \n\n4_,      U \n\n\n363 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nFarther  on  toward  the  Blue  Hills  we  find \nDedham.  \"And  this  (Stimson's  King  Noa- \nnett)  was  the  settlement  they  called  Content- \nment, for  the  Bay  people  were  fond  of  fine \nnames,  taken  from  the  Bible  or  their  books  of \nPsalms.\"  Most  of  this  country  (about  1670) \nwas  then  a  wilderness  and  the  adventures  of \nCarew  and  Courtenay,  in  their  endeavour  to \nmake  a  home,  and  their  encounters  with,  the \nIndians,  make  a  stirring  and  romantic  picture \nof  times  little  known  to  the  fiction  reader  until \nMr.  Stimson  created  King  Noanett. \n\nV.   NAHANT  AND  NANTASKET \n\nOF  the  many  shore  places  about  Boston \none  of  the  most  beautiful  and  exclu- \nsive is  Nahant,  on  the  north  shore, \nan  island  but  for  the  narrow  strip  of  land  that \nconnects  it  with  Lynn.  \"  Cold  roast  Boston,\" \nit  was  named  by  \"  Tom  \"  Appleton,  celebrated \nas  a  wit  of  the  Hub.  \"Tom\"  Appleton  has \nbeen  gathered  to  his  fathers,  but  his  nickname \nstill   clings.      In    Truth    Dexter ;    the    novelist \n\n365 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\ntells  us  that  Craighead  was  most  anxious  to \nsend  his  wife  down  there  when  the  warm \nweather  came  on,  but  \"  Truth  feared  the  pen- \ninsular resort,  having  heard  it  spoken  of  by \nepicures  as  'cold  roast  Boston.'' \n\nIn  this  aristocratic  atmosphere  it  is  natural \n\n\n'.'  At  the  foot  of  the  lawn  was  the  cliff;  and  below,  a  lovely  little \npebble  beach  covered  with  the  most  wonderful  shells.\" — SHmson's \n\"Pirate  Gold\" \n\nto  find  old  Mr.  Bowdoin  (Stimson's  Pirate \nGold)  spending  his  summers,  and  it  is  interest- \ning to  learn  that  these  summers  and  all  the \nhappy  days  in  them  he  made  for  the  children \nare  described  in  the  novel  as  they  actually  oc- \ncurred in  the  life  of  Mr.  Bowdoin's  prototype, \nMr.  Josiah  Bradlee.  Mercedes,  \"who  came \nfrom  the   sea,\"    never  forgot   those    visits    to \n\n366 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nNahant,  when,  as  the  steamer  reached  the \nwharf,  Mr.  Bowdoin  could  be  seen  usually  \"  run- \nning- down  the  hill  as  if  too  late,  his  blue  dress \ncoat  tails  streaming\"  in  the  wind,  his  Panama \nhat  in  one  hand,  and  a  large  brown  paper \nbag,  bursting  with  oranges,  in  the  other.\" \nIn  his  capacious  pockets  the  children  were \nsure  to  find  Salem  \"  Gibraltars,\"  hard  and \nmouth-filling  dainties  calculated  to  fill  in- \nfantile mouths  even  as  they  did  the  hearts \nwith  joy. \n\nWhen  the  little  visitors  arrived  at  the  house \nthey  were  sent  out  to  play  on  \"  a  fascinating \nrocky  island  in  the  sea,  connected  by  a  neck  of \ntwenty  yards  of  pebbles  \"  where  they  made  the \nmost  wonderful  discoveries.  Real  candy \ncrystals,  pink  and  white,  had  been  washed  into \nthe  rocky  crevices  !  Real  bunches  of  hot  house \ngrapes  grew  on  the  low  juniper  bushes  !  Real \npeg  tops  and  beautiful,  rare  shells  were  to  be \nfound  among  the  seaweed  on  the  tiny  beach  ! \nVerily  a  good  fairy  was  that  old  gentleman, \nstretched  in  a  roomy  cane  chair    up    on    the \n\n367 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\npiazza,  in  his  hand  a  spy  glass  with  which  he \npretended  to  scan  the  horizon. \n\nThe  house  on  the  outer  cliff  high  above  the \nsea  where  the  lovable  and  eccentric  old  Mr. \nBowdoin  passed  his  summer  days,  is  still  stand- \ning, and  remains  in  the  possession  of  the  Brad- \nlee  family. \n\nThe  Coreys  (Howells's  The  Rise  of  Silas \nLapliam)  always  had  a  house  at  Nahant,  but \nafter  letting  it  for  a  season  or  two  they  found \nthey  could  get  on  without  it.  The  people  of \nMr.  Howells's  A  Days  Pleasure  had  in  mind \nan  excursion  to  Nahant,  but  they  gave  the \npreference  to  Nantasket  because  they  thought \nit  much  better  to  see  the  ocean  from  a  loner \nbeach,  than  from  the  Nahant  rocks.  Of  all \nthese  splendid  rocks  which  make  the  shore  so \npicturesque,  the  most  imposing  is  Pulpit  at  the \nextreme  point  of  the  estate  of  Mr.  Henry \nCabot  Lodge,  whom  many  persons  persist  in \nproclaiming  the  author  of  that  recent  and \nmuch  discussed  anonymous  Boston  novel \nTruth  Lexter.   Another  Boston  literateur  who \n\n368 \n\n\n3f>9 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nmakes  Nahant  his  summer  home  is  Judge \nRobert  Grant,  as  a  novelist  most  widely  known \nthrough  his  Unleavened  Bread. \n\nThe  poet  Longfellow  was  for  many  years  a \npicturesque  figure  in  the  summer  life  of  Nahant, \nwhere  his  sunset  reveries  were  made  a  \"  re- \nquiem of  the  dying  day  \"  by  the  ringing  of  the \nbells  in  Lynn. \n\nBorne  on  the  evening  wind  across  the  crimson  twilight \nO'er  land  and  sea  they  rise  and  fall,  0  bells  of  Lynn. \n\nIn  a  social  sense  as  widely  separated  from \nNahant  as  are  the  poles  is  Nantasket,  only  a \nfew  miles  away,  and  a  part  of  summer  Boston. \nIn  Mr.  Howells's  A  Day's  Pleasure  the  party \nwent  on  one  of  the  steamers  down  the  harbour \nto  this  Mecca  of  tourists,  but  gave  up  their  ex- \npedition to  the  beach  owing  to  the  sudden  ap- \npearance of  an  east  wind.  \"  While  you  are \nsaying  how  lovely  it  is,  a  subtle  change  is \nwrought,  and  under  skies  still  blue  and  a  sun \nstill  warm  the  keen  spirit  of  the  east  wind \npierces  every  nerve,  and  all  the  fine  weather \nwithin  you  is  chilled  and  extinguished.\" \n\n371 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\n\nThe  Silas  Laphams  spent  many  summers  at \nNantasket,  and  Mr.  Howells  has  given  us  vivid \npictures  of  their  surroundings  and  the  trip \ndown  to  the  beach  on  the  boat  —  a  trip  fami- \nliar to  Bostonians  and  the  summer  tourist  in  the \nHub.  The  fiction  reader  will  find  it  immensely \ndiverting  to  make  this  little  water  journey \ndown  the  harbour  in  the  society  of  Colonel \nLapham  as  young  Corey  so  often  did.  \"He \nhad  time,\"  says  the  author,  \"  to  buy  two  news- \npapers on  the  wharf  before  he  jumped  on  board \nthe  steamboat  with  Corey.  'Just  made  it,'  he \nsaid ;  '  and  that's  what  I  like  to  do.  I  can't \nstand  it  to  be  aboard  much  more  than  a  min- \nute before  she  shoves  out.'  He  gave  one  of \nthe  newspapers  to  Corey  as  he  spoke,  and  set \nhim  the  example  of  catching  up  a  camp  stool \non  their  way  to  that  point  on  the  boat  which \nhis  experience  had  taught  him  was  the  best. \nHe  opened  his  paper  at  once  and  began  to  run \nover  the  news,  while  the  young  man  watched \nthe  spectacular  recession  of  the  city,  and  was \nvaguely    conscious    of  the  people  about  him, \n\n372 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nand  of  the  gay  life  of  the  water  around  the \nboat.  The  air  freshened  ;  the  craft  thinned  in \nnumber  ;  they  met  larger  sail,  lagging  slowly \ninward  in  the  afternoon  light;  the  islands  of \nthe  bay  waxed  and  waned  as  the  steamer  ap- \nproached and  left  them  behind.\"  It  was  al- \nways a  matter  of  astonishment  to  the  Colonel \nwhere  the  great  crowd  of  people  on  the  boat \ncame  from.  \"  I've  been  riding  up  and  down \non  these  boats  for  six  or  seven  years,\"  he  said \nto  Corey,  \"  and  I  don't  know  but  very  few  of \nthe  faces  I  see  on  board.  Seems  to  be  a  per- \nfectly fresh  lot  every  time.  Well,  of  course  ! \nTown's  full  of  strangers  in  the  summer  season, \nanyway,  and  folks  keep  coming  down  from  the \ncountry.  They  think  it's  a  great  thing  to  get \ndown  to  the  beach,  and  they've  all  heard  of \nthe  electric  light  on  the  water,  and  they  want \nto  see  it.\"  The  author  goes  on  to  tell  us  that \nthere  was  little  style  and  no  distinction  among \nthe  crowd.  \"  They  were  people  who  were \nSfoin?  down  to  the  beach  for  the  fun  or  the  re- \nlief  of  it,  and  were  able   to  afford   it.      In  face \n\n373 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nthey  were  commonplace,  with  nothing  but  the \nAmerican  poetry  of  vivid  purpose  to  light  them \nup,  where  they  did  not  wholly  lack  fire.  But \nthe  were  nearly  all  shrewd  and  friendly-look- \ning, with  an  apparent  readiness  for  the  humour- \nous intimacy  native  to  us  all.  The  women \nwere  dandified  in  dress,  according  to  their \nmeans  and  taste,  and  the  men  differed  from \neach  other  in  degrees  of  indifference  to  it.  To \na  straw-hatted  population,  such  as  ours  is  in \nsummer,  no  sort  of  dignity  is  possible.  We \nhave  not  even  the  power  over  observers  which \ncomes  from  the  fantasticality  of  an  English- \nman when  he  discards  the  conventional  dress. \nIn  our  straw  hats  and  our  serge  or  flannel \nsacks  we  are  no  more  imposing  than  a  crowd \nof  boys.\" \n\nFrom  the  pier,  where  the  boat  lands,  it  is \nbut  a  short  drive  up  the  sandy  road  past  the \nhotels  and  restaurants  to  the  colony  of  summer \nhouses,  one  of  which  was  occupied  by  the \nLaphams  —  \"a  brown  cottage  with  a  vermilion \nroof  and  a  group  of  geraniums  clutching  the \n\n374 \n\n\nir-;, \n\n\n>  ;t \n\n•  1 \n\n3 \n\ni    & \n\nr. \n\ns; \n\n^ \n\ni . \n\nZ \n\n1 \n\nt \n\ni \n\n*  1 \n\nZ \n\n•J \n\nJ \n\nTJ \n\n* \n\n■s \n\nj \n\no \n\nL \n\n••.' \n\n^_, \n\n.* \n\nnl \n\n375 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nrock  that    cropped  up   in  the  loop  formed  by \nthe  road.      It  was  treeless  and  bare  all  round, \nand    the    ocean,    unnecessarily  vast,    weltered \naway  a  little  more  than  a  stone's  cast  from  the \ncottage.\"      Here    at  the  Colonel's  solicitation \nyoung   Corey   came    frequently     to   see   \"  the \ngirls,\"  with  whom  he  spent  delightful  evenings \non  the  veranda  in  the  moonlight,  on  the  rocks, \nand  on  the  beach  which  they  were  much  given \nto   frequenting,  though  Penelope   confided   to \nhim  that  they  had  about  exhausted  its  possi- \nbilities.      \"We    have    been     here    so     often \nthat  we   know    it  all    by  heart  — just    how  it \nlooks    at  high  tide,  and  how    it  looks  at  low \ntide,  and  how  it  looks  after  a  storm.     We're  as \nwellacquainted  with  the  crabs  and  stranded  jelly- \nfish as  we  are  with  the  children  digging  in  the \nsand  and  the  people  sitting   under  umbrellas. \nI  think  they're  always   the  same,  all  of  them.\" \nIt  was    the  winsome     Penelope,  it  will  be  re- \nmembered, who  captivated   Corey,   while   the \nfamily_and  Irene,  alas  '.—  thought  it  was  the \nyounger  girl's  beauty  that  attracted  him. \n\n\n377 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       RAMBLES \n\nNantasket  forms  part  of  the  setting  of  Mr. \nStimson's  Pirate  Gold.  At  the  period  of \nwhich  this  novelist  writes  it  was  semi-fashion- \nable and  our  old  friend  Jamie  McMurtagh, \nthe  hero  of  the  novel,  socially  ambitious  for \nhis  little  Mercedes,  felt  that  he  had  achieved \nereat  things  when  he  rented  a  cottage  at  this \ngay  watering-place.  \"To  Jamie  it  was  the \nnext  thing  to  Nahant,  which  was  of  course  out \nof  the  question.  But  the  queer  old  clerk  was \nnot  fitted  to  shine  in  any  society,  and  Merce- \ndes found  it  hard  to  make  her  way  alone. \nThey  wandered  about  the  beach,  and  occa- \nsionally to  the  great  hotel  where  there  was  a \nhop,  of  evenings,  and  listened  to  the  bands ; \nbut  Mercedes'  beauty  was  too  striking  and \nher  manners  were  too  independent  to  inspire \nquick  confidence  in  the  Nantasket  matrons  ; \nwhile  Jamie  missed  his  pipe  and  shirt-sleeves \nafter  supper.\"  Jamie's  only  other  experience \nof  Nantasket  was  once  years  before  when  he \nhad  gone  there  on  a  week's  vacation,  but  the \nouting  could  scarcely  have  enlightened  him  as \n\n373 \n\n\nIN       AND       ABOUT       BOSTON \n\nto  the  attractions  of  the  place,  for  \"  his  princi- \npal diversion  had  been  to  take  the  morning- \nsteamboat  thence  to  the  city,  and  gaze  into \nthe  office  windows  from  the  wharf.\" \n\nMercedes'  isolation,  however,  finally  came \nto  an  end  and  her  and  Jamie's  real  troubles \nbegan  when  she  met  at  the  Rockland  House \nMr.  David  St.  Clair  who  \"  wore  kid  gloves  and \na  high  silk  hat  —  a  white  waistcoat  and  a  very \nblack  moustache.  .  .  His  career  was  shadowy, \nlike  his  hair.  In  those  days  still  a  moustache \nbore  with  it  some  audacity,  and  gave  a  man \nwho  frankly  lived  outside  the  reputable  call- \nings something  of  the  buccaneer.  St.  Clair \ncalled  himself  a  gentleman,  but  did  not  pre- \ntend to  be  a  clerk,  and  frankly  avowed  that  he \nwas  not  in  trade.  Jamie  could  not  make  him \nout  at  all.  He  hoped,  indeed,  he  was  a  gen- \ntleman. Had  he  been  in  the  old  country,  he \ncould  have  credited  it  better  ;  but  gentlemen \nwithout  visible  means  of  support  were,  in  those \ndays,  unusual  in  Boston.\" \n\nTo  end  our  rambles  here  is  to  leave  the  so- \n\n379 \n\n\nFICTIONAL       R  A  M  B  L  E  S \n\nciety  of  a  number  of  interesting  characters, \namonQf  whom  are  old  and  valued  friends  for \nwhose  creation  we  owe  the  novelist  much  ;  the \nmore  that  they  do  not  seem  to  us  fictitious, \nbut  persons  of  flesh  and  blood  who  live  and \nmove  and  have  their  being  in  the  Hub  and,  to \nthe  imaginative,  people  the  streets  of  the  Bos- \nton of  yesterday,  and  the  Boston  of  to-day. \n\n\nTHE    END \n\n\n380 \n\n\nNOV   1(    1902 \n\n\nLIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS \n\n\n•  ll'll  Hill  Hill  || \n\n0  014  065  615  A     I \n\n\n","title":"Fictional Rambles in and about Boston","updated_at":"2026-09-05T09:48:58.351229Z","urn":"urn:lemay:boston:document:fictional-rambles-in-and-about-boston","version":1,"withdrawn_reason":null},"urn":"urn:lemay:boston:document:fictional-rambles-in-and-about-boston","version_history":[{"change_note":"accessioned from the Internet Archive, item fictionalrambles00prina","changed_by":"archive-ingest 0.1.0","recorded_at":"2026-09-05T09:48:58.653031Z","version":1}]}